Serpentine setups..info please

[MylilBowTie]

I smell a sticky or tech artical. Tons of good helpful info

[Palf70Step]

Here is mine. It came off a 94 C1500 with a 4.3

I didn't bother to drill the head to mount, you really don't need it it bolts solidly without the extra hassle.

In the second picture you can see where i didn't add the second bolt on the upper/inner side. You can see the brace from the tensioner to the drivers side of the head and it and the other braces make it plenty strong for normal use. There is several folks that run them that way and no problem if you don't want to go through the hassle of drilling and tapping the head.

[pcmcobra]

so now that I have 95% of what I need, i can get started, just missing 2 bolts for smog pump pulley.
As for all of this other emissions crapola...I am now having second thoughts about this. I don't want to put a new carb or intake on this motor, don't want to put another dime in it really. But there is some equipment attached to some of these stock brackets I am not familiar with and just don't want to get knee deep, and have one of those "uh-oh" moments.
I'm gonna post some pics and maybe you guys can tell me what I can yank off and not worry about. no smog tests here so I don't care about the emissions stuff.

[pcmcobra]

Here goes, what I want to know is, can I get rid of this stuff that is hindering me from converting to a serpentine setup, without having to buy any new equipment, like carb/intake...
If so, can you explain what I need to do with the lines that are connected to the devices in the pics?
The last pic is a wire, and I just don't know what it is connected to, or what it does.
thx all.

[piecesparts]

First of all, do you have smog tests in your state? If so the smoggies will make you put the stuff back on. All of the tubes in your pictures are for air injection to your exhaust system and it is required in most states. Many trucks did not have smog stuff on it, however, my 84 and my son's 85 did and now that stuff is in the trash, but I live in Kansas and we do not have smog checks. If you are free of the rules, then YES it can be removed and the holes plugged with either plugs from an automotive outlet or homemade plugs. The wire that you want to remove is not going to give you any issue and if nothing else just move it and the connector out of the way. Take the smog pump and do the ALLY-oop to the storage ppile in the back of the garage.

Look for a basic motor plan, here. Gas and air in, and exhaust out (without the cats I imagine). The dizzy and carb may have to be changed for something that is not computer dependent for operation. I put a standard HEI into my truck and then did an upgrade to an aluminum intake to get rid of the computer carb. YOu could change over to a different carb selection without changing the intake.

I have a 383 stroker motor in my truck and my son's truck has a standard 350 without the smog, and cats affecting them. Short of giving off emission gases that are not inline with California's standards (who cares about
california), we have good running vehicles.

[pcmcobra]

in the post before the pics, I did mention no smog test. In Florida, they did away with that years ago. So I am good there.
thx for the input.

[Jonboy]

The first pics are your AIR injection pipes into the exhaust manifolds. The rest of the pics are the one way check valves to keep from putting exhaust into the smog pump. If you are getting rid of the smog pump, you can pull that off. It will not set a check engine light. You can unplug the electrical connection to the switch on the check valves and just folt it cack into the harness to get it out of the way. The last picture is your brake pressure switch (I think). If not that, it goes to a high pressure switch for the Power steering. Either way, leave that one.

[jdmaffeo]

Yes the last picture is the brake pressure switch....Leave that one, but the rest can go if you don't have emmisions testing.

[Pyrotechnic]

Bringing this one back from the dead. This thread has lots of great info.

With the stock R12 A/C dying in my 77, I'm getting very serious about swapping to the 96-04 serpentine setup and delphi compressor mention earlier in this thread. My main motivation for moving to this setup is hopes of: Easy valve cover access with the ability to run tall valve covers and remove them easily and of course the improved efficiency of the delphi compressor.


Does the A/C compressor or alternator interfere with the valve covers at all ? I want to be able to run tall valve covers and have easy access to them if I need to adjust the rockers.

[pcmcobra]

Im still having a tough time w/ the ac. I bought some 92 firebird ac hoses, but not working/fitting right with my drier, and also a little long to condenser, kinking the hose. Local ac shops want $200 just to make lines using my existing lines.
Any ideas?
thx

[gchemist]

The serpentine belt system leaves plenty of room to remove the valve covers. Eventually I'll change mine to chrome.

[ElGracho]

Why not buy hoses for a 91 Blazer with a 350? They had serpentines...

[pcmcobra]

Originally Posted by ElGracho

Why not buy hoses for a 91 Blazer with a 350? They had serpentines...

well, I did.
Went to oreilly's and that's what I asked for, but what I got would not fit. Maybe I will try a different place. Maybe they got me the wrong ones?
thx

[Pyrotechnic]

Maybe they were thinking S10 Blazer ? Tell them 91 V10 Blazer, or even 91 R10 Suburban. The R10 Suburban was the only Surburban that year, maybe thats a little more fool proof for parts counter workers ?

[East End K5]

here's a fng question,,,what benefit does a serpentine setup do for an older engine?

[liljon285]

I guess im unique cuz i have not seen one truck with the one i got!

[piecesparts]

My local NAPA makes up hoses and I know that the cost will be up a little, but it is not around $200.00. Of course this depends on how much hose and how long you want them.

[pcmcobra]

went to my local napa, and the counter guy acted like he was not even interested in helping me look for a hose, alot of sighs and shrugs. Asked about making ac hoses and he really did not answer my question, just gave me a bunch of fluff and pointed me to a couple different ac places, I just walked out, what a turd that guy was. Don't have time or patience for that kind of service.
I am going to check a couple more places maybe this weekend and see what turns up.

[72C203503ONTHETREE]

Thats weird, I had a 90 half ton chevy with the 350 and it had the aluminum brackets, not the crappy steel ones. I git it new so I know it wasnt swapped.

[Palf70Step]

Originally Posted by 72C203503ONTHETREE

Thats weird, I had a 90 half ton chevy with the 350 and it had the aluminum brackets, not the crappy steel ones. I git it new so I know it wasnt swapped.

I think 88, or maybe 88 & 89 were the only years they used those crappy steel brackets.

[piecesparts]

Look at O Reilly's, they also have hoses---In my area, maybe yours too. Sorry about the counter nerd ( and I mean this in a nice way---If he doesn't know his parts or his local suppliers, then he is of no great use to the customer) doing you that way at NAPA.

[pcmcobra]

I actually got 92 firebird hoses from oreilly's, they were close, but low side was too long and would kink, and the high side I had to turn a little bit to hook up to dryer, again, kink. I got discount auto to order me hoses for a 91 FS blazer w/out rear air, they should work, I hope.

[liljon285]

Yes i heard my bracket was crap because my engine will bend it but it its unique!

[Cherub]

Originally Posted by DirtyLarry

Here are the 4 different SB serpentine bracket systems to be found in the bone yards. The 4.3L V6 used the same brackets.

1) ’87 – 91’ stamped steel brackets. These are the least desirable as they are notorious for braking causing weird noises and belt squeaks. These are junk....don't buy them (First picture)
2) ’92 – ’95 aluminum brackets. (Second picture) GM also sells these brackets in kit form. GM part number 12497698 and goes for around $700. (Third pic) The down side to these brackets is you have to use the crappy R4 A/C compressor.
3) ’96 – ’04 (yep, the 5.7L was still around in 2004) These are good brackets as well and allow for the much more reliable Delphi A4 A/C compressor. These are the best in my opinion. (Fourth pic)
4) F and B body car brackets. I have a picture of those at home that I can scan in this weekend.

I was looking up information on starting this conversion (option 3) but in the pic provided It looks like the A/C compressor and altenator are switched to what i have now. Is this going to be a problem?

[DirtyLarry]

Cherub,

Good choice…. The 1996 - 2004 are the best small block brackets in my opinion.

I am not sure I understand your question…

If your A/C compressor is currently on the passenger’s side you will need to have new hoses made to relocate it to the driver’s side, which is no big deal as you will need a new A/C hose header anyway in order to use the new Delphi compressor. Moving the alternator is no big deal either and usually doesn’t require any rewiring…only rerouting and an end connector change.