1965 C10 Stepside working on her **England**

[[JP]]

damn that was a tight fit down the side of your house! I noticed you have clear lenses on the front.. do you have the side lights and indicators on there?

I wired my parking lights and indicators to the double filament bulb, my lenses are orange. meaning my side lights will be orange, not ideal.. but at least it has something.

Dont think my boss can do anything hahaha, we are about 3k people in the campus, all for the same company, 7 car parks with 4 or 5 levels... they wouldnt change things just for my truck!

[Grizz1963]

Originally Posted by [JP]

damn that was a tight fit down the side of your house! I noticed you have clear lenses on the front.. do you have the side lights and indicators on there?

I wired my parking lights and indicators to the double filament bulb, my lenses are orange. meaning my side lights will be orange, not ideal.. but at least it has something.

Dont think my boss can do anything hahaha, we are about 3k people in the campus, all for the same company, 7 car parks with 4 or 5 levels... they wouldnt change things just for my truck!

My park lights were wired as indicators, spaghetti loom. ALL THE WIRING WAS TERRIBLE with dead wires mixed with active, all sorts of crazy connectors etc.
mate Martin helped a lot in the beginning as he is a bit clever with stuff like that.

I have removed the whole original loom and all its patches and hodges.

Bought a complete, new E-Z wiring loom that we will fit when the time comes.

I will use clear lenses and Amber light bulbs.

My reverse lights will become indicators too, and the brake and drive lights out rear will do just that.

Still looking for a pair of minute, Chinese made LED spotlights to fit on the underside of the 67-72 rear bumper I am fitting.

Because I reverse down the drive, Illumination is kinda necessary, though I can do it, as long as the garage lights are on as a beacon.

[[JP]]

my wiring is kind of original, most of it is there, so its easier to trace and figure things out.

So the parking lights you had were wired as it should be in the US (parking light and indicators in the same cluster)

So if you are using clear lenses and orange bulbs and wire them as indicators, where are you going to put your sidelights?
or are you using headlights with side light included in it?

[Grizz1963]

Originally Posted by [JP]

my wiring is kind of original, most of it is there, so its easier to trace and figure things out.

So the parking lights you had were wired as it should be in the US (parking light and indicators in the same cluster)

So if you are using clear lenses and orange bulbs and wire them as indicators, where are you going to put your sidelights?
or are you using headlights with side light included in it?

I have that set of 24 volt LED lights to consider, or other modern replacements, as I will replace the originals.

I like a lot of light.

Yes, side lights and indicators were together, UK style.

[[JP]]

Bit more done today to finalise jobs... tidied up the wiring on the front...



fitted these things..got them cheap off ebay. curb crawlers, seen them before, not really sure if useful but was cheap, so why not. might take them off soon as not really sure on the look of them or useful


on the parts I ordered from the US was a right hand mirror.. obviously doesnt match the old one, so its off to a mate to give it a patina job..


Also got a set of door weather strip... LMC part 38-5977..
fitted it and then the door couldnt close..? something I done wrong? surely it can only go one way which is with the 'fat' side of the rubber facing out?

[Ronzo]

Haven't seen those curb feelers since I was a kid, saved whitewalls back then. Pretty cool.

[[JP]]

right.. so to update this thread and after I've been fixing other more important bits, this evening I turned back to the indicators.
on my stubborn quest to use the old crap looking orange indicators I got the holders out the centre by folding the metal in and pushing it out.... now, how am I going to keep the new bulb holders in place? any ideas?

[[JP]]

So.. got my original wiper switch and heater switch and cabling in the post today.

now could someone just confirm i'm doing this right?
I have received the original wiper switch for my C10, currently mine is on/off/squirt, but the original one is twist for 2 speed positions and press the middle button for the squirty bit.
The washer pump is attached to the wiper motor, but the original pump is not man enough so I wired a universal one I used for MOT. Now i want to get that universal one working with the push button on the original switch

here's a photo of the switch:


This is how the original wiring diagram is


and this is a description of how to test if my pump was working (before I had the original switch with me)

to test the pump hook a fused +12V feed to the #2 "power" terminal. Then run a small jumper wire from the #4 "power" terminal over to one of the "washer" terminals (doesn't matter which one).

Then to simulate the 2-speed dash switch, you can use a couple of jumper wires. To run the motor on low speed, jumper both the #1 "high" and #3 "low" terminals to ground. Similarly, to operate the motor on high speed, only jumper the #1 "high" terminal to
ground (leaving #3 disconnected).

Note that these motors have a built-in park switch that will continue to run the motor after the switch is turned off and only stop once it reaches the parked position. But in order to test that feature, you have to ground the motor's metal case.

The washer is mechanically driven off the motor's gearbox. So to test the washer you have to run the motor on either low or high speed as described above. Then jumper the remaining "washer" terminal to ground. That should cause the washer solenoid to click and engage the pump drive mechanism. At that point, you can disconnect the ground jumper from the "washer" terminal and with the motor still running, the pump should continue to go through about 3 or 4 cycles before the pumping mechanism automatically disengages.

So, taking in account the above and that I had to short the second washer tab to ground (which is the dark blue that goes to the switch) am I safe to assume that if I connect the negative side of the new pump to that tab, then it will short to the ground, making contact and activating the pump?
Like this?

[60chevyjim]

if you can get the light housings off the truck , you could tack weld them from the back side . or if they wont come off put a couple small tack welds on from the front ,let the socket stick out 1/8 of an inch so you can tack to the outside of it .
the lights look like 55 chevy pickup truck lights.
you could just get a new set if they don't cost too much.
ps: the truck looks good with the big wheels back on it

[[JP]]

Right…. Time to update this!

So, after thinking I had everything working with the new wipers switch, all tested with wires, when I went to fit it all, it didn’t work.
Everytime I turned ignition on the washer pump would just come on straight away…
With help from users here (and brading on the emails, thanks!) managed to get it all working as it should – 2 speeds on the motor and water coming out at the press of a button.
The problem was the dark blue wire from the old pump… when connected to the switch it would make the new washer pump be on all the time…. So once that was out the circuit all was good.

Old ON/OFF switch





Once this was sorted the next job was heater/blower switch
Managed to buy the wiper switch and the whole heater/blower contraption in the US and got a friend to send it over. I didn’t need all the heater ducting so that stayed in the US and he sent the switches over.
Everything is connected up at the blower, cable etc… but for some reason the blower stopped working, so might need a new motor, need to get that opened up and have a look inside



My truck only had LH mirror, so I ordered a RH from LMC truck.. obviously was new and didn’t match the old, so gave both to a mate to spray, match them and make it look old. Photos really don’t show it properly though..




And then I took the truck to its MOT, so I could ask for UK plates..


On the way there I broke down, when I tried to accelerate a bit more she started to cough and splutter and died. When tried to start the battery was flat as a pancake.
After a few tests on the battery etc meant the alternator or regulator was dead…… I ordered a new alternator with built in regulator and then the fun started regarding wiring.

I found out the previous owner loved crimped wires and insulation tape.
It’s almost like he didn’t have long enough wires, so just crimped bits together to make the length he needed….

The wire from ignition switch to the coil, instead of being one single wire is 3 wires crimped together… why?!? Why?!?




And then It all started with a simple wiring diagram, to show how all would be connected to the new alt/reg


From there we moved on to include a bit more detail of how everything was currently connected…


Then…. A diagram how everything would be connected with the new alt/reg, but on this drawing I’m missing the connection from battery to starter motor and alt/reg


From there.. a new one, how everything is but now including the messy wiring with the fans


And, after a lot of help from brading on the background (can’t thank him enough) the latest wiring diagram and the one I’ll start working on Saturday:


Meawhile, this arrived in the post!! Plates ordered!!


Also bought a load of extra bits in a box someone was selling, in there was these headlights, brand new and look like they will be brighter. Have the little side light inside and separate – so guess what? I could wire the parking lights to those instead of the orange indicators as is now… yeh more wiring, don’t think so! I’ll leave it a couple of months till I tackle wiring again!


And that’s it, that’s where we are now.
Loads of wire and relays and stuff being delivered this week ready for the fun and games at the weekend.
Alternator was shipped in a flight yesterday from the US, should get it next week.

[mjh1965]

Great work ,and great diagrams for everyone to see well done .

[[JP]]

Got home today and had a bunch of wires and this waiting for me.... guess I'll be busy during the weekend!

[Grizz1963]

Originally Posted by mjh1965

Great work ,and great diagrams for everyone to see well done .

This is so true as Martin says because we all learn from each other.

I love to share and help people avoid making the same mistakes I have made.

[[JP]]

Well... another update.
Spent about 5h on the wiring today.... gezzz I've never seen so many crimped wires everywhere!

Anyway, started by taking the old regulator out etc..
then decided to make a bracket for the new relays to use the same holes the old regulator used... but now not sure if its too close to the engine?
I'm putting that plastic conduit all around the wires, but not sure if its too close? I can still change its location, as there's some slack on the cables and I havent done the other end of the wires (coil, alternator, etc connections)

anyway... was time to sort this mess!! wires everywhere, today even found the wire from the firewall to the battery was made of 3 wires..another one like this! and was routed over the engine, so I replaced it with one single wire, going along the firewall, under the heater box and over the right wheel arch.




so.. got all my wires, relays, fuses together and got to work


made a bracket for the relays and started wiring things in






then fitted it in place.. what do you guys thing? too close to engine?
bear in mind I'm still going to tidy up the wires a bit more and put the plastic ducting around.




the wires with the white zip tie are the 'entrance' to the engine...
this is where the wires to the coil, alternator and fuel pump are going to 'enter' the engine area

you can also see here on this photo that the wiring for the fans is now simplified and tidy inside conduit



More tomorrow!

[60chevyjim]

hi I don't know if it would help on your truck but
on my truck I just put a one wire alternator on it
to make things ezr .

[[JP]]

A one wire alternator?
Like what I'm doing now then? Just has one wire that goes to the generator light and the other 2 to the battery?

[60chevyjim]

no it just has the one thick red wire no small wires .
I bought it on ebay for about $75 with tax and shipping and it is chrome too .
this may be a different seller , but it is the same as the one I bought

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110A-CHROME-...VWCFKT&vxp=mtr

[[JP]]

Ohhh didn't know those ones.... sounds like magic with just one wire!

[[JP]]

That’s it!
Wiring finished…..
Managed to do it all over the weekend, ripped all the mess out and put new in, routed some wires a bit better as they were crossing over the engine, etc…
Now just waiting for alternator to get here this week and I’ll be on the road!

From and old mess


To a new organised mess:

[Grizz1963]

Now that looks great !!!!

Well done.

I would have gone to sit in a corner, sucked my thumb and cried.

I can do the cosmetic stuff, but mechanics and electrickery are all a dark art to me.

[[JP]]

So... here's another update!
Alternator got here yesterday, fitted it today as soon as I got home from work!! finished the last wires to it and voila!



got in the cab, turned the key and hey presto!! I have a working generator light!!
cranked it.. it started..ran for 1 second and died..
tried to start again.. battery didn't have enough juice! I had 12.28 on the battery.

got my car in front of the truck, connected the jump cables, pumped the pedal twice.. cranked it.. ran for 1 second died.. damn!
tried cranking again and not enough juice on the battery.

being on my own I had no one to put the revs up on my car while i tried to crank the truck, so left it... have put the battery on charge and will try again tomorrow. Hopefully its just a case of the battery being low.

what else could stop it from keep running? it was fine before...
I thought maybe fuel pump? but its wired to one of the relays so that should be working... unless the fuse on the relay blew.. mmhh... need to check.

[[JP]]

Well.. I woke up at 6am and couldnt go back to sleep so came to work early. Done this little drawing while here.. looks a bit better than my manual drawing.
Will try and tidy it up a bit more.

[[JP]]

Well.. I woke up at 6am and couldnt go back to sleep so came to work early. Done this little drawing while here.. looks a bit better than my manual drawing.
Will try and tidy it up a bit more.

[[JP]]

here's a more tidy version

[[JP]]

Well.. found what the problem was.
I noticed I couldnt hear the fuel pump going, got the outlet hose out, cranked it and yep.... no fuel coming out.

So after a few tests bypassing the relays and some wiring etc, I found what the problem was!
the connection at the coil! On the coil I have a wire coming from the ignition and a wire that feeds the 3 relays, which in turn feed the 2 fans and the fuel pump. If the nut on the coil is done too tight there's no power going from the coil to the relays.... I had to undo the nut a bit and then all was good.

The truck now starts, runs, and I have a working Generator light on the dash!

next things, in its due time:

- Connect back the original steering wheel horn. Currently is a push button on the dash, connected straight to the horn. Will be adding a relay to connect on the original wire that has been cut in the engine bay
- The new headlights I bought have a side light built in, so I'll be wiring parking lights switch position into this. that way when I'm on the switch first position I'll have side lights in the headlights (white), in the original parking lights (orange) and rear lights
- Connect the original dash oil light. Wiring is all there but wire was connected at engine bay, will connect this to the oil sender (its a different engine but I'm guessing an oil sender is an oil sender no matter what engine)
- Fit more guages. Currently I only have engine temp gauge. Planning on having Engine Temp, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Amps

All in its due time.
Hopefully, if I have time, I also plan to do a pretty wiring diagram of all this. Might help someone else in the future.