Oil pan still leaking

[JAM1777]

I just had my rear main seal changed and transmission serviced with new gasket and filter because of all the leaks it had. And put new oil pan gasket and it still leaked. Found out pan was warped so had a friend fix the warped pan and put it back on and its still leaking. Im frustrated now and wondering if i should just get a new oil pan?? And if yes , does anyone know of a good place to order one? Something decent that will help with cooling? Or just something standard is ok. Any help would be appreciated. Its a 1969 C10 longbed. 350 smallblock 4 bolt main with a turbo 350 tranny. Once again thanks for any help

[Lee H]

Once a pan gets warped they are difficult at best to seal up. What type of gasket did you use, cork, rubber, silicon? If it were me I'd get a new pan and use a fel-pro one piece gasket. You can get a quality pan from summit or jegs, stay away for the off shore chrome junk.

[GASoline71]

These old engines are leakers, no matter what you really do. How did your friend "fix" the warped pan? If he restraightened the rails and then over tightened the fasteners again... leak city.

Gary

[cleszkie]

Where is your leak? Are you sure it is not coming from the crank seal in the timing chain cover, dipstick where it presses into the tranny case, or leaking valve cover gaskets?

Also, if you don't have a funtioning PVC system on your engine, pressure can build up and force oil out of places like a brand new rear main seal. Just trying to throw out some ideas.

[vectorit]

Don't forget to make sure the bolt hole in the front of the block that accesses the fuel pump shaft has a short bolt in it, if not there will be oil weeping from that hole that will follow the pan making it appear the pan is leaking.

[GASoline71]

Also remember... if a SBC ain't leakin' oil... IT'S OUT!

Gary

[leddzepp]

One piece fel pro gasket, a straight oil pan, make sure you do not over tighten the bolts.

[JAM1777]

Valve covers were leaking but i bought new rubber gaskets and fixed them. He staightened the pan and put it back on and still leaking. Its a fel pro one piece gasket. And its leaking in the back of the pan where the valley in the gasket is.

[hugger6933]

The later small blocks had a deal on them like the spreaders for the valve covers that cover the whole length of the pan. It is just a thin strip of metal to make the pan rail double thick but that may help. I have used the Valve cover bars before with great success. Jim

[GASoline71]

If it's "leaking" from the back... check from above. Check the valve cover gaskets again, and also check your oil pressure sending unit and the rear intake manifold valley seal. Many an oil pan or rear main seal leak has been found to be actually coming from the top of the engine.

Gary

[JAM1777]

Ok thanks for all the help everyone. I was looking for oil pans on summit racing and saw a few diffrent ones. Is an aluminum one a good choice? Or should i just go for a stock replacement? Any brand, type recomendations?

[Sammy]

Stock n make sure the dipstick access on the new pan is the same as yours. Felpro pan gaskets should come with new longer bolts, piece is worth the upgrade. Don't guess on torque on the bolts.

[CBrown680]

I had the same problem when I got my truck however, my pan was dented in due to speed bumps??? I used this Transdapt pan; http://www.jegs.com/i/Trans+Dapt/969/9920/10002/-1 and also the Fel-Pro gasket;http://www.jegs.com/i/Fel-Pro/375/OS-34509T/10002/-1. It installed easy with no leaks. Be sure and find out if you have an thick or thin front seal as that will make a difference. I believe the torque specs were 10 lbs but be sure and use a torque wrench. I did my replacement with the motor in the truck, when the new pan was going back in, it kept getting hung up on the bottom of the crankshaft at the #2 cylinder as I remember. I ended up unbolting and raising the motor carefully about 2" to allow for clearance. Hope this helps!