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Old 09-30-2003, 01:16 PM   #1
COBALT
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Custom Kickdown for TH400...

Here's one for people who don't know what to do for a kickdown switch when they've either lost their old one, don't have one at all, or are converting from a 2bbl setup with a switch that no longer works for a 4bbl setup (like me!).

Lokar makes a nice looking (of course expensive around $80), and very reliable cable driven, actuating electrical switch (see first pic), that can connect to your carburetor via the universal throttle cable bracket also from Lokar (see second pic).

The switch either mounts to your transmission pan, or in the case where you don't have a flat pan flange like me you can actually mount it to the frame next to the transmission (there are two bolt holes in the frame that are PERFECT for the switch on the driver's side inside the frame channel).

Simply mount the cable arm to the carburetor linkage, run the braided cable housing down past the motor via some clips or something, and mount the switch down by the transmission. Run your 12v source to one side of the switch (inside the billet aluminum box), and your neutral end of the switch to the detent terminal on the outside of the transmission (driver's side).

Then, adjust the stop on the end of the cable near the carb throttle linkage so the switch closes on or near WOT (you can actually hear the switch "click" if you pull on the cable by hand). Here's the switch:
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual
'99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe
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Old 09-30-2003, 01:19 PM   #2
COBALT
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...and here's the throttle bracket, and return springs the switch hooks to.
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual
'99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe
Seattle, WA.
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Old 09-30-2003, 01:21 PM   #3
COBALT
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This solves a lot of problems at once:

1. How to set up the return springs.
2. How to get a kickdown switch connected.
3. How to have options for throttle actuation (do I use the rod, or adapt a cable...or what???).

This gives you options you didn't have before with the stock throttle rod and the carburetor linkage, and no where to put the return springs unless you wanted to stick them on the thermostat housing (which sucks and looks ugly).

Here's what it looks like with everything set up. For the throttle arm connection to the carburetor check out this thread.
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual
'99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe
Seattle, WA.
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Old 10-03-2003, 01:42 PM   #4
COBALT
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lol yeah no kidding.

For me it boiled down to this: How much time was I going to spend fabbing up something, or trying to find a stock kickdown replacement I could somehow use vs. just laying down the funds and hooking the damn thing up?

I opted to save time and spend money. Looks good too.
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual
'99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe
Seattle, WA.
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Old 12-06-2005, 10:46 PM   #5
76bonanza
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Re: Custom Kickdown for TH400...

hey cobalt in that pic looks like you have it set kind of low seems it would activate way before WOT?
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Old 12-09-2005, 03:03 AM   #6
COBALT
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Re: Custom Kickdown for TH400...

Nope. It kicks down right before.
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual
'99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe
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