Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by ncoonen

I am looking for some direction on how to find the correct disk/drum manual brake master cylinder for my '63 C10. I plan to keep my stock crossmember and use McGauphy's stock height spindles and front disk brake kit or similar components. Everywhere I look I see power brake masters for front disks but I would prefer the cleaner look under-hood of a manual master cylinder with the appropriate proportioning valve, if needed.

There is a wealth of excellent brake-related information on this forum but I haven't been able find this answer.

Thanks!...ned.

I got mine from Tim Tygerts obsolete chevy parts....mc for disk/drum non power was around $75 w/prop valve

[ncoonen]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

I got mine from Tim Tygerts obsolete chevy parts....mc for disk/drum non power was around $75 w/prop valve

Thanks for the source! Tygarts has a lot of interesting parts. I just checked and the MC looks like it is $146 now

Until I sort out which direction I am going (changes frequently), I going to install a Cardone reman drum/drum dual-circuit master and live with my drums for a while. Captainfab has good points and a ton more experience with this so I may take his advice and start looking for a donor truck or 'burban next spring. If I can make space, Stripping a rusted or wrecked early '80s C10 with a 350 would create a lot of opportunities to fix my perfectly good, not-broken '63 C10 by adding old, used-up parts of unknown history. I've been down that road before so I know it's going to be a blast!

Thanks all...ned.

[Pflugerman]

Someone is selling a crossmember 71 with discs. I hear it bolts right up to my 69. I have a brake booster from a parts 69 to go on. Will I need anything else?

[Captainfab]

I don't have any experience with the '71-'72 crossmembers, but it should beither a 100% bolt up, or no more that drilling one hole on each side and elongating one hole on each side. For that matter you do not have to change the crossmember. The crossmember and control arms are the same from '63-'72. You can simply just change the ball joints and add the disc brake spindles, rotors, calipers, etc.

You will also need a disc/drum master cylinder, proportioning valve, and you may need to change the intermediate pushrod in the booster. I believe the '69 booster would have the long one, and the master more than likely will be designed for the short one. You will have to check that.

[Pflugerman]

Change the ball joints from what to what?

[Captainfab]

Remove the '69 balljoints and install a set of '71-'72 balljoints..........of course this is assuming you are talking about C10's

Originally Posted by Pflugerman

Change the ball joints from what to what?

[Pflugerman]

Yes a 69. Thanks for the information!

[Chevystep]

Hey fellers, I've been trolling this disc brake conversion thread for a while as well as researching other drum to disc info. I've got one important question for me, and that is that I'd like to use either.....my original wheels-love my bow tie hubcaps, or barring being able to use them, does some vintage wheel maker make a wheel that uses 66 wheel hubcaps while still having the offset for most 6 lug aftermarket disc conversions?

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by Chevystep

Hey fellers, I've been trolling this disc brake conversion thread for a while as well as researching other drum to disc info. I've got one important question for me, and that is that I'd like to use either.....my original wheels-love my bow tie hubcaps, or barring being able to use them, does some vintage wheel maker make a wheel that uses 66 wheel hubcaps while still having the offset for most 6 lug aftermarket disc conversions?

I am not 100% sure about this, but I do not believe that the stock original '66 wheels will clear the disc brake calipers and rotors.

BUT, there are a few places that make OEM style wheels that will clear the brakes and still use your stock caps.

Here is one source for the wheels:
http://www.thewheelsmith.net/CustomW...cessories.html

Take a look at this thread;
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=556602

Dino did convert to 5-lug on this truck, but used aftermarket wheels to keep the stock caps.


BTW, I have family down in the area of Texas. We have a family farm just a few miles east of Fredericksburg.

[Chevystep]

Hey! Thanks for the vintage wheel link! Looks like I can pick up some black 15" OEM's there when I figure out which way I'm going on the disc conversion...
Yup, Hill Country is mighty nice, albeit not too great this time of year with the cedar pollen!

[jdaniel]

I want disc brakes all the way around on my 70', which is "better"/ easier, 6 lug or 5 lug? I currently have 6 lug.

[Captainfab]

The 6 lug discs are not any more difficult than 5 lug. The tried and true way for 6 lug is to purchase the aftermarket 6 lug rotors for the disc brake spindles. Which is better is up to you as far as what wheels you want to run.

Originally Posted by jdaniel

I want disc brakes all the way around on my 70', which is "better"/ easier, 6 lug or 5 lug? I currently have 6 lug.

[jdaniel]

Thanks Captainfab, what about the rear? What stock caliper brackets, rotors, calipers, etc fit the 12 bolt rear end on the 70' ?

[Captainfab]

There are not any OEM caliper brackets that will boltup to the 12 bolt. I make 5 different rear disc brake conversion brackets.

Originally Posted by jdaniel

Thanks Captainfab, what about the rear? What stock caliper brackets, rotors, calipers, etc fit the 12 bolt rear end on the 70' ?

[hddoc]

OK, Iam confused, Why not just swap the cab , bed and nose over to a 87 donor truck or earlier model with all the front end and power steering and power brakes and disc brakes. I am a newbie at this but to me it seems easier and faster to just swap them over. Or maybe it is not that easy to do. Thanks Doc

[Captainfab]

No it is not easier to install a '60-'66 cab onto a '73-'87 frame BTDT. It is one heck of a lot of work and due to the differences on the '73-'87 frame you end up with a 3" body lift. Then you have the possible legal problems with the frame and cab VIN's not matching.

A power disc brake and power steering upgrade can easily be done in a weekend.

Originally Posted by hddoc

OK, Iam confused, Why not just swap the cab , bed and nose over to a 87 donor truck or earlier model with all the front end and power steering and power brakes and disc brakes. I am a newbie at this but to me it seems easier and faster to just swap them over. Or maybe it is not that easy to do. Thanks Doc

[jdaniel]

Thanks again, Captainfab! Do you sell your caliper brackets for the 12 bolt rears?

[Captainfab]

All of the rear disc brake brackets that I make are for the '64-'82 truck 12 bolts and the '80-'87 10 bolts. There are links to the for sale threads in my signature line \/ \/ \/

Originally Posted by jdaniel

Thanks again, Captainfab! Do you sell your caliper brackets for the 12 bolt rears?

[hddoc]

Thanks for the info Capt. Doc.

[frog65]

1994 donor 2500 van will the a arms& spindles work on 65 1/2ton

[Captainfab]

The a-arms are totally different and will not work. The spindles were previously thought to work, but a few members have had trouble with getting the correct camber degree. So until a solution is found, I would advise against using those spindles......unless you want to work out the issue.

Originally Posted by frog65

1994 donor 2500 van will the a arms& spindles work on 65 1/2ton

[TypeSL2]

Well, I take that back. That did not exactly answer my question. What is the purpose of swapping the C20 LCAs onto my 64 for the 88-98 spindle swap? My spindles bolted right up yesterday, but I must be missing something somewhere?

James

[Captainfab]

The C20 LCA has the correct size ball joint bore to accept the '88-'98 ball joint. The C10 LCA's do not.

Since you have read the later posts in this thread and also posted in FoMoCoguy's thread, I will assume that you understand that there has been a camber issue that some members have experience. None of those members have been back to update with what they have done.

If you do have those same issues, please do let us know what you do to correct the situation.

[TypeSL2]

I was kinda afraid of that. It will be a while before I am ready for the alignment stuff since I am still in the process of swapping my LS motor in. If I can't get a hold of the guys that have fixed it, I will see what I can come up with. It doesn't look incredibly bad by the naked eye, but it is a little difficult to tell. The ball joint on my LCAs seemed to fit the knuckle snug, but maybe I need to double check them.

James

[Captainfab]

What lower ball joint are you currently using?