Plasti Dipped the '67

[prairewolf]

... What did you do for surface prep before putting the Plasti Dip on. ... I know with paint that everything has to be right or it is not good. ... maybe dip is a lot more forgiving prep wise. ............ I have a 2 wheel trailer I may do/experiment with ........time will tell....... thanks,kent

... p.s ...my last an only vehicle paint project I did/helped with was my GTO, in highschool shop class 30+ yrs ago, ...and a classmate with a steadier hand than me sprayed it.......time flys

[swamp rat]

Subscribed! New to me.

[bigwheel15]

Looks great but I always worry about the one guy who decides to be funny and pull a nice sized spot off.

[Step'67]

Originally Posted by low&slow

Very cool. I've read a lot about plasti-dip but never would have guessed painters out here in Idaho will actually be willing to use that stuff. Neat to see you in Nampa. Where did you go to get it done?

Hey, a fellow Idahoan! I actually painted it myself, was my first adventure in painting a vehicle. Converted 2 bays of my garage into a paint booth, worked out pretty well.

Originally Posted by prairewolf

... What did you do for surface prep before putting the Plasti Dip on. ... I know with paint that everything has to be right or it is not good. ... maybe dip is a lot more forgiving prep wise. ............ I have a 2 wheel trailer I may do/experiment with ........time will tell....... thanks,kent

... p.s ...my last an only vehicle paint project I did/helped with was my GTO, in highschool shop class 30+ yrs ago, ...and a classmate with a steadier hand than me sprayed it.......time flys

Prep was very simple. Do all of your obvious body work, sanding, smoothing, etc. I choose to wet sand the whole truck before paint to ensure no scratches and give the Dip a bit less tooth to grab onto in the event I didn't like it and wanted it off. Note: Dip does do an excellent job of filling in minor imperfections. After that, I washed it a couple of times with plain dish soap, then wiped it all down with an isopropyl alcohol/water mix. Then tack cloth, etc etc...
Crazy how times have changed, I was always the kid my friends would come to for help on their rides, except now they're mostly Hondas instead of American muscle... Oh well...

Originally Posted by bigwheel15

Looks great but I always worry about the one guy who decides to be funny and pull a nice sized spot off.

Don't you just love people? That honestly did cross my mind, but even up close you can't tell it's Dip, or a "wrap job". Looks just like any standard paint, so hopefully they'll leave it alone.

Originally Posted by Evaded

Dip is great... Both mine... the red still needed two more coats to complete at this point. Its durable, washable and looks cool. You can buy the expensive kits for other colors, or just buy rattle cans and spray yourself. You need to really know what your doing with rattle cans, my black Subie was complete and awesome! Black coupe is green underneath and red sedan was red..

BTW four door Subie has white dipped wheels as well...

Total cost per car with paper, tape and 20 cans of dip under $175

Eric (Evaded)

Yah I definitely would'nt reccomend rattle cans to anyone starting out, pretty hard to get it to look right. Looks great!

[sboris]

Interesting. Something I might consider on a low budget ride.

[Step'67]

Another thing it's good for is for those whose trucks are primered, maybe body work done, even ready for paint, but they just aren't ready/can't paint it quite yet. This is a great way to get a top coat on everything, seal out the elements so the primer doesn't absorb water, and still have it look awesome.

['69C-10]

Looks great! I've done 5-6 sets of wheels but haven't worked up to doing the C-10 yet. Did you do your door jams, etc.?

[Step'67]

Thanks! I didn't actually. I was on a tight deadline trying to get it done before a show and didn't have time to do so. But all the jambs are flat black, and I like the contrast when you open the door, so will probably leave it that way for a while.

[sambudo]

Originally Posted by '69C-10

Looks great! I've done 5-6 sets of wheels but haven't worked up to doing the C-10 yet. Did you do your door jams, etc.?

Tell me on the wheels did you paint the whole wheel? Also rid you clear coat them when finished?

[ksshane]

This is what I was thinking about doing, but not sure what to do about the inside of the bed. It seems durable enough for going down the road, but I doubt you can use it in the bed if you plan to haul anything.

If I can figure out what to do about the bed I might be sold

Originally Posted by Step'67

Another thing it's good for is for those whose trucks are primered, maybe body work done, even ready for paint, but they just aren't ready/can't paint it quite yet. This is a great way to get a top coat on everything, seal out the elements so the primer doesn't absorb water, and still have it look awesome.

[Step'67]

Yah that is one drawback, you'd have to be careful if you sprayed the inner bed. Depending on what you put back there, it might not hold up to well. What I did was mask off the inside of the bed, right on the line where the bed rails take a 90 and turn into the bed walls. Then when I sprayed, I feathered the edge so despite Plasti Dip's slight thickness, it's nice and smooth. Then you could go back (or do it in the first place) and paint it even temporarily. My inner bed is black and the contrast with the silver looks pretty good so I left the bed for now, at least until I get to replacing the wood.

[Prematuregrey]

How well does it do with heat? In Texas, it gets HOT for long periods of time and I'm wondering if this stuff will hold up over time or loose its adhesion after 30 days of 100+ and 100% humidity. Does the engine heat on the hood affect it much or discolor it? Would it hold up well in the inner fenders? I've been planning on rubberizing or bed lining the inner fenders of my truck but this stuff appears to be less expensive.

The truck looks great though. And thank you for the informative write up.

[Step'67]

This past summer in Idaho has been one of the hottest in quite a while, breaking 100 easily. I have had no problems at all in the heat. There are guys who paint their exhaust tips with this stuff so it's pretty heat resistant. Hood looks great, in fact the rest of the vehicle looks just like the day I painted it. No fading, no discoloration, nothing. Temperature within reason doesn't seem to touch it.

I probably wouldn't use it for the underside of the inner fenders. While it may hold up just fine, that is a lot of abuse. Keep in mind this stuff is designed to be removable, so it doesn't dry rock hard, and therefore is susceptible to tearing. I would probably stick to at least under body coating for the inner fenders.

[Haggis]

I'm actually doing the same on my truck, as a temporary paint job until I can tackle the bodywork. The stuff is awesome, really easy, cheap and holds up really well. As some have said it dries to a rubbery type finish so it holds up really well to dirt and debris. As long as your surface is nice, clean and smooth underneath it will be smooth on top.

As far as heat goes, a lot of the import guys use it for engine covers if that give you an idea of what it can take. Their website claims up to 200 degrees of heat resistance.

Another note, you can use regular paint over the top and it will peel off with the plastidip should you change your mind.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by Haggis

I'm actually doing the same on my truck, as a temporary paint job until I can tackle the bodywork. The stuff is awesome, really easy, cheap and holds up really well. As some have said it dries to a rubbery type finish so it holds up really well to dirt and debris. As long as your surface is nice, clean and smooth underneath it will be smooth on top.

As far as heat goes, a lot of the import guys use it for engine covers if that give you an idea of what it can take. Their website claims up to 200 degrees of heat resistance.

Another note, you can use regular paint over the top and it will peel off with the plastidip should you change your mind.

Haggis:

Give me a holler when you do this or if you already have. I would be interested in seeing the results first hand; if you'd be cool with that.

Mahalo!

[Step'67]

Plasti Dip is definitely versatile and can be used just about anywhere in an automotive application. I can't speak to the top coating of Plasti Dip with paint, but I do know applying a standard automotive (or rattle can) clear coat over top of it does make it nearly impossible to remove the Dip should you so choose, so I would personally recommend against clearing it with anything other than a Plasti Dip gloss clear coat (or satin).

[CBrown680]

I have seen some the videos on You Tube and they make it look fairly simple. I am sure it has some really cool applications, might try it on my wheels, and the underside of the hood, and maybe the interior. The possibilites are endless.

[az's1971C10]

Thanks for reminding me of plasti dip. I just started sanding my C10, or should I say my daughters C10. It has a crappy paint job and I was planning on doing the truck a little at a time due to time and money. It will be a high school truck so I don't want to put a nice paint job on it for HS parking lot abuse. I think this might be my best option until the truck comes back to me full time.

For those of you who start plasti dipping your C10's please post your pics.

[Evaded]

Heat is not an issue with dip... im in San Antonio TX and have had zero issues with dip. Ive been using dip for the last 5 years. We have months of 100 degree weather here.

Eric (Evaded)

[swamp rat]

First thing that comes to mind for where i live would be getting door dings, guess it would depend on the angle of the hit as to if it would dent or tear?

[Step'67]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

First thing that comes to mind for where i live would be getting door dings, guess it would depend on the angle of the hit as to if it would dent or tear?

I haven't had any issues with it getting torn. This stuff is pretty tough, and as long as whatever hits it doesn't have a sharp edge, it wont cut. It takes quite a bit of force to cut, let alone actually tear Dip from the underlying surface. I do have one door ding that I noticed shortly after painting it, and the only reason I can see it is because the line is a slightly lighter color than the surrounding paint. You really have to look for it to see it though.

[american revolution]

can you spray a clear over a patina original paint truck to keep that original patina look. will it protect it?

[Haggis]

Originally Posted by Jahloha

Haggis:

Give me a holler when you do this or if you already have. I would be interested in seeing the results first hand; if you'd be cool with that.

Mahalo!

I've already started. Just been working on the roof so far, got about 3 coats on. I'm only using the spray cans from Home Depot, so its not the best way to do it, but cheapest. I also did very little prep other than cleaning it because this is only meant to be short term paint job, hence why it looks a bit uneven and you can see filler cracks (which i didn't do, I found then while sanding down the rough spots in the paint). So far I'm 4 cans on the roof alone, roughly $25, I'll need one more to finish it off, then a lot more for the body but this is the cheap way to do it.

Originally Posted by american revolution

can you spray a clear over a patina original paint truck to keep that original patina look. will it protect it?

Oh yes. They make a clear version of the plastidip. A lot of people use this in place of a clear bra for the front of the car to protect from chips. Now its not a permanent solution, but it should protect for 2-3 years no problem.


I also want to note, some paint shops have added plasitdip to their available services for very reasonable pricing. We have a couple places here in SLC that will do a full car for around $500 depending on size and color, just striping for $150 and they can even custom tint it for you.

[ahsom79vette]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

First thing that comes to mind for where i live would be getting door dings, guess it would depend on the angle of the hit as to if it would dent or tear?

DYC has videos on *Tube showing how to repair any spots that may for some reason get damaged. I think you basically just remove a patch, with some solvent, and then respray that area. Again, search their forum.

[Step'67]

Originally Posted by az's1971C10

The color is gunmetal grey. The first pic might make it look like two colors one being darker than the other. All it is is the lighting. The second pic is an up close photo so I could show the texture. Both were taken with an Ipad 2. In fact this is the first time I have posted pics because I couldn't figure it out before. I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer!!

There are no streaks or zebra stripes. I actually took my time and waited 20 minutes between each coat. I should have warmed the spray cans first though.

Anyway, a co-worker has agreed to let me barrow his gravity paint gun. When I get that I will order the paint. His stepfather is a professional body man / painter and I have been told by several people he is one of the best old school guys in the area. And he and the owner of the shop he works at are super nice guys who have answered many of my questions. I will post my pics when I finally paint the rig. Thanks again for your help 67.


Cheers
Az

That's awesome, gunmetal looks good on just about anything. Definitely an HVLP gravity feed is the way to go. Definitely post pics, anytime.

Originally Posted by dan468

is this color possible?

Absolutly. Looks to be black Dip coated with a Glossifier/Clear mixture to get that satin finish. There are many different ways to achieve that sheen, check out their forum for more info.

Originally Posted by long'n low

I wonder how long you can leave it in your gun?? can you make a batch up and shoot one coat at a time or do you have to mix it up per coat??

Be nice if you could shoot it onto a some scrap and adjust the mix until you get the sheen/color you want

This stuff doesn't dry via a catalyzed reaction, it dries by evaporation of the thinner. So yes, you can leave it at least in a paint bucket for a long time as long as it is sealed. I don't know about the gun, probably not the best airtight seal. However, yes, you can store it in an air tight container. When I did mine I just mixed two gallons at a time in a big 5 gallon bucket, but you can mix it all at once if wanted. I did it this way though to ensure proper distribution of my pigment throughout the Dip.

Originally Posted by ahsom79vette

Nice job Step'67.

I was looking into this several months ago for my Chevy Cobalt, and maybe my '71. Only problem is if you live in CALIFORNIA, Dip Your Car cannot ship any of the Dip. It's CA regulations...

I know that DYC is doing all they can to help with this, and maybe soon we can purchase this here. I've seen a few paint shops that will dip cars in So. Cal., maybe some could be purchased through them?

Better Yet, going out-of-state for the holidays? Get some shipped to your non-California relatives and then pick it up from them...

Thanks bud. Good old California restrictions. Yah, if you want to do it yourself, I would at least approach a shop who sprays them. The worst they can say is no. That's the way to do it, family comes in handy sometimes.