REAR shock suggestion?

[turbotruck]

68 c10 355 turbo sbc
stock suspension
stock shocks.
last year with the less powerfull motor i ran 10.09@131
i spent all day today trying to get it to hook with the new motor. best i could get was 11.21@130
it hits off the line ok. can cut a 1.5 60 foot. but then it spins at the top of first gear, pedal it, shift to second, power comes in. spins. pedal it shift to 3rd. power comes in and it spins.

i m thinking my 15 year old monroe shocks are no longer cutting the mustard

what is a budget friendly rear schock for the 67-72? its lowered 4 in in back. 3 in drop springs and a 1' block. has the cpp shock relocate brackets installed

[BR3W CITY]

QA1's have been solid in all the apps I've used them in.

[turbotruck]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

QA1's have been solid in all the apps I've used them in.

QA1 is $$$$$$$$$
im hoping for something a little cheaper.
vikings are a bit cheaper. but still $$$$$

[Ont67shortbox]

I use Rancho 9000 work great, 9 adjustments for stiffness,I usually set mine on number 7

[Kyle@FTP]

I was going to say give AFCO a call. but if you think QA1s are pricey you will not be impressed with AFCO. But by far the best in the business and the trophies to prove it.

[PGSigns]

I am a firm believer in double adjustable shocks for drag racing. They are the biggest tuning aid that you have with the setup under your truck. I would just bite the bullet and call Afco, QA1, Strange or Sanhuff and talk to these folks about what you want to do and let them work with you. Buying the right set first is much cheaper than buying 2 sets. And buy all four as both ends are important to getting one to hook and go.
Jimmy

[djracer]

I have the longer qa1 single right now but plan to buy the long doubles before my truck hits the track again.

[turbotruck]

called up calvert this spring. going to order some. its basicaly a 9way rancho

[PGSigns]

When you get it together also work on tires and tire pressure. To much pressure will give you some of what you had going on.
Jimmy

[Rannos]

I'm putting Viking double adjustable shocks on my truck. Right now mine leaves real hard then spins at the top of first as the front tires settle back down and the left rear unloads. Hope with double adjustable shocks I can tune that out.

[Super73]

TurboTruck, please don't take this the wrong way, but it sounds like you have a decent amount of money in to the power department, why are you going to cheap out on one of the most important things in making any combo work?

Suspension and tire is key to making power stick.

I am not saying you need to break the bank but an extra couple hundred dollars could really aid in getting your truck to work every time out.

[turbotruck]

i've got plenty of tire. its mostly a street truck, viking wants 250 each for double adjustable s. i have friends running the calvert's with good success. i just cant justify spending that much money on shocks. i'm hoping to go to the track during bracket race days. i've heard the prep is a little better. i've been going to the street legal days. im turning the boost up this year so we'll see how she goes. should make over 800 wheel this year

[Super73]

Tire size means nothing without the suspension to make it work. Ever seen how fast the 235 radial cars go? Only reason is a well thought out dialed in suspension.

[turbotruck]

its a 295/65/15 mickey thompson drag radial. it works great most of the time

[Super73]

I havemailed been playing on a 315/60/15 MT drag radial for years so I have a decent understanding of how the tire works.

If it is dead hooked out of the hole and spinning a few feet out, check to make sure you are not topping out the front suspension as that shock of all the added weight you are trying to lift will often times unload the tire.

[turbotruck]

Originally Posted by Super73

I havemailed been playing on a 315/60/15 MT drag radial for years so I have a decent understanding of how the tire works.

If it is dead hooked out of the hole and spinning a few feet out, check to make sure you are not topping out the front suspension as that shock of all the added weight you are trying to lift will often times unload the tire.

i think my main issue with the new motor is that the power comes on so much differently than the last motor did. i added a transbrake this year, so i should be able to hit the tire harder. im going to get a set of 90/10's for the front to try out too.

[Super73]

Hitting a radial harder with a tbrake does not help. Example, on motor with my 2 step out of the way my converter goes to 5k sitting on the brake. That knocks the tires off.. Set the 2 step at 3'500 and it hooks evey pass.

Put the unit on it with out the 3'500 rpm 2 step and it is even worse.

Buy a better shock thn a 90\10.. Been there done that. I had the unloading issue on the radial at 12.3x do to the 90/10 and explanation I provided above.

I am trying to pass along my experience and info to you. Do as you see fit...

[PGSigns]

Super73 is giving you good information. All the power in the world and hitting the tire hard with the brake is not going to help you at all with out good shocks. The shocks you are getting will only let you adjust the rebound and that will aid in control of the chassis separation when you first hit the tire but as soon as the truck starts to roll a few feet you need to be able to control the compression to keep the tire hooked. Control of the front with a set of 90 10's worked in 1975 but not now. Being able to control how fast the comes up and the speed it settles can make a night and day difference in the way the rear works. Think about what it cost you to go test. Add up the fuel food entry and other cost and if you go a few times and don't get it sorted it adds up quick. For us the cost of a trip to the track would have paid for the better shocks. Over the 35 years of racing I learned there are places to buy good parts and shocks is one of those places.
Jimmy

[Marv D]

Oh come on guys,, you know there is a easy solution to the wheelspin... just get rid of about 1/2 of the power!!!

LOL I went from 660HP and turning the tires a 1/2 - 3/4 turn on launch,, to a little street motor that is just going to totally dead hook and tear all sorts of crap up!!
I spent a year farting with the 4link and the Strange SPA-1 single adjustable coil-overs. I was getting close then changed to a set of Koni double adjustable aluminum body shocks, added 300+ HP, and took some gear out of it. A year later I had it doing 1.44 sixtys at 3640 pounds, with a n/a SBC through the mufflers and only enough power to trap at 115MPH.

My point of all this is... IF your not willing to spend the time and effort to get the suspension sorted out and setup RIGHT for your particular pile of parts,, no amount of $ spent on the shocks is going to do magic to the hook.

I can almost promise you Jimmy, Shaun, Kevin,, or any of the heavy hitters above didn't slap a set of shocks on and say .. "THERE! it should be quicker to the first cone now". It just don't happen that way! If anyone doesn't put a new shock on and LOOSE ET the first pass,, well then they were silly off on the setup with the last shock! OK maybe not 100% of the time, but you get my meaning.

Optimization of your setup takes work, effort, testing and $'s. There is just no way around it. At least none I've ever found.

[vin63]

Originally Posted by turbotruck

...its mostly a street truck...

^^^ This is really all we need to know. Any shock will suffice. It would be more beneficial for the OP to figure out the driving style the chassis responds to best...it will probably be better to foot brake launch the truck.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by Marv D

no amount of $ spent on the shocks is going to do magic to the hook.

There is just no way around it. At least none I've ever found.

Do Moton's still come with a guy to tune them? I remember back in the day if you bought those computer monitored Moton's, Penske's etc, they would send a tech to set them up for you.....




....but thats a $20k set of shocks.

[Super73]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

The shocks you are getting will only let you adjust the rebound and that will aid in control of the chassis separation when you first hit the tire but as soon as the truck starts to roll a few feet you need to be able to control the compression to keep the tire hooked.

This is a good example of understanding chassis. But I almost promise turbos truck's IC is not above the neutral line and likely is less than 100% AS.

[turbotruck]

yeah, im slowly learning. i did fairly well on the stock suspension. best 60 foot was 1.4 on old motor. new motor was 1.6 with a broken th350. 1st gear wouldnt hold power. new th400 this year. hopefully have the fuel issues sorted out. so i can make a full pass. the trans brake was more for consistency. the foot brake method was not so great. launching off idle was worse than launching at 0 boost/0 vaccum. if i could figure out how to post a video i would lol

[turbotruck]

https://youtu.be/OaPCj0CppbA

[turbotruck]

unfortunately thats the 383 stroker with the na cam on 15 lbs of boost. i dont have any vids from last year