Fuse blows when I hit the brake pedal

[jgmc]

Originally Posted by kwmech

Now you can unplug at the firewall and try again. Short may be in the column or the turn sig switch. Orange is power to the BL switch and the white wire goes into the column up to the switch and back down both turn sig wires to the tail lamps only to be cancelled on either side depending on which way you activate the signals. So your right turn is probably the culprit

I unplugged at the firewall and pushed the brake pedal and it blew the fuse. I pulled out the turn signal switch and the green wire had been pinched. I wrapped some tape around and the turn signals work both left and right but when I push on the brake pedal it still blows the fuse.
Does it matter how the brake light switch is plugged in, Orange and white wire on either side of the switch?
I’m going to pick up a new turn signal switch and maybe a brake light switch tomorrow and try that. Just don’t know what else to try.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by jgmc

I unplugged at the firewall and pushed the brake pedal and it blew the fuse. I pulled out the turn signal switch and the green wire had been pinched. I wrapped some tape around and the turn signals work both left and right but when I push on the brake pedal it still blows the fuse.
Does it matter how the brake light switch is plugged in, Orange and white wire on either side of the switch?
I’m going to pick up a new turn signal switch and maybe a brake light switch tomorrow and try that. Just don’t know what else to try.

The brake light switch is a simple SPST (single pole single throw) switch, and it's only purpose is to interrupt current flow. Doesn't matter which wire is on what terminal as long as both wires are connected. W.A.G. approaches usually result in unnecessary expense. Did you follow the advice given in post #4??

[jgmc]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

The brake light switch is a simple SPST (single pole single throw) switch, and it's only purpose is to interrupt current flow. Doesn't matter which wire is on what terminal as long as both wires are connected. W.A.G. approaches usually result in unnecessary expense. Did you follow the advice given in post #4??

I just ordered one.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by jgmc

I just ordered one.

I sent you a PM.

[jgmc]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

The brake light switch is a simple SPST (single pole single throw) switch, and it's only purpose is to interrupt current flow. Doesn't matter which wire is on what terminal as long as both wires are connected. W.A.G. approaches usually result in unnecessary expense. Did you follow the advice given in post #4??

How does it detect a short when the fuse blows as soon as a push the pedal?

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by jgmc

How does it detect a short when the fuse blows as soon as a push the pedal?

Inside that red cylindrical device is an automatic reset circuit breaker.. Remove the fuse that's blowing and connect the leads of the finder to the fuse terminals in the fuse box. In your case, also install a jumper across the brake light switch.. The circuit breaker will continually make and break causing the current to flow intermittently. Starting at the fuse box, the meter is passed along the wiring harness, and as the circuit breaker makes and breaks the circuit, the meter's needle will deflect in the direction of the shorted circuit.. If the meter passes the shorted branch of the harness, the meter will reverse it's direction of deflection, or in some cases, cease deflecting.. When the meter reaches the point of the short, the meter will stop deflecting in either direction..

Go to the link I posted and download the instructions. Also included in the instructions is a detailed description of how the device works.

[jgmc]

Thanks Rusty Pile for the help! Finally good to go

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by jgmc

Thanks Rusty Pile for the help! Finally good to go

I'm glad it worked for you.. I came across that Short Finder on a Matco Tool truck some 40 + years ago. I have never failed to locate a short using it..