No Limit Trailing Arm Rear Suspension

[Cbo]

Originally Posted by SMKN TA 95

I have recently bought the No Limit Trailing arm setup for my truck project, and also picked up the ECE/brothers/etc trailing arm cross member too. I am having some steel bushings made to fit No-Limit's trailing arm setup. All thats needed is a lathe, and some material to make some simple steel bushings to take up the gap due to the smaller width of the monster balls versus stock trailing arm bushings.

I also have a Porterbuilt cross member on order to see which one I like better as far as fitment and exhaust pass through.

Let us know how your install goes!

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by SMKN TA 95

I have recently bought the No Limit Trailing arm setup for my truck project, and also picked up the ECE/brothers/etc trailing arm cross member too. I am having some steel bushings made to fit No-Limit's trailing arm setup. All thats needed is a lathe, and some material to make some simple steel bushings to take up the gap due to the smaller width of the monster balls versus stock trailing arm bushings.

I also have a Porterbuilt cross member on order to see which one I like better as far as fitment and exhaust pass through.

I was thinking the same thing. What's the dims on your bushings?

[Rickjz]

A question for Rob. I purchased the trailing arm kit for my 71 Blazer.

1: In your installation photos, you show two pan-hard bars connected to the bracket. Are there two?

2: The front trailing arm mount has two holes for the arm to attach. Which one do I use?

3: Should I remove the stock shock brackets from the frame?

Thanks

[Rickjz]

I think I have figured out question number one after going over the previous posts.

[effects66]

Originally Posted by SMKN TA 95

I have recently bought the No Limit Trailing arm setup for my truck project, and also picked up the ECE/brothers/etc trailing arm cross member too. I am having some steel bushings made to fit No-Limit's trailing arm setup. All thats needed is a lathe, and some material to make some simple steel bushings to take up the gap due to the smaller width of the monster balls versus stock trailing arm bushings.

I also have a Porterbuilt cross member on order to see which one I like better as far as fitment and exhaust pass through.

Would like to know how the fitment is with the porterbuilt cross member. I currently have the PB crossmember now and was thinking of getting the training arm kit from no limit.

[robnolimit]

Thanks for the help Scoti

[Coldshot]

Sort of a weird project that I'd like to know if this could be made to work with.
I'm swapping my 51' Chevy body onto a 01' Silverado/sierra frame. I need to shorten the wheel base about 17" and want to ditch the leafs.
If I was to get the PB crossmember and your kit, would I run into any frame width issues you think?

I'm open to any other options you have as well. I saw you have a kit for the stock frame for my truck as well on your site. Would that be better?

Thanks
Posted via Mobile Device

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Coldshot

Sort of a weird project that I'd like to know if this could be made to work with.
I'm swapping my 51' Chevy body onto a 01' Silverado/sierra frame. I need to shorten the wheel base about 17" and want to ditch the leafs.
If I was to get the PB crossmember and your kit, would I run into any frame width issues you think?

I'm open to any other options you have as well. I saw you have a kit for the stock frame for my truck as well on your site. Would that be better?

Thanks
Posted via Mobile Device

Well, I won't say that this 'can't' be done, but I'm not sure I would advise this as a good idea. You could install a PB crossmember, but the front trailing arm mounts would need to be swapped for ours, not sure that is as easy as it sounds. And, that is the easy part. The rail shape of the '01 is not really conducive to the trailing arm suspension. More than that, I need to point out that a bigger concern may be width. The 47-54 Chevy's need a WMS (wheel mount surface) width of appx 58 1/2" to set down and fit a normal spaced wheel. The '01 WMS is close to 65" - I don't know for sure, that's web data, as I don't work on them, - you should measure. But this extra width will push the wheels outside the wheel openings and not let the truck sit down. If you want it 'up' that's OK, I guess. So you have this 01 chassis, which gives you front and rear suspension, rear axle, and eng/trans. Now, you have to shorten the frame, you want to change the rear suspension, the rear axle is too wide, and so is the front suspension, Also, I will take a guess that you will want to lower the front at some point. If your OE 3100 chassis is in good shape, start there. the body will fit correctly, and modifying the front/rear suspension will be easier. Just my $.02, Good Luck.

[Coldshot]

Thanks
The width is something I wanted. I know this is the reason people stay away from these frames but I'm planning to radius the fenders for clearance. Seen one truck with it done and I like the look.
I don't have the original chassis and the other reason I'm doing it this way is to use the wiring from the sierra to transplant into the other truck.

I can't shorten the frame as there's not enough from under the cab to shorten what needs to be taken out. I've thought about 4 link and 3 link setups as well but I've been threw your make it handle thread a few times and like this style.

So if I were to just use your kit for the 47-54, besides track width, would it be close enough to work with. The part I'm thinking is going to be an issue would be the coilover mounts.

Thanks again.

Once again if you have something else that would be simpler I'm open to it.
Posted via Mobile Device

[SMKN TA 95]

Mỹ project is going together, and got spacers made to run the No Limit Trailing arms with the Porterbuilt Boxed inner stiffener. These are made out of steel plate on a CNC machine.

[SCOTI]

Nicely done.

[aboyer]

Originally Posted by SMKN TA 95

Mỹ project is going together, and got spacers made to run the No Limit Trailing arms with the Porterbuilt Boxed inner stiffener. These are made out of steel plate on a CNC machine.

Hey SMKN TA95,

Would you be willing to post where you had these made or information about them. I will we willing to buy two of these for my future build.

[effects66]

Originally Posted by aboyer

Hey SMKN TA95,

Would you be willing to post where you had these made or information about them. I will we willing to buy two of these for my future build.

I second that. I have just installed the porter built crossmember and was thinking is upgrading to the no limit trailing arm kit

[aboyer]

Originally Posted by aboyer

Hey SMKN TA95,

Would you be willing to post where you had these made or information about them. I will we willing to buy two of these for my future build.

I think there are a few people that would be interested in these. Let us know if there are any specs or information out there for these bushings/spacers.

[luckeeD0g]

So, what is the load carrying capacity of the coil-overs? I'd like to still carry stuff in my truck. Maybe a couple of dirt bikes, engines and/or transmissions for other project vehicles. Can I carry up to 1000 lbs using the complete No Limit trailing arm system with coil-overs?

[implanenuts]

So in one of the posts it sounds like you cannot use original drum brakes due to parking brake cable routing issues. Is that correct or did I miss something? Being bolt on is great but if I then have to swap to disk brakes that would make me second guess.

[Jrainman]

Originally Posted by implanenuts

So in one of the posts it sounds like you cannot use original drum brakes due to parking brake cable routing issues. Is that correct or did I miss something? Being bolt on is great but if I then have to swap to disk brakes that would make me second guess.

No you can use OEM drum brakes with this kit, what was asked was why is there was no bracket ( Tab) to hold the parking brake cable to the No Limit trailing arm so the cable can be routed along the trailing arm Like the OEM trailing arm ,

[implanenuts]

Ok, I thought one of the post's mentioned that the coil-over was in the way of the cable routing.

[robnolimit]

the single shear mounting was done for a couple of reasons. 1. we wanted the bearing centerline to be on the motion line. 2. Ease of installation. It takes about 80,000 lb load to shear a 5/8" grade 8 bolt. With the support sleeve the rate goes up. So, with an average of 750 lbs per side, it would take a 10G hit to hurt the bolt. Honestly, if you somehow create a 10G load impact while driving a C10, you have a LOT bigger problems that any suspension mount.
As to mounting angle, at ride height it is close to 15*. this lessens the spring and shock rate by appx 7%. So, a 250 lb spring becomes 232.5 lb/in. Hmm, x 3 1/2" of static compression = 813 lbs load rate. Compared with 650 lbs of sprung weight per side, x 125% ratio on the trailing arm = 812.5 lbs static load. That's how we do it. Math baby!

[SCOTI]

Thank you sir.

[legends]

Rob, I recently purchased this kit as well as your C-Notch KIT. First let me say they are very nice pieces! I'm having one issue, Basically my truck was a leaf spring frame. What reference points should I use for the C-Notch and shock mounts? The leaf spring frame does not have the bump stop rivets or some of the other rivets you list to use as reference points. I'm thinking if you can give me a measurement from the rear of the frame rail to the center of the shock mount, or the axle tube center line to the center of the shock mount that would be enough to get me started.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by legends

Rob, I recently purchased this kit as well as your C-Notch KIT. First let me say they are very nice pieces! I'm having one issue, Basically my truck was a leaf spring frame. What reference points should I use for the C-Notch and shock mounts? The leaf spring frame does not have the bump stop rivets or some of the other rivets you list to use as reference points. I'm thinking if you can give me a measurement from the rear of the frame rail to the center of the shock mount, or the axle tube center line to the center of the shock mount that would be enough to get me started.

I wondered about this. I had a swb leaf frame & a coil frame in my possession once upon a time & couldn't remember the bump stops being the same for both. Reference numbers from the frame rail ends & the other way (from the T/A x-member) should help w/accuracy.

[chevy72blu]

Originally Posted by legends

Rob, I recently purchased this kit as well as your C-Notch KIT. First let me say they are very nice pieces! I'm having one issue, Basically my truck was a leaf spring frame. What reference points should I use for the C-Notch and shock mounts? The leaf spring frame does not have the bump stop rivets or some of the other rivets you list to use as reference points. I'm thinking if you can give me a measurement from the rear of the frame rail to the center of the shock mount, or the axle tube center line to the center of the shock mount that would be enough to get me started.

Interested in this as well. I read through the whole thread and I'm surprised to see no other mention of using this kit to convert from leafs to trailing arms.

Obviously the spring perches will need to be cut off and re-welded, but I have a dumb question... Does my GM 12 bolt rear need to be trailing arm specific (ie: Panhard bar mount)? I believe the rear is out of a 73-87. Truck is a 72 with a shortened frame (SWB conversion) which will no doubt make things interesting .

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by chevy72blu

Interested in this as well. I read through the whole thread and I'm surprised to see no other mention of using this kit to convert from leafs to trailing arms.

Obviously the spring perches will need to be cut off and re-welded, but I have a dumb question... Does my GM 12 bolt rear need to be trailing arm specific (ie: Panhard bar mount)? I believe the rear is out of a 73-87. Truck is a 72 with a shortened frame (SWB conversion) which will no doubt make things interesting .

OE set-ups have short bars w/the PHB mount on the housing. The better 'long' aftermarket set-ups like this one move the mount to the Pass side truck arm @ the back.

[legends]

Just a quick update, Rob provided me with several drawings which provided all the necessary measurements I need to install the C-notch and Trailing arm kit. I hope to continue the installation this weekend.