HD Roof Rack On Suburban

[special-K]

I need to build a heavy duty rack for my '95 Suburban. It doesn't have the factory rack. I could go to the junkyard and come home with one of those today. But, I need something heavier and would like to hear ideas from others. the rack will basically be a ladder/lumber rack like you'll see on a pickup or van. I'll style it to give more of an adventure machine rack to carry kayaks and such as well as work related. My concerns are locating best mounting points and best way to avoid metal fatigue. just looking for suggestions and/or hopefully experience of mounting heavy rack on any Suburban '92-present where there is no drip rail to use like on a van.

[special-K]

No thoughts, ideas, tips, suggestions, personal experiences?

[dragginmetal]

Have you checked any off-road or rock crawler websites? I've seen some with Large spare wheels on the top. I'd think they would have broke the stock racks, but I really don't know. I'm just going by pics I've seen.

[special-K]

That's a good thought, and I have looked. It seems all I've seen are mounted to the factory rack. that's where I need to learn, the rack to roof point. I wish I knew how the Subs were built in the roof rack mounting locations. I wonder if the provision for the rack is there on all. Most all came with a rack. I will definitely mount at the factory points and I'm sure there is reinforcement there on all. The headliner will be out when I do all this.

[TennesseeZ]

Wish I could help, Tim, but my experience is limited to my Yukon, and I rarely use the rack on it. I did remove it for detailing when I first bought it, and can say that the mounting points are not extremely heavy duty. I'm not even sure that it mounts to any kind of sub structure at all. You may be better served to go to the 'yard, find one with the headliner out, and go from there. In any case, I think you've got your work cut out for you, interested to see what you come up with.

[special-K]

Thanks, this is helpful. looking at the junk yard would be the ticket. I have to agree with you. This ain't no pickup truck headliner. There's all that A/C stuff up there and who knows what all

[special-K]

Ok, I've given you helpful fellow member a few weeks to do your brainstorming. What have you come up with?

[67swb72klb]

There is a pretty heavy brace just behind the front seating area in the roof
You just need to check one out that has the H/liner out to get some ideas

[iluvmy72]

I like these weld on units.....

http://www.offroadunlimited.com/orus...idCategory=171

[special-K]

Originally Posted by 67swb72klb

There is a pretty heavy brace just behind the front seating area in the roof
You just need to check one out that has the H/liner out to get some ideas

thanks for that info. I figured it must be beefy there. It can cantilever to the windshield just fine, like a pickup with last support at front of bed. The rear concerns me because the top is so trim and flat. But, the rear posts I would think would have to be beefy,too. i'm sure it's the same for behind the rear side doors, but I don't need support there. I guess I just need to hit a junkyard and see what's hiding under there

Originally Posted by iluvmy72

I like these weld on units.....

Those are nice cargo racks. I think they are welded construction, not weld-on. Weld/bolt you still need more than the sheet metal skin to properly mount. What I need, and I will build it, is a full length rack that has cross rungs and side rails. It will be styled like a sporty cargo rack, but open front and back and primarily used for toting ladders and scaffolding (pump jacks & walkboards 18'/20'/24'/30')

[rickpilgrim]

We have a 99 D@dge with a HD ladder rack. We've hauled 650 lbs of lumber on it among other things. They cost around $249 here, ours has a screened bottom, you could with a bit of welding easily make it fit your 'burban roof for a tough low buck rack with plenty of tie down points and a 8" rail on the sides. Just a thought

[special-K]

I can appreciate that time savings, but I've been designing and building my own stuff since I started contracting. I actually have a dislike for store-bought racks. I'm a craftsman and like my trucks to show it. And, my only issue is where to fasten properly. I'd guess I've had a good 1000-1500# up top before. I started out using round pipe and fish mouthing everything because round is stronger. Did my first couple that way. I finally went with square tube and it is so much easier in many ways. I've also grown to prefer the look. I'm looking forward to building these for the Suburban in a more recreational style. Most likely will just build them same as my last few sets. One hang up on the design that's bugging me is the hatch. I want these low to the roof as possible, but the hatch raises higher than the roof by a good bit. The rack can't come short or loading will be a challenge if the rear bar isn't out past the body. On a pickup the tailgate is way down there and I started setting the rear bar forward of the sides a few inches so nothing can slide of the side if loading on unlevel ground. Here is one of my prior trucks with my racks, the first set of square tube:

[special-K]

computer got whacked out, I guess due to snow. I was editing to mention in the background you can see my first set of round tube racks I originally built for a pickup bed that I adapted to utility bed. I started out subcontracting and my boss insisted the sides needed to be that high. Once on my own and on the next truck I kept them lower. I also tapered the legs for a better look. I always put expanded steel in front to protect the cab, but go with the long side horizontal (for a better look). It takes more than 4' so it uses more material and most go with vertical. Looks cheap to me. That's what all the bolt together crap does. Like I said, looks cheap (and actually is )

[rickpilgrim]

We have some of those 2000lb hinged loading ramps which makes me think it would not be to hard to make the last 8" or so hinged to lift out of the way for the hatch yet give you that full length rack for ease of loading. The bad is only soft luggage etc will be able to use that hinged area. Just a thought

[special-K]

I've been rethinking this. It's looking more and more like setting up a trailer is my best bet. I was a siding contractor for decades but, honestly, if I get a whole house siding job a year now I fee lucky. I don't want to hang it up and when I get a job I need to haul 24'-30' equipment. I never wanted to be married to a trailer. Most of the time I only carry a 24' ladder and occasionally a 32'. As it is I have a beefy little 10' utility trailer with 2' detachable sides of 2" tube & expanded steel, including a same height tailgate. So, I can carry my 18' pump jack poles and 18' walkboard in the center slid forward. Maybe the thing to do is buy those cleats Thule sells and two sets of cross bars (to get three) to carry a ladder or two that I can mount a cool cargo rack or kayak mounts to for recreational purposes. I'd like a tandem flatbed trailer 14' long and build a rack on that. The only time I won't like that is when there is no place to leave my trailer at the job. There was a time when my scaffold was either on the job or on the truck headed for the next job. These days it sits on a rack at my house made of 4x4 posts with 2x4 cross members. Not the prettiest thing to look at, but since I lost my building I rented on a farm that's how it is. I could get rid of that and just keep it on the trailer. Also, If the Suburban is down I can just hook up to another truck. I was really wanting to create a custom & unique cool looking Suburban work truck with a low profile rack that would turn people's heads. But, maybe it's not in the cards after all.

[rickpilgrim]

I spend more time with body and paint work to make our trucks and equipment looking sharp, I know what you mean to build to catch someone's eye.
Trailer is not a bad thing, paint to match your main tow vehicle with similiar styled wheels will be eye catching, even after 10 yrs of abuse are worth 50-70% of what you paid and putting racks on it for your ladders and jacks plus scaffolding all ready to go when needed should be good. Don't need it? Leave it home, ball hitch lock at jobsite are all doable(here all the time you see it) plus truly cheep license plate and your truck insurance usually covers it. Of course I'm biased, we have 4 trailers from 12'-24' and use them all the time.

[special-K]

I go for the total design look. Not that I ignore the paint and such. Here is the lettering I had my buddy put on the '84 and the only shot I have showing the desert sunset scene on the tailgate...from afar. This was 25 years ago. I did a '95, but have to find pictures

[special-K]

Here is the ''95 before the racks and with. Thy were powder coated two stage gen metal grey along with the rear bumper and diamond plate on the box tops. Thee top and inner surfaces were Line-X'd (inside bed,too) in a grey and I had a tonneau cover made in truck tarp material. I had a custom air bag suspension to drop the rear for loading while adding load capacity







Here is the '70 CST/30 I built in the '80s. picture was 1990. That's my Harley when I just bought it. I like low-profile utility beds. Also the '70 K/20 that had a utility bed:

[rickpilgrim]

Nice looking lettering and painted! I really like the look. These days around here we use vynil in sript as for $120 none of the paint lettering shops will answer the phone for a vehicle. Plus some of it has over 10 yrs in the sun rain snow ice etc and still looks good. Paint is more classy though and as much as I'd like to do it the economy isn't there.

[rickpilgrim]

I do more paint and body like the Dodge hauling all the scrap out of the shop. The 98 crew has some of that 10 yr old vynil, paints gone but lettering stills there.

[rickpilgrim]

Dodge

[special-K]

I love a proud workhorse. Nice trucks. I am best friends with the guy who does the sign painting. He does it all now, but has hired a young feller who does most of the vinyl. chuck gets $100 an hour and guys keep him busy...mostly dump trucks and big rigs. But Howard County, MD has some of the best painted contractor trucks around. You have arrived when you have a truck with his mural work on it. It helps that that county is the richest in the nation. He's damn good, but sure is lucky to be where he's been for nearly 40 years. Ellicott City is a very historic little town just outside Baltimore and he rents a little shop from the local International dealer who also deal in multiple wrecker body brands. Check him out > www.jackofarts.net Like I said, nearly 40 years, so way before the internet of he may have rethought the name Jack of Arts. now he is Jacko Farts
I never got to getting his work on the '95 before it's demise. Haven't had a decent work truck since. I had so much into that truck it makes me sick.

Here is the '92 K3500 I ordered and just stopped working out of last June. I never had it lettered either. The one with hubcaps is most recent:

[rickpilgrim]

Nice looking truck!

[special-K]

I should have kept it and put it back to as bought. I always wanted to when I retired it.

Still considering some sort of sporty work rack, just been off in different directions. I'd really like this thing with a well designed rack on it

[mrolds88]

Tim, I have a 96 Burb and can give you whatever measurements you need/want. Now as far as the headliner/a/c headaches, I may have an answer for that. They used to make (and I'm sure they still do) rubber inserts for this need. They have a brass insert in the small end. Drill your hole and drop in. They kinda look like a top hat from the side. Then mount whatever and tighten the screws down and it squeezes the rubber for a tight leak free mount. I'll do some looking for them.