Need a quality US Made HEI recommendation for my 250 I6

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by 72SB

Unfortunately you are wrong. Believe what you want. External ballast and resistor wires are for points dizzy.

Pertronix specifically says in any of their units to eliminate resistor wire if converting over to points. There are several threads on this forum about replacing the resistor wire for HEI be it a GM unit or Pertronix. Read up

Agreed lower voltage will not "immediately" kill a HEI module...but it will after time

So it sounds like we've narrowed it down to possibly the pickup coil or that ballast wire.

I'm sure when the PO put in the more modern engine, that wire was not converted to a 10 gauge. Either way, that wire with all those but joints has to be redone pronto. All those connections can't be good.

Does that ballast wire go right back to the fuse box if I were to open the harness and change it entirely?

Anyone have a link to the connectors I'll need by chance?

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Any parts store will have the pickup coil or can supply it.
Another possibility is the rotor under the dist cap. The early models had a black bake light rotor that would short out to the advance plate under neath it. The replacements are colored plastic. Its highly unlikely that any of the original rotors are still out there, but it is possible

George.

[RichardJ]

>>Do you know where I could get a quality pickup coil like that? <<

As with most items, it's best to try to test if possible. I would connect a hand vacuum pump to the vacuum advance and with the engine running, operate the vacuum advance through its range several times. If one of the wires to the pickup is broken, it won't take many cycles to show itself.

[RichardJ]

>>Does that ballast wire go right back to the fuse box<<

How many ways can I say NO.

The ignition circuit never went through the fuse box. A 12 gauge wire goes directly from the ignition switch down to the inside of the hulk head connector. On the engine side of the bulk head connector it connects to the ballast wire.
The ballast wire goes down along your 6 cyl valve cover where it was crimped together with two other wires. One wire is usually yellow and it goes down to the Solenoid R terminal.
For an HEI ignition circuit this wire should be eliminated and no connection should be made to the R terminal.
The other wire crimped to the ballast wire was 14 gauge wire that then connected to the HEI.
This thread may help you.
https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...d.php?t=708975

[Fbks_Cruiser]

Don’t be so sure it is not the ignition module. I had symptoms exactly like yours. I’d be driving along and suddenly the engine would quit running just like shutting off the key. Pull over and it would start right up again. No symptoms anything like fuel starvation. I went through all the testing others have already described including testing the pickup coil, a dedicated power supply directly from battery to the hei, dedicated ground to the distributor. Even though I was sure the symptoms did not indicate a fuel delivery problem I checked that as well. I still had the intermittent quit running issue. Finally I replaced the ignition module in the HEI. No problems since then and that was 3 years ago. Modules are fairly inexpensive. It is worth trying the swap. If nothing else, you’ll have a spare.

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by Fbks_Cruiser

Don’t be so sure it is not the ignition module. I had symptoms exactly like yours. I’d be driving along and suddenly the engine would quit running just like shutting off the key. Pull over and it would start right up again. No symptoms anything like fuel starvation. I went through all the testing others have already described including testing the pickup coil, a dedicated power supply directly from battery to the hei, dedicated ground to the distributor. Even though I was sure the symptoms did not indicate a fuel delivery problem I checked that as well. I still had the intermittent quit running issue. Finally I replaced the ignition module in the HEI. No problems since then and that was 3 years ago. Modules are fairly inexpensive. It is worth trying the swap. If nothing else, you’ll have a spare.

Very interesting, thanks for sharing! Sounds exactly like my problem! I found an AC Delco Ignition Module from Rock Auto which will be about $85 shipped which isn't to bad considering I'm in Canada. I think I'm gonna order one up. Might as well slowly replace parts in the HEI until I find the problem.

I've also gotta replace that ballast wire..

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

>>Does that ballast wire go right back to the fuse box<<

How many ways can I say NO.

The ignition circuit never went through the fuse box. A 12 gauge wire goes directly from the ignition switch down to the inside of the hulk head connector. On the engine side of the bulk head connector it connects to the ballast wire.
The ballast wire goes down along your 6 cyl valve cover where it was crimped together with two other wires. One wire is usually yellow and it goes down to the Solenoid R terminal.
For an HEI ignition circuit this wire should be eliminated and no connection should be made to the R terminal.
The other wire crimped to the ballast wire was 14 gauge wire that then connected to the HEI.
This thread may help you.
https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...d.php?t=708975

Great thread, thanks for the link!

I was going to order the premade Year One wire and they want $34 dollars shipping to Canada on a $12 dollar part..Rediculous!

Anyone know of a more reasonable source for a wire like this?
https://www.yearone.com/Product/PartSearchResult/L00510

I can't really justify buying the crimping tool and the two connectors just for one wire

[KQQL IT]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/14403041569...mis&media=COPY tach lead as well

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Yamariv

I'm not sure what company of HEI to go with but don't want cheap off shore stuff, preferably US made quality.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...ine-6-cylinder
Seems like only a few years ago, I thought $300-something was a lot for an MSD HEI!

However, I wouldn't jump right away on your current distributor being the problem. Could be a poor connection from ignition switch to the HEI +12v terminal. Or possibly a poor coil ground. I have seen both cause intermittent problems.

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by MikeB

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...ine-6-cylinder
Seems like only a few years ago, I thought $300-something was a lot for an MSD HEI!

However, I wouldn't jump right away on the your current distributor being the problem. Could be a poor connection from ignition switch to the HEI +12v terminal. Or possibly a poor coil ground. I have seen both cause intermittent problems.

Wow, almost $500 Canadian plus shipping for a new HEI, that's more than I thought!

I think I'm gonna order a new AC Delco Module and Pickup Coil from Rock Auto. Looks like I can pick both those up for just over $100 shipped which isn't too bad.

I'm also going to replace that resistor style power wire with a nice 10 gauge replacement. Just have to find a way to re use the original connectors :S

Hopefully those 3 things make the difference and bring me back to a reliable spark

[dmjlambert]

I suggest check the rotor shaft for excessive amounts of play before you get too much into replacing parts. Others have mentioned NAPA has Packard 56 terminals, and although I have not bought the terminals from them I see their website has them. You may not find the exact gauge you need but should be able to crimp the terminal on with pliers and solder it. I think their website is pretty bad for searching and they may have a better selection if you just walk in and shop. It seems NAPA calls the connectors GM56 series.

[dmjlambert]

I also suggest if you remove the resistor wire from your wiring harness, don't discard it. It may be of value to somebody with a points distributor and you can sell it or give it. I don't think that wire is reproduced.

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

I suggest check the rotor shaft for excessive amounts of play before you get too much into replacing parts. Others have mentioned NAPA has Packard 56 terminals, and although I have not bought the terminals from them I see their website has them. You may not find the exact gauge you need but should be able to crimp the terminal on with pliers and solder it. I think their website is pretty bad for searching and they may have a better selection if you just walk in and shop. It seems NAPA calls the connectors GM56 series.

Thanks for the info, yeah would be awesome if they carried the connectors in store! Talk about their website being horrible, with all that info, they had nothing come up for those connectors on the Canadian Napa site..Frustrating

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

>>The problem with your HEI may be in the wiring that powers it.<<

I agree, but it could be the pickup coil wires in the HEI that are constantly flexing with the vacuum advance. It doesn't sound like a module problem.

Can someone please clarify, this may be a dumb question but is this pickup coil doing the same job as the coil that is in the HEI distributor cap? Is this coil different?

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Yamariv

I'm also going to replace that resistor style power wire with a nice 10 gauge replacement. Just have to find a way to re use the original connectors :S

There are lots of sources for wires and proper terminals. Also, 12ga wire is plenty big enough. It's what most aftermarket wiring harness kits use. Try Amazon for free shipping.

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/painle..._/R-DHDT-30809

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Yamariv

Can someone please clarify, this may be a dumb question but is this pickup coil doing the same job as the coil that is in the HEI distributor cap? Is this coil different?

The pickup coil and spinning reluctor generate a pulse six times per distributor revolution, and then that pulse is shaped and amplified by the module.

The module sends its pulses to the high tension coil in the cap, which sends high voltage pulses to the spark plugs.

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by MikeB

The pickup coil and spinning reluctor generate a pulse six times per distributor revolution, and then that pulse is shaped and amplified by the module.

The module sends its pulses to the high tension coil in the cap, which sends high voltage pulses to the spark plugs.

Ahh, that makes sense!! Thank you Sir

[Yamariv]

Just wanted to update this thread and the fix for anyone else having this problem down the road. Turns out it was the under powered points resistor wire. I replaced the entire wire with a nice big 10 gauge wire and ran it right to the HEI to give it full voltage. No issues at all since and I've driven the truck over 500 miles!

Thank you to everyone for your help, don't know how I would have figured out this problem without this site! Cheers

[MikeB]