Sharing my bump steer fix with this Great community of truck nuts!

[LONGHAIR]

I am in total agreement with the others about a lock nut of some kind. I wouldn't try to drill them for a cotter pin, a simple prevailing torque type nut is perfectly fine.

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

Do they make the rod ends with a insert[bushing] of some kind for street use. I seem to recall when i was messing with those wallet draining drag cars that when you put the 4 link stuff in the back you could opt for different rod ends with some sort of insert the name escapes me now but it was to help a small bit on noise and with the other slight issues that might arise with daily use of driving a car/truck with rod ends on it. Jim

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...ead,25122.html

http://www.est1946.com/ssadjustablerodends.aspx

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by poorboy

Speedway also sells the cone spacers.

These
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370610280385

The high misalignment spacers wont work afaict because they reduce the bolt down to 1/2" on a 5/8" spacer. I suppose you could bush the steering knuckle to 1/2", but I don't know if a 1/2" bolt would offer enough margin of safety.

Also, with a longer bolt you can insert spacers between the cone and steering knuckle to fine tune the shaft angle.

[crakarjax]

Doing some digging, it looks like the tie rod adj. sleeve from a '90 Dodge D150 fits, at 10" and 11/16-18 thread.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....096&cc=1087051
And at $8 each not a bad deal -- I'd like to see an aluminum sleeve but couldn't find a set.

I did find an 8.5" aluminum set, but idk if this will fit. I'm not too close to mock-up yet so I can't really tell.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pof-105-10049/

Seems like it would be easier and cheaper to find stuff if we could use a 5/8" thread inner tie rod end. Anyone know of a suitable interchange? Even drilling the inner to a 5/8 heim would be cheaper overall. Check out this high misalign Heim for instance:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/QA1-PC...ale,45403.html

[wbc409]

What you did with the heim joint is the same thing Factory Five sells as a bump steer kit for their cobra replicas. Their kit comes with an aluminum sleeve with opposing threads so all you have to do is loosen the jam nuts to adjust.

[crakarjax]

I think the ES323L inner tie rod end will work to convert to 5/8" -- it's got a slightly smaller small and large taper diameter but identical taper angle.

Useful site: http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...&ct=clnk&gl=us

[The Rocknrod]

Looks like some company came up with a solution on the tie rod thing:
http://www.gsimfab.com/tie-rod-adapt...4250_8716.html

[BMERDOC]

The website says they are used to connect and rack to the spindles. Not the same thing.

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

The website says they are used to connect and rack to the spindles. Not the same thing.

They could be used for the same purpose but for $200 I'd rather just drill out the knuckle or get a tapered bushing to use a bolt. Tempting though, they look like nicely made pieces.

[Boog]

Gsimfab thinks its a good idea to use a cotter pin too. Just sayin.

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by Boog

Gsimfab thinks its a good idea to use a cotter pin too. Just sayin.

Absolutely, not worth risking a crash over...

[crakarjax]

I was thinking that something like this could be used if you ever wanted to go back to a top-mount rod, or even inserted into the bottom if you wanted to use regular tapered rods.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/.../INSSTEER.html

[jjzepplin]

I like both options. If those rack units are aluminum I might wonder. I think the spacer might be safer.

[88Stanger]

This is an awesome thread. Thanks you posting this and all the great added ideas!!

[Ben_Yeaton]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

I was thinking that something like this could be used if you ever wanted to go back to a top-mount rod, or even inserted into the bottom if you wanted to use regular tapered rods.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/.../INSSTEER.html

Has anyone used a bushing like this to flip the tie rod? I have found a few other options, just no specifics on pitch to know if they fit the C10 taper. The link above says for GM 1-ton rod ends, and I see others specifically for Jeep and Dana 30. Not much else. I feel like this could be a really good option for lowered guys facing this issue.

[Robznob11]

Here are my parts from rod end supply. There heim design cannot come appart and therefore needs no large washer on the bottom. As seen from pic. They are also self lubricated sealed units with special wear compound. They will make sleeves for you with any thread , any length, in aluminum, or steel (zink plated) i opted for aluminum 8 1/2 " long with a 5/8 LH anfd 3/4 RH. I have narrowed arms and was already running the cpp conversin sleeves from the disc swap years ago. So this will be a direct replacement bump steer kit with high end parts for about $115 shipped to my door. Oh I also got the stainless misalignment sleves like lolife posted. Only thing not pictured is 5/8 grade 8 bolts and lock nuts. I will get them locally.

[beadblaster]

mooreparts.com sell rubber dust boot covers for him joints


FK 1/2" TO 3/4" HEIM JOINT RUBBER BOOT SEAL RERS3
Brand:
FK Bearings

Price:
$7.00
(No reviews yet) Write a Review
SKU:
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Availability:
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[Ironangel]

Thank you for the heads up, all of you! ~Ghostrider~

[Robznob11]

Update with pics above😁

[Indyspecracer]

Originally Posted by Robznob11

Here are my parys from rod end supply. There heim design cannot come appart and therefore needs no large washer on the bottom. As seen from pic. They are also self lubricated sealed units with special wear compound. They will make sleeves for you with any thread , any length, in aluminum, or steel (zink plated) i opted for aluminum 8 1/2 " long with a 5/8 lh anfd 11/16 rh. I have narrowed arms and was already running the cpp conversin sleeves from the disc swap years ago. So this will be a direct replacement bump steer kit with high end parts for about $115 shipped to my door. Oh I also got the stainless misalignment sleves like lolife posted. Only thing not pictured is 5/8 grade 8 bolts and lock nuts. I will get them locally.

Would you mind posting the part numbers for the inserts that go in the arms of the knuckles? Thanks, Dave

[Robznob11]

The missalignment sleves are hms 10-12. If you are talking about abtapered insert for the spindle...there is not one....you drill the hole to a 5/8 straight bore and use a grade 8 bolt with lock nut. Aslo they have many styles of ends. Get the best chromemoly ones. I called and talked to Marda so she got me straight on the correct stuff.

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by Robznob11

Here are my parts from rod end supply. There heim design cannot come appart and therefore needs no large washer on the bottom. As seen from pic. They are also self lubricated sealed units with special wear compound. They will make sleeves for you with any thread , any length, in aluminum, or steel (zink plated) i opted for aluminum 8 1/2 " long with a 5/8 lh anfd 11/16 rh. I have narrowed arms and was already running the cpp conversin sleeves from the disc swap years ago. So this will be a direct replacement bump steer kit with high end parts for about $115 shipped to my door. Oh I also got the stainless misalignment sleves like lolife posted. Only thing not pictured is 5/8 grade 8 bolts and lock nuts. I will get them locally.

When you get those installed can you post a pic for the rest of us?

[Robznob11]

Yes sir! Currently im wating on my narrowed 9" to be built by quick performance. So it will be a month or so....

[mpalmer03]

Just got my new girl home- 69 swb still with 6 lug/drums. Wasn’t even aware of bumpsteer phenomenon until I saw on here. Unfortunately, mine has 3” spring drop only as well. My tie rod end in stock position is pretty flat. The part that concerns me is the bump stop on bottom only has an inch to go before it bottoms out on flange. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Didn’t have new springs and drop spindles in budget right now.

[Robznob11]

Well I got my kit on only to find out that my draglink had been swapped by a previous owner. Even though it looks cool the inner tierod are wrong fo my draglink.😡
If anyone has done the conversion disc swap where you use 68 outers as inners, hit me up if you want to switch to Heims on the spindle side. I had to have another set of adjusters made. So I guess these can become pretty shop art until the right person comes along....