Project Screamer - '72 GMC K2500 + DD 4-53T

[OutlawDrifter]

Glad it's running, bummer about the compression!

[lower50's]

I love the sound of those motors. that sucks but I'm sure you will figure it out soon.

[DieselSJ]

Pull the injectors and pour some Marvel Mystery Oil in there and let it sit for a few days.

[burnitg]

Originally Posted by DieselSJ

Pull the injectors and pour some Marvel Mystery Oil in there and let it sit for a few days.

Good idea. I’ll give it some thought. Because it’s a 2 stroke, I may be able to soak only 2 cylinders at a time. Otherwise, the oil will just go through the intake ports into the air box.

[burnitg]

Can’t stop grinning...

I tested the Jake brakes. They work great. The sound puts a smile on my face every time. Even though I know that I’ll have to overhaul the engine, I can’t stop grinning...

I also tested the mechanical tachometer. It works well - just a little bouncing. I think that a new cable will solve that problem.

[lower50's]

Try putting some thin oil in the tack cable.

[burnitg]

Originally Posted by DieselSJ

Pull the injectors and pour some Marvel Mystery Oil in there and let it sit for a few days.

I gave the Marvel Mystery Oil a try and it seems to have helped. I can now start the engine at 60 F without ether. Thanks for the tip.

I also think that the governor is calling for too much fuel while starting. It makes lots of white smoke and drips raw fuel from the air box drain. I started it while manually controlling the fuel and it starts easier with less fuel. I’m going to replace the governor so I’ll set it correctly then.

[DieselSJ]

Originally Posted by burnitg

I gave the Marvel Mystery Oil a try and it seems to have helped. I can now start the engine at 60 F without ether. Thanks for the tip.

I also think that the governor is calling for too much fuel while starting. It makes lots of white smoke and drips raw fuel from the air box drain. I started it while manually controlling the fuel and it starts easier with less fuel. I’m going to replace the governor so I’ll set it correctly then.

Awesome!

Need some video of it running.

[renegade6]

Try checking for a leaky injector if you have excess fuel.

Just make sure you have a clipboard or something to plug the intake after the first start with a new governor.


QUOTE=burnitg;8443229]I gave the Marvel Mystery Oil a try and it seems to have helped. I can now start the engine at 60 F without ether. Thanks for the tip.

I also think that the governor is calling for too much fuel while starting. It makes lots of white smoke and drips raw fuel from the air box drain. I started it while manually controlling the fuel and it starts easier with less fuel. I’m going to replace the governor so I’ll set it correctly then.[/QUOTE]

[rodbearing]

The governor puts the injector rack at full fuel to get started then backs off after running. You might just want to run it for a while and see if things improve. You might have some stuck piston rings also causing the white smoke. You could check compression and also do a governor/rack adjust. What injectors are you using? Keep up the good work. Greg

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by rodbearing

The governor puts the injector rack at full fuel to get started then backs off after running. You might just want to run it for a while and see if things improve. You might have some stuck piston rings also causing the white smoke. You could check compression and also do a governor/rack adjust. What injectors are you using? Keep up the good work. Greg

I agree, I'd get it running and let it get up to operating temp, let it cool back off, repete, a couple of times and see how it does after that. You most likely have some stuck rigs from it setting.

[Dieselwrencher]

The reason you have less smoke at half rack on start up is because you are introducing less fuel into the cylinder. That white smoke is un burnt fuel. I'm betting it will come out of it once you work it good especially since you say it is already getting better. Just don't let it idle for long periods. That may not help. Idle it up some and that should help prevent washing down the weaker cylinders.

[burnitg]

Starting aids...

Detroit Diesels do not normally have starting aids. The aid that I have seen and heard of most often is a fixed ether injection system. I'm not fan of ether - I think that it is very hard on the engine. For me, it is a last resort.

So, I started thinking about other options. My '91 Dodge W250 CTD and my '61 Ford 641D backhoe have inlet air heaters. I looked into the available heaters and found one that would fit into the air inlet housing.



I purchased the appropriate aluminum bung (M22 X 1.5) and welded it into the air inlet housing. The heater is in the center of the airflow coming from the intercooler - the perfect spot.



I blasted and painted the housing and then re-installed it on the engine.



I'm happy with the way it looks. Now, I have to paint the rest of the engine...

Several years ago, I purchased a set of pristine '72 doors from a member of this board. I installed them to see how they look.




When the rear gap is perfect and they line up with the body lines, the window frame gaps are not even. The window frames are straight, the cab is not. I haven't decided if I will do anything about this or not. I know that the fits were not good from the factory and I know that the previous doors did not fit better.

It offends my sensibilities to make straight window frames curved to fit the cab and I can't see a good way to modify the cab to make it straight...

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work on the intake heater! Could you fool the eye with the gap difference by trying to move the drip rail in where it is more gappy looking? I've had some that were rolled towards the cab before making the gaps look weird.

[regan wilson]

We took a wood block and a hammer to tune mine into shape. It's easy to do with the windows out. Everything will go back in fine.

[burnitg]

Originally Posted by regan wilson

We took a wood block and a hammer to tune mine into shape. It's easy to do with the windows out. Everything will go back in fine.

Regan:

Did the wood block & hammer work on the A pillar?

Thanks,
Burnett

[regan wilson]

I don't think you are going to move the a-pillar.lol
Put the wood block on the edge of the door facing the pillar.
At least you can even up the gap. You might have to go back and spot weld
the frame to the top of the door.

[regan wilson]

I don't think you are going to move the a-pillar.lol
Put the wood block on the edge of the door facing the pillar.
At least you can even up the gap. You might have to go back and spot weld
the frame to the top of the door.

[burnitg]

Saved it!

I have been ignoring my air filter box interference problem for 18 months. In fact, I purchased an universal air filter to install because I was convinced that I couldn't make the one that I fabbed work. Here's the interference from post # 171:



I finally got around to looking at installing the new filter the other day. Just for grins, I put the air box into the truck and discovered that by cutting off the stop on the hinge and scotching the box forward just a bit, I could make it fit. Here it is installed.





I welded a new stop on the hinge a bit further down so it should work just fine.

Woohoo!

[OutlawDrifter]

In the words of John "Hannibal" Smith...."I love it when a plan comes together!".

Great work!

[lower50's]

Looking great!! nice to see all the little problems are working out for you.

[rodbearing]

Ah Ha! Sometimes you have to put things off like that to think about them for a while. I am that way. Now you can check that one off the list! Great job!

[burnitg]

I spoke too soon...

It happens all the time, I think that I'm done with a part of the truck and it turns out that I'm not. I posted a while ago that I was done with chassis mods. I wasn't.

I knew that I was going to have to move the front and rear bumpers up to compensate for my 2" body lift. I thought that I would just fabricate some new brackets and that would be it. After looking at the way that the front bumper is mounted to the chassis, I decided that modifying the chassis was the best solution.

Here's the truck with the body lifted and the bumper in its normal position.



Here's the chassis before I started cutting.



Here's the end of the chassis tacked into place.



Here are the modifications complete.



Here's the truck after the modifications.



I'll probably choose to modify the chassis again to move the receiver hitch up 2". I wont know until I mount the bed.

[burnitg]

It's a thing of beauty..

I've been spending most of my time prepping the body & chassis for blasting and paint - boring stuff not worthy of a post.

But, I took the time to design a custom fuel tank. Like most folks, I'm not comfortable with 26 gallons of fuel, even Diesel, right behind the seat so an exterior design was a given. The truck had an auxiliary tank; but, I'm not happy with the "through the bed fill" and it has holes in it. I'm also not happy with putting the tank in the spare tire spot. I designed a tank that fits in the place of the old auxiliary tank and fills through the wheel well. I had Boyd Welding make me one from 1/8" aluminum. I received it yesterday.



It's gorgeous! I'll be designing one for the right side soon.

[regan wilson]

I wondered why there haven't been any updates. I'll be looking forward to the final assembly. The frame looks good. Hopefully the sheet metal comes back clean.