LS factory cruise control hook up

[68c10airstream]

I should add that the above blue switch is only used for accel/set and decal/coast. You still need an on/off switch as a redundant means to turn it off. I added cruise to my throttle by cable 2001 5.3 ls and the only trouble I had was my cruise box gets 2 power sources, one from the brake switch and one from a fused circuit. My turn signal lever just has a set button and the switch had some dust inside it and was not getting a strong voltage signal when pressed, so my cruise wouldn't set. I ended up running a relay that was turned on by the lever set button, problem cured.

[XwalkerX]

so some of the 99-02 Silverado cruise modules I see on ebay have a wire in the H terminal.

would this work for my application and if so how do I wire it up since you don't mention it in the original post?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-00-01-02-...ZWqq~x&vxp=mtr

[XwalkerX]

thanks guys!

just bought this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111924522110...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

now need to order my brake light switch and a momentary switch (already have a spare on/off toggle)

hopefully everything goes smooth...(knock on wood)

[XwalkerX]

Nova I'm really hoping you can help me here.

I've got everything hooked up correctly BUT I'm getting bleed off from.the cruise box to the G- wire so the cruise won't engage because it's getting 9/10 volts as if the brake pedal is getting pressed.

Any idea why this is happening?

I tested with key on and the plug at the box unplugged only F and K wires are getting voltage.

However when I plug it back into the cruise module it bleeds off into the G wire. So is the box shot? Is there a way to fix this?

This is the last piece of the puzzle everything else is hooked up properly. Hopefully you/anyone can help
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[ls1nova71]

Not 100% following you. how do you know you're getting "bleed off" to the G wire? Also, with the plug unplugged and the key ON and foot off the brake pedal, you should only have power at F and D, not K. Are you sure everything is wired up correctly?

[XwalkerX]

ok so this is how i have everything hooked up

A- 1 side of on/off toggle switch
B- 1 side of off-(on)-off momentary toggle switch
C- 1 side of off-(on)-off momentary toggle switch
D- 1 side of brake switch (12v key on but 0v pedal depressed)
E- Ground
F- 12v power supply to module with key on that runs through an inline fuse to the other side of on/off toggle (then the power pulled from toggle switch goes to middle of momentary)
G- supposed to go to other leads from brake light switch that only sends 12v when the pedal is pressed (currently this wire is reading 9/10v while not even hooked up to the leads from the brake switch)
H- n/a
J- n/a
K- bridged into wire at pin 50 on pcm


so if i take a reading at the plug with cruise plug unplugged from the box but key on i see 12v to pin F and roughly 9v to pin K (which i assumed was correct for the VSS reading but perhaps its not) and no other pins produce power.

however when i plug the connector back into the cruise module pin G produces 9/10v roughly along with those other two pins i mentioned (F+K) and since the other end of the G wire is not hooked up to anything its clearly being energized somehow from the box.

i hope that makes sense?

[ls1nova71]

Most of that sounds right, but pin K is the speed signal, I don't believe you should be getting any power on it with the vehicle standing still.

Also, you say G isn't hooked up to the brake light switch? Are you reading power on that wire? You will need to hook that wire up for it to work, The module needs to see a ground through this wire on start up as a brake switch test, if it doesn't see it, it won't work, Same reason you can't use LED taillights, they don't have enough resistance for it to pass the test.

[XwalkerX]

ok ill try disconnecting the wire for pin K and ill see if that changes the bleed off im getting on pin G

and yeah currently i dont have it hooked up to anything but if the cruise module has the plug in it and i turn the key on for some reason the wire from pin G is getting approx 10v being sent to it.

also. i did just verify that pin D is getting 12v with the key on.


EDIT:

just disconnected the wire for pin K at the tie in which i thought was the VSS (pin 50 on PCM) and turned the key on to check voltage and that wire (again, not hooked up to anything) is getting 5v and i just double checked if it had any effect on the wire for pin G and it does not. pin G is still somehow seeing 10v...?


is it possible that this module is wired differently from the way you have it on your diagram?
this is the exact cruise module i bought

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111924522110...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[ls1nova71]

Hook up ALL the wires and try it. Just hooking up some and then trying to figure out a problem is going to get you nowhere, you'll be chasing your tail at a problem that may not exist. I have never checked the wires with some unhooked so I cant say for sure what is going on, but I suspect youre getting feed back from something not being hooked up. You NEED that brake light wire hooked up for it to work. And no, there's no chance it would be wired up any other way than the diagram if you are using a truck module.

Hook up all the wires and let me know what happens.

[XwalkerX]

just hooked up all the wires again and with the key on im still getting a reading of 7v at the wire for pin G where it connects to the brake lamps. this is causing not only a noticeable draw on the battery via my voltmeter but also causing a very faint brake light to be on all the time.

still with key on and taking readings at the module with the connector plugged into it im getting these readings

a- 0v (toggle switch is in the off position)
b- 0v
c- 0v
d- 12v
e- 0v
f- 12v
g- 10v
h- n/a
j- 0v
k- 9v

[XwalkerX]

also id like to test the VSS output wire. mine is a black wire but its the only wire on either connectors at pin 50. my truck does have a custom harness on it but I would think the PCM still needs the wires in the factory position.

anyway since I cant find an answer via google...what should the VSS output wire read with the key on? should it read differently with the engine actually running? I understand it will send a pulse signal *while driving* but im not sure if there should be any voltage on this wire otherwise.

[ls1nova71]

I don't think you'll get any voltage on the VSS wire with the key on or just idling, pretty sure you need to be moving and it will be an AC voltage. This evening I will unplug my cruise module on my truck and test them to see what they are supposed to be and then we can compare the readings.

[XwalkerX]

thanks man

this has really stumped me

and again I only get these strange power bleeds when the connector is plugged into the cruise module itself with key on which is why I was questioning if its actually working correctly. the seller claimed it was working good prior to removal?

[ls1nova71]

Ok, I just checked two of my cars and they are both the same as yours. I get 9.8v on the VSS wire, so that must be normal. I also get 9.5v on the G wire with the module plugged in and that wire not hooked up. I checked it by unplugging the module then plugging in another pigtail and running the wires from it to the original plug, that way I didn't have to cut anything. Pay no attention to the colors, the second plug is actually a TAC module plug as they're the same plug and it's all I had.

You say you are getting very faint brake lights? Are you using LEDs?

[XwalkerX]

not using LED's but I do notice faint brake lights and also notice a draw on my voltmeter when I hook the g-wire up to the brake switch.

[XwalkerX]

I mean thinking about this it would make sense that my brake lights are illuminating because im sending 9-10v to that wire which should only become hot with 12v (turning on the lights) when the pedal is depressed.

would adding a relay here help cure this? similar to what people have to do with LED tails?

[XwalkerX]

Nova What's your voltage reading where the G wire ties into the brake switch wire? Do you also show 9/10v there?
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[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by XwalkerX

not using LED's but I do notice faint brake lights and also notice a draw on my voltmeter when I hook the g-wire up to the brake switch.

I don't know why it does this, but mine do it too. I'm a mechanic, not an electrical engineer by any stretch. I can usually get things to work the way they are designed to work, but don't always know why they work the way they do.

Originally Posted by XwalkerX

I mean thinking about this it would make sense that my brake lights are illuminating because im sending 9-10v to that wire which should only become hot with 12v (turning on the lights) when the pedal is depressed.

would adding a relay here help cure this? similar to what people have to do with LED tails?

You would think my brake lights would be on too, but they aren't. I do know modules can do some weird things, but if you were sending 9-10v to the brake lights, you'd see more than a faint glow, they would be obvious that they were on. I would think even 7v would be pretty obvious. Adding a relay won't do a thing for it.

Originally Posted by XwalkerX

Nova What's your voltage reading where the G wire ties into the brake switch wire? Do you also show 9/10v there?
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I only measured it where I had the extra pigtail hooked to the original one, but since that wire only goes straight to the switch, it has to have 9.5v there since there's pretty much no way you'll get very much voltage drop from a 6 foot long wire.

What is this going in? And how are you testing it? Actually driving it?

[XwalkerX]

the basics from my swap are

L33 5.3
earlier 2wd 4L60e
99-02 PCM
99-02 Cable TB
prevatt harness
dakota digital speedo drive
dakota digital tach signal converter
old air a/c







the truck drives just fine.

im testing it every which way i can with a multimeter.
i tested all the leads with the key on and the key off
im testing voltage at the connector when its unplugged from the cruise module
im testing voltage at the connector when its plugged into the cruise module
im testing the wire tie in points with the connector plugged in and unplugged
etc etc.

i think im going borderline insane because i cant figure this out...

[ls1nova71]

Nice looking truck! What I meant though, was are you checking the function of the cruise by driving it? Or is it in a garage on jack stands?

[XwalkerX]

well i take it for a spin around the block and get up to 40mph then try to engage the cruise.

i turn on the power toggle then hit the momentary for the set function but it doesnt engage -____-

[ls1nova71]

Did you try hitting the resume side of the switch just in case you have them backwards?

[XwalkerX]

yeah tried both ways.

even tried with the power toggle in on and off positions

[ls1nova71]

Ok, just wanted to check. So you are using a GM brake light switch with the two sets of contacts, correct? What you might try now is adjusting the brake light switch in a little bit. Sometimes the two sets of contacts in them will be off a bit and although the brake lights may not be on with the pedal released, the other two contacts may not be closed. Adjusting it in so you have to press the pedal a little farther to make the brake lights come on might help.

[ls1nova71]

If that doesn't help, then unplug the connector and test pins E and D. Put the ground probe of the multimeter on pin E and the positive on pin D and make sure there's 12v. If you do have 12v, then while still checking those two pins, have someone press the brake pedal and see if it goes to 0v.