built the all wood flatbed

[kernalklink]

Several people have inquired about a wood flatbed, well i built one on Saturday, and i thought people might be interested in it - I am 26 years old and i built it completely by myself in one day at a cost of about $150 i have more plans that will cost more money but that is the price so far

part list:
5, 8' 4x4's
13, 8' 2x6's
2, 8' 2x4's
2 12" carriage bolts
4 8" carriage bolts
4 10" carriage bolts
1 box of 3.5" 10 year desk screws

pic:

[lovnthe70]

Looks really good, a headache rack would compliment it well.

[basemodel67]

Nice! Now add some tie down points, and go hauling!

[kernalklink]

Originally Posted by lovnthe70

Looks really good, a headache rack would compliment it well.

i was thinking about a roll-bar with a closed front so i would have a "box" when i added some sides

[dakotajeep]

You should do a write up.....or take a bunch of close-up pics of the completed project those of us that want to do this.

I think this is the route I may go due to the bed on mine being trashed....too many years as a farm truck!

Thanks
Thad

[kernalklink]

i actually started doing a write-up already look for it soon

[thirdstreettito]

^^
MORE

[kernalklink]

process:
first i had to make the shims for the front and rear of the frame rails so i had a level bed: the front i used a 19" long 2x4 and a ½ inch shim the rear got a 26" 2x4 and a ¼" shim. this put it pretty level with the mid section of the frame(close enough for me)

then i simply set the first 4x4 along the frame rail - i drilled a couple notches with a 1" drill bit to make an opening for a couple rivets and bolts that stuck up so the 4x4 would lay flat on the mid section, i clamped them down nice and tight making sure my shims were appropriate, also I had to notch out for my gas filler neck. .
There are 2 risers right behind the cab - i put the first bolt in the second front riser and clamped it nice and tight - i tried to sink the head of the bolts completely so it would not affect the next board.

then i cut 4 of the 4x4's to the exact length of 13 2x6's wide. 73 ½" if i remember correctly.

i started at the back setting the first 4x4 just above the very back factory hole in the frame about 1 ¾ inches from the end of the frame rail 4x4, i let mine hang over(have plans for it later). I made sure the board was centered by measuring the hangover lengths on both sides they were about 19 ½ inches , I then drilled through both 4x4's and the shim directly above the hole (this alignment was very tricky but i got it in one try on all except 1) i bolted on the very back 4x4 nice and tight!

i removed all the clamps since i have the front and rear bolted tight

i used 2 of the leftover 4x4 blocks from cutting down the 4x4's and laid them on the 4x4 rail on both sides up tight to the back of the end 4x4 – also made sure they were the exact same length – I slid the next 4x4 up tight to them – then I screwed the filler blocks in place, I had to drill holes in the frame rail for the second 4x4 and then bolted it in place.

I wish I could have moved the third 4x4 more towards the cab but the shock mounts were in the way so I measured as close as I could get to it and then cut a second set of filler blocks to that length. Screwed down the filler blocks and drilled holes(frame also) and bolted the third 4x4 down.

The very front and last 4x4 was the trickiest because it had the most wood to drill through but I repeated the steps above to mount it – this is where the 5th 4x4 was used since I was out of scrap blocks to use for fillers, drilled a hole in the wood and bolted on the last 4x4.

Then I put the 2x6's on and aligned them where I wanted and started screwing them down – I screwed both outside 2x6's on first so they were even with the ends of the 4x4's and let the rest float, but it was a tight fit.

[dakotajeep]

Awesome!!! A picture for me is worth a million words!!!!

Thanks
Thad

[kernalklink]

driver side right behind the cab those are the 'risers i spoke of


the driver side behind the wheel


looking down the middle


passenger side front


the deck


passenger side

[Wootdog]

Sweet. I would then put some sides and a front and rear on it. A guy by the name of Yukon Jack had a nice one on here a few years ago.
Kerry

[kernalklink]

Originally Posted by Wootdog

Sweet. I would then put some sides and a front and rear on it. A guy by the name of Yukon Jack had a nice one on here a few years ago.
Kerry

that's the plan - i want to get a roll bar with a closed front - then im going to add some 'skirts' made of 2x8's and notch the deck for some "stake pockets" and make some remove-able sideboards from 2x12's - i will probably get some c-channel and just screw it to the sideboards so i can drop 2x12's straight down for a tailgate, but that would require the sideboards to be very solid - i plan on making them store-able in the opening above the gas tank in the middle.

[oldblue1968chevy]

pretty sweet! I like it actually! Need a headache rack and something on the sides and some tie downs it'll look sweet when your done!!! Check out yukon jacks flatbed!

[thirdstreettito]

Heres a wood bed.

http://sarasota.craigslist.org/cto/1693486809.html

[oldblue1968chevy]

thats whatcha need bradley!!! wait sarasota, isnt that FL? LOL

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice job on the bed! That would be even more cool with a line-x or rhino lining sprayed over it when done.

[Shyguy]

Thank you for posting the write up and the pictures.

I have been thinking seriously about putting a flat-bed on my '71 since I have always wanted a truck with a flat-bed.

The long step-side is pretty rough so I may go flat-bed until I have time to work on the step-side bed.

I will just have to wait and see how things unfold since most of my time is spent on the '67 swb stepper restoration.

Danny

[longhorn70gmc]

Very Nice, I compliment you on your hard work. What kind of sealer are you going to apply to it? I am debating on doing this to one of my Longhorns.
R/

[kernalklink]

i used all pressure treated lumber - someday when it dries up a bit more I might worry about sealing it - ive been doing some tests with some 3M rubberized undercoating that stuff really sticks to the wood nice, if it's dry! and i would love to roll some bedliner over the top more than anything just to make it less slick when it's wet.

but really at less than $150 to build it - i probably wont seal it at all if it rots i will just replace it - it will probably cost more than or close to $150 just for the 3M undercoating at $7 a can

[Yukon Jack]

That is very unique!

[M Evertsen]

I like this idea. I am thinking about doing this to my 81 K1500 - Do you know what the weight difference is between this wood and the original bed? I just like the idea of a flat bed better. I would just put a headache rack and mud flaps in front of and behind the rear tires, and then coat directly around the tires with bed liner. I would also use pressure treated lumber and apply used motor oil to it all before assembly.

[kernalklink]

Not sure about the weight differences
i never really had the original box on the truck with replaced rear springs

since this was posted i made some side and back 'skirts' ,and some 2' tall box sides all out of 2x4/6/12etc. it definetly added alot more weight

if i had to guess i would say this is probably heavier than the original box

[Husker]

That looks Pretty darn Good. Nice job
Ron

[MrSchaeferPants]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice job on the bed! That would be even more cool with a line-x or rhino lining sprayed over it when done.

Naw, can't rhino line it, then you can't see the wood. He needs to stain it, then put a coat of that bar top epoxy resin stuff on it, and let it age and ware with use. It'd look sweet.

[chevy72pu]

Originally Posted by mrschaeferpants

naw, can't rhino line it, then you can't see the wood. He needs to stain it, then put a coat of that bar top epoxy resin stuff on it, and let it age and ware with use. It'd look sweet.

x 2.