47-55.1 AD wiring

[Matt_50]

How bout this?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/lincoln-ele...IaAqVbEALw_wcB

[dsraven]

those work fine and can be used in a vice as well.
if you have a gm distributor that is fairly big around at the wire towers then in is likely an hei. it should get battery power through a 12 ga wire when the key is in start or run position. these run best with 14 volts. if the wiring set you have was for a points truck then use a different set of wires, probably custom made by you, to supply voltage to the coil. the points vehicles had 2 wires that fed the coil, one was battery voltage to start the truck, the other was ballast resistor voltage, usually about 9v, to run the truck. these wires are also too small to run voltage to the hEI unit. the HEI coil wire was usually a pink kinda color and will plug into the distributor on the rearmost terminal of the plug closest to the outside of the plug in bock. the other one is for the tach and doesn't need to have a wire in the plug.check the video below for a better explanation.

here is a link to a video showing the HEI wiring

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5us-Zv1vbcc

here is a pic of an HEI unit.

https://www.amazon.ca/ACDelco-934408...40622144&psc=1

[Matt_50]

I do have two wires... one labeled "coil" the other labeled "tach".

I assumed the coil wirewould run straight to distributor for power?

[Matt_50]

Just looked, that coil wire has a 30 amp fuse...

[Matt_50]

Dsraven, are welding cables sizes the same as AWG?

Is a #2 = 2 gauge?

[Matt_50]

Can you guys help me make sure I have these right?

Above oil filter.... oil temp?

Passenger side of block.... oil pressure?

Driver side, just under manifold.... coolant temp?



And a picture of my starter. If I wire it to the ford solenoid... will I need a jumper wire on the starter itself coming off the power input?

[Matt_50]

Oops, here's picture of starter. As for the electric choke... the wire from fuse box goes to the 2nd plug and it's done right?

[Matt_50]

On my starter... I need a jumper wire between those two posts. I then run a wire from relay to the bigger stud on starter, which is opposite the power side. To activate the ford style relay I need to run power to only the s terminal through the ignition switch, or I guess it goes through neutral safety switch first, am I right?

Second series, you modified my diagram and showed a wire from s terminal and a ignition power wire to gm starter... if a jumper is used, I don't need the wire from gm starter to ignition anymore right?

[Second Series]

That sounds right. On a typical set up the battery would be connected to that big terminal. If you had a problem with the starter not working, and suspected the key switch, you could put a screwdriver across the big and small terminal to see if the starter spins. You'll need to energize the small terminal, so yes, put a jumper. Years ago a friend had a mustang that would sometimes fail to stop starting, turn the key to start, starts, release the key, starter motor continues to spin. Every time was a frantic race to get the battery disconnected. If I knew then what I know now...Could be the starter solenoid was not releasing.

[Matt_50]

Im slowly getting this figured out, thanks!

Now to figure out those sensors...


Got a bunch of goodiesin the mail today.

Brake light switch.
Headlight switch.
Ignition switch.
Ford starter relay.

Fan, it fits! I need to figure out how to mount it, I'm assuming using provided zip ties isn't ideal???

Yesterday I got some wiring harness wrap tape, I'll use it where there are gaps in loom.

May have already mentioned but I also got some dual/glue heat shrink.

[Matt_50]

Remember the 50 dollar gauges? I think this is a great temporary setup. Need a little adjusdtment and I need to go get some hold down nuts.

[Matt_50]

Got a little off subject on another thread but a couple things make a lot more sense now. I installed my two terminal blocks. The 10ga wire in the kit goes from the positive side of the solenoid back into the cab. I put a terminal block in that line. A fusible link or circuit breaker needs to go in before the 10ga goes back into the cab but I'm not clear what size to get. 50 amp? 100 amp?

From that 1st block I ran a 10ga wire to the 2nd block I put on the driver side inner fender for my relays to reach. 10ga is enough since the original wire is 10ga right? I'm also not clear what size breakers I need for headlight and fan relays...

I got the starter solenoid on and I have the alternator wires almost done. Hooked up the oil pressure sender, distributor power coolant temp sender, and the electric choke wire. And I mounted the fan, just not wired yet.

[Matt_50]

Didn't get a picture but I got the low and high beam relays mounted and wired.

I also wired 2 relays for my fan. Following Mark's advice at MAD electrical. Mounted temp switch/sender in the manifold, where I removed heater hose port. Not sure if I should move it to a hose or get a probe type...

I had a few wires I had to redo... I think three where I forgot to put heat shrink first lol.

[Matt_50]

Got a couple things done today. My truck came with two dome lights, there were extra stuff under the seat. So I had an extra one if I messed this up lol.

I took one apart to see how it was wired. Big surprise, old wires with insulation that kinda fell apart if I messed with it. I took the contact out to see how it was put together. And with some advice from Deve at Deves TechNet, I found another contact and got it back in working order. These lights take a single wire contact and I just happened to have a couple of new unopened license plate lights I have had for years.

I had to play with it a bit. Looks like you could easily make your own if you had the right terminal end or even just solder on the end of a wire. Anyways the license plate contact had a couple rubber pieces and a spring. No matter what combination I did, adding pieces and taking away, I couldn't get it and a bulb to fit.

But, I could reuse the little plastic piece and spring from the original wire. I added a little piece a heatshrink on the end, I'd hate for the spring and wire to touch. Using the original pieces, it fit just fine and a ring terminal on the other end and it was done! Now to actually install it.

Also mounted my horns from the donor behind the grille.


I'll post pictures when I get home.

[Matt_50]

Forgot to post the pics.

[Matt_50]

Couple more.

[Matt_50]

My gauges have lights in them. How do I wire the power for just the lights? Do they stay on all the time or can I wire the power wire for just the lights over to headlight switch?


One light for each gauge. And here's a picture of the headlight switch wiring.

[Matt_50]

Thanks! Could I run off that same spot on frame for the body too? Or is it better to drill a second hole?

And engine to body is not needed?

[72Blazer San Jose CA]

I put EZ Wiring in Old Cars and Trucks works fine. Your gauges and turn signals slight mods depending what you put in also light switch

[Matt_50]

So far it hasn't been too bad. I got it running for a few minutes earlier today and no smoke!

Couple problems though. Horn stays on without even the steering wheel on. I'm not sure where but I'm guessing a ground somewhere in the wire.

Next, headlights work but turn signals need some attention. Only passenger side works. And the turn signal switch is new.

[NeoJuice]

make sure you have a good ground. I remember I had issues as well with my turn signals b/c of a bad ground wire.

[Matt_50]

Earlier I tested the hazards. They work fine. Could I still have a bad ground?

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

Earlier I tested the hazards. They work fine. Could I still have a bad ground?

When I did all my wiring I mocked everything up before hand and labeled all my wires with tape so when the final install happened I would just need to connect everything and wrap in loom.

Proceeded with the install and and got everything done & cleaned up and I had issues with my signals. I checked the ground and even tore everything out of the wire loom back to the fuse box thinking I must have split or maybe cut a wire.

Turns out one of the pins got pushed out in the GM 4 1/2" column connector. Once I fixed the pin and pushed it back together everything worked. Then I had to re-do all the loom and tape & mounting all over again.

So check your column connector. I didn't even clue in until that was the last spot and boy was I pissed after doing all that work. So take my advise

[65blackfleetside]

Another vote for the Speedway Harness. Excellent instructions, good quality.
I am hesitant to buy anymore electronics off of ebay or amazon that are not through a reputable source. I have been burnt several times lately with generic replacement batteries and other electronic equipment off Amazon and EBAY . The Chinese love cloning these electronic components with inferior materials they then sell it to us Americans looking for the "best deal." In my case the stuff worked for a short amount of time- but then failed. Where ever you shop Buy from a reputable source.

[Matt_50]

I'll play with it some more. I checked the grounds at the lights and I don't have loom on yet because I was afraid I'd have to chase something lol.

EZ wasn't so bad. But for a first time wiring I wish the instructions had been a little more clear.