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Old 01-03-2024, 01:18 AM   #1
Spf79
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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Originally Posted by CanadianNascar View Post
Love the ashtray mod, may use that idea myself, thanks for sharing.
Thank you, I was trying to figure out a slick way to mount a USB rapid charging port that wasn't a 12v socket plug in the cigarette lighter socket.
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Old 01-04-2024, 04:59 AM   #2
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

Installed the early style e-Brake lever tonight. I need to massage the cover a bit, it needs to be wet sanded and rubbed out... along with the rest of the paint. I honestly thought about getting a personalized license plate that reads "ORG-PEEL". Anyways, I shimmed the handle so that is was more horizontal compared to the bottom of the dash. Not shimming it allows the handle to hang down away from the dash and hit the speaker when fully disengaged.
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Old 01-09-2024, 04:07 AM   #3
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

Great truck. Good that you get back on the build when you can. I bet you'll love it when it's done. The orange is cool. Always like to see trucks go back to their original color too.
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Old 01-09-2024, 04:46 PM   #4
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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Great truck. Good that you get back on the build when you can. I bet you'll love it when it's done. The orange is cool. Always like to see trucks go back to their original color too.
Thank you!!
I'm getting closer daily, feels good to get back into a groove on it.

Almost finished the door assembly, the window felts were a nightmare, had to cut them down to fit. Lots of blue tape.
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Old 01-15-2024, 08:15 AM   #5
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

Looking great, all your dark saddle pieces match pretty well, did you paint the dash pad? Any idea what your upolstry people used material wise? Is it available? brand? Color?
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Old 01-15-2024, 01:46 PM   #6
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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Looking great, all your dark saddle pieces match pretty well, did you paint the dash pad? Any idea what your upolstry people used material wise? Is it available? brand? Color?
Thank you! It was a lot of effort.

I wanted dark saddle everything, but usually you get dark brown, brown or a different tinge of dark saddle whenever you order something online.

I went to Top Flight Automotive and ordered their corvette dark saddle vinyl paint and painted door panels, dash pads, boots and anything else that it worked on. I also took that vinyl paint/dye and had some auto paint matched from it. I painted the column, and all interior seat brackets with this and then clear coated everything. Fyi, Rustoleum crystal clear paint was far superior to the expensive auto paint I had purchased.

The carpet is ACC dark saddle, and the seat material is 72 dark saddle from SMS auto fabrics in Canby, OR. Sadly, the seat belts I ordered do not match very well... not sure what the plan there is yet. I didn't want to try and refurbish old belts, or pay for it to be done so the options are not great.
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Old 01-15-2024, 02:05 PM   #7
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

I am wrapping up some engine compartment items before I add the front clip.
I purchased a larger booster/master cylinder set up from a local vendor, and it did not cross my mind that my support brackets coming off of the booster and master cylinder would no longer fit. Is there a consensus that we actually need these brackets?
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Old 01-15-2024, 02:22 PM   #8
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

Thanks for the reply, ...Well the effort has paid off. Best compliment I can give is I am going to try and copy some of what you have done.....I also went with a bigger booster same problem, I think there might be a brace for the 3/4 ton trucks. I cut a 2" piece of stainless 1x1 tubing, polished and attached under lower brace at the firewall, with longer bolt, not the best solution. But not in a place you can see too well.
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Old 01-15-2024, 04:59 PM   #9
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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Thanks for the reply, ...Well the effort has paid off. Best compliment I can give is I am going to try and copy some of what you have done.....I also went with a bigger booster same problem, I think there might be a brace for the 3/4 ton trucks. I cut a 2" piece of stainless 1x1 tubing, polished and attached under lower brace at the firewall, with longer bolt, not the best solution. But not in a place you can see too well.
Thank you, I appreciate that.
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Old 01-21-2024, 03:43 AM   #10
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

Wiring...

Almost finished with my engine compartment, I integrated the MSD and double checked all of the other connections. I have a few grounds to add, and some heat wrap to apply on the main harness running behind the engine.

Tranny cooler lines are installed finally, and I need to finish the fuel line to the carb. Tomorrow I need to finish up the stereo wiring that will be hidden behind the rear side panels. After that I feel good about testing everything with both batteries installed.

Praying for no fires. Lol.
Sorry about the upside down & sideways pictures.
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Old 01-28-2024, 04:49 AM   #11
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

Purchased a 12" slim subwoofer.
I'll build a box on the backside of the side panel. Here are a couple of examples I am looking at.
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Old 02-05-2024, 11:25 AM   #12
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

Never enough time in the day.
I was able to set time aside to cut & buff my drivers door and get it bolted on. I'm still drinking with some gap issues. The door is to tight against the body at the jam. There doesn't seem to be any more forward adjustment. Seems odd. I also had to put three shims behind the striker plate on the jam... still catching the door latch funny. Doors are original to the Blazer.

At least the passenger side is done.
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Old 02-05-2024, 09:25 PM   #13
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

You probably have these specs....several posts from "lks dcvn" on Blazer tub, shims and alignment. I don't remember exactly what I did but I had the hard top on, which is supposed to help. Good luck. The devil is in the details.....The measurements are in hundredths, I think, just to add another level of confusion.
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Old 02-05-2024, 11:00 PM   #14
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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You probably have these specs....several posts from "lks dcvn" on Blazer tub, shims and alignment. I don't remember exactly what I did but I had the hard top on, which is supposed to help. Good luck. The devil is in the details.....The measurements are in hundredths, I think, just to add another level of confusion.
Thank you for sharing these.
I have seen one of them, but not the others. Very helpful.
I'll do some measurements tonight. One small chip so far... sad face.
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Old 02-06-2024, 05:39 PM   #15
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

You may have to add shims in specific locations in your body mounts also, and definitely top bolted on, nice build eh.
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Old 02-07-2024, 03:02 AM   #16
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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You may have to add shims in specific locations in your body mounts also, and definitely top bolted on, nice build eh.
Thank you! Yes, I have to pick some up this week.
I don't have a top, so I will have to do my best.
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Old 02-07-2024, 03:11 AM   #17
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

I started fresh tonight, I had no patience after work yesterday.

The door gaps look better. I need to mess with the body mount shims before the front clip goes on.

My female dog ate one of my trim pieces... and I found a small velcro sanding block in my door.

I think I can spend days screwing with the gaps, they aren't perfect, but I'm not sure if I can ever consider them "perfect"... the whole process is maddening.
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Old 02-07-2024, 03:20 AM   #18
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

More pics
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Old 02-20-2024, 01:31 AM   #19
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

Your gaps look pretty good in my opinion. These trucks weren’t exactly perfect from the factory so gaps can be tough.
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Old 03-18-2024, 03:39 AM   #20
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

I made some time this weekend and I am feeling pretty close on the side panels. Since I'm running a 12" sub I am making sure to secure the panels to the bed sides thoroughly.
I'm using 1/4-20 nut inserts, they are working well.

I am working on making a cap for the bed rail, similar to the gray interior. I can put some 1/4-20 t-nuts in the wood that will allow me to bolt through the 5/16-18 inserts captured iunder the bed rail. This should give me a nice hidden fastener look. I have to use some fancy flush mount machine screws for the side panels. I am using truck cab dome lights for courtesy lights in the back. This stuff takes forever, the loop carpeting does not like metal shavings from drilling
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Old 03-18-2024, 08:29 AM   #21
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

Good progress.

Is there a learning curve to installing nutserts or is that pretty straightforward? I need to add these on the roof of my 99 Suburban to install a rack system. Worried I'll bugger it up.
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Old 03-18-2024, 10:14 AM   #22
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Thumbs up Re: 1972 Build thread.

I installed a nutsert on my RH reproduction bedside on my 1970 Blazer to match the other side. The installation was a breeze. I had never done one before, but it looked exactly like the factory installed one on the drivers side. There are some Youtube videos going over the process/
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Old 03-18-2024, 11:19 AM   #23
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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Good progress.

Is there a learning curve to installing nutserts or is that pretty straightforward? I need to add these on the roof of my 99 Suburban to install a rack system. Worried I'll bugger it up.
Thank you!
No Learning curve at all, and after seeing your level of work, I am sure you will be perfect the first time.

Get a nice step bit, and mark the step you want to stop at with a noticeable color. Stop one step below where you think you need to be, check fitment there. Once you get two or three in, you will be good to go. Maybe practice on a small piece of sheet metal if you are unsure. Once I watched a few videos I was brave enough to do it.

I hope it works out easy for you.
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Old 03-18-2024, 11:37 AM   #24
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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Good progress.

Is there a learning curve to installing nutserts or is that pretty straightforward? I need to add these on the roof of my 99 Suburban to install a rack system. Worried I'll bugger it up.
https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/4...o&ref_=ast_bln

I own two rivnut setting tools. The Y shaped one and the red drill setter tool. Both are great and easy.

Also the best way to remove a failed rivnut or stripped one is a simple countersink bit.

Important!!!!!! Do not use impact drivers on fasteners!!! Use hand tools. You will screw up a rivnut or two. Every time I am in a hurry and fail to follow this advice, I end up screwing up a rivnut or two.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/srzzPJFQGFI
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Old 03-18-2024, 11:42 AM   #25
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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Originally Posted by NDM View Post
https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/4...o&ref_=ast_bln

I own two rivnut setting tools. The Y shaped one and the red drill setter tool. Both are great and easy.

Also the best way to remove a failed rivnut or stripped one is a simple countersink bit.

Important!!!!!! Do not use impact drivers on fasteners!!! Use hand tools. You will screw up a rivnut or two. Every time I am in a hurry and fail to follow this advice, I end up screwing up a rivnut or two.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/srzzPJFQGFI
Great advise. 👍
I am using the Y style.
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