Make it handle

[robnolimit]

Ok, lots of choices, and matches. Or, mis-matches. A panhard rod does on thing better than other locators, and that is that it actively locates the rear roll center. In the front, a high roll center, and a low center of gravity is a good aproach. But in the back, the center of gravity is not very low, and unless you start moving things down and back, thats just the way it is. Having a low roll center will produce a good 'bite' in and out of a corner, but it produces more body roll. So, a combo of a low panhard rod and a light sway bar will give you great results. Triangulated 4-bars, while user friendly are not my favorate. They will need a sway bar to cut body roll, but you can't really induce any bite. Check out "speedway enginering" for sway bar parts and rates. Also, "race junk. com" you can find splined bars an arms from the circle and sprint crowd. If you are on stock style trailing arms, first switch to long, adjustable style panhard rod. We have them, as do others.

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Ok, lots of choices, and matches. Or, mis-matches. A panhard rod does on thing better than other locators, and that is that it actively locates the rear roll center. In the front, a high roll center, and a low center of gravity is a good aproach. But in the back, the center of gravity is not very low, and unless you start moving things down and back, thats just the way it is. Having a low roll center will produce a good 'bite' in and out of a corner, but it produces more body roll. So, a combo of a low panhard rod and a light sway bar will give you great results. Triangulated 4-bars, while user friendly are not my favorate. They will need a sway bar to cut body roll, but you can't really induce any bite. Check out "speedway enginering" for sway bar parts and rates. Also, "race junk. com" you can find splined bars an arms from the circle and sprint crowd. If you are on stock style trailing arms, first switch to long, adjustable style panhard rod. We have them, as do others.

That's some good info. So would you suggest going with a parallel 4 link or what would you see as the ideal rear setup? I completely understand not going with a triangulated 4 link, I have one, but am looking to redo and go with a parallel or something else because of the pinion change and its affects on traction from what I understand. Any thoughts on that? Sorry I'm coming from having an IRS setup in a bmw e30 and moving towards something to build. I understand making the truck lower and what's needed, but pinion angles and ideals for traction I'm still learning.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by leftcoast66

That's some good info. So would you suggest going with a parallel 4 link or what would you see as the ideal rear setup? I completely understand not going with a triangulated 4 link, I have one, but am looking to redo and go with a parallel or something else because of the pinion change and its affects on traction from what I understand. Any thoughts on that? Sorry I'm coming from having an IRS setup in a bmw e30 and moving towards something to build. I understand making the truck lower and what's needed, but pinion angles and ideals for traction I'm still learning.

3-link would be best.