My motor mounts don't look right

[11Chuck]

The chassis I'm using came with mounts already welded in. The guy I got it from said it was already set up for the sb350 i have. I've been looking at these mounts while my motor is in the machine shop and they don't look right. They look a little off center.

Anyone have an opinion? ever seen mounts like these?

[Kabwe]

IMO that does not look good at all. It looks like they offset the engine to the passenger side and uneven in height according to what I see in the pic. It also looks very Jerry rigged. I say cut them out and redo them the correct way. Are going with the stock suspension? If so the sale a tubular engine mount crossmember that should work for you.
http://compare.ebay.com/like/1606687..._lwgsi=y&cbt=y

[Scottshotrods]

I would remove as well very unsafe on how they are in place and wrong on top of that.

Justin

www.scottshotrods.com

[11Chuck]

OK.. That's what I was thinking too. The whole thing just didn't look right with the offset it has.

For my suspension I'm having Sid drop my axle 3" and using some posi leafs for the front. I think I'll go with that cross member. Thanks for the link!

[Tims37chevy]

He probly off set the mounts to make room for the steering shaft

[mr48chev]

I thought the same thing as Tim did on the offset but those things need to be cut out and redone right at the least.
I'm not fully sure of the unsafe part but those welds are pretty bad and the design of the setup leaves a lot to be desired.

I'd be willing to bet that a good lick with a sledge hammer will knock the left one off taking most of the bubble gum welds with it.

I have to agree with Kabwe on the tube crossmember style mount. I've used a few of that type over the years and the design works well and adds support to the frame when it's all welded in.

One thing though, if you are running the stock steering box, mount the box before installing the engine. The engine will have to be offset to clear the steering box unless you move the box out on the frame an inch and a half which causes other problems.

[_Ogre]

if your using a standard sbc rubber mount, that looks way too high.
the welds look like bird poop, i would not use them.
the tubes should be 3/8'' interior diameter, yours look like 1/2'' pipe.
they should be about even with the top of the frame, maybe a bit above.
the 55-59 trucks came factory with sbc with rams horn manifolds.
if you use the same manifolds the motor can be installed centered.

nothing stock here, but you can see how the motor mounts are centered and approx the same height as the top of the frame.
i use 68 truck mounts because the parts guys need a number


look at the ones zenchal just fabricated, they're a little off set to the pass side to clear the stock steering with the headers he used.
nothing wrong with the motor a bit off center, most of the ad guys have to offset the motor and many oem motors are offset.
they're a little low in my opinion but that is strictly aesthetics and they are built right to support the motor


don't be afraid to make your own, grab some 68 truck motor mounts and just do it
how ever, you really need to have the cab on to correctly mount the motor and trans.
take the trans cover off when you do it, some auto trans need a little extra bump in the cover.
follow the examples above and you should be good as gold.

[_Ogre]

also look at post #17 for what structure you need at the trans mount due to the big factory x-member being cut out.
in this thread

[11Chuck]

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm going to get the cab back on then start on those mounts before i get my motor back.

[11Chuck]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

also look at post #17 for what structure you need at the trans mount due to the big factory x-member being cut out.
in this thread

How does this look for the trans mount?

[mr48chev]

It looks like they put a little bit more effort in the trans crossmember than the motor mounts in front. It looks like some of the throw it together to get it running stuff we did in the 70's when we often did one day engine swaps.
I'd think seriously about boxing the frame along with using a crossmember style front motormount. A lot of the strength that keeps the rails straight and keeps them from being twisted over time by the weight off the cab pushing down on the cab support brackets when that crossmember is removed.

[zenchal26]

With the drop axle and springs I could not use the tube x-member motor mount, it would hit axle.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by 11Chuck

How does this look for the trans mount?

that supports the trans but does little for the frame where the big/heavy/rigid factory x-member was removed.
from post in the other thread...

Originally Posted by _Ogre

those universal mounts really don't work well with the modifications you've done to your truck.
the old x-member you cut out kept the frame from flexing and your front cab mounts from sagging.
your truck needs some structural support put back into it.

this is what i did, a little over kill but i had the material laying around
upper and lower member to keep the frame from twisting and tube support to reinforce the front cab mounts.



the center piece with the mount attached, drops out to remove the trans
notice how the stock x-members support both top and bottom flanges of the frame
this is the support you need to duplicate
all the weight on the front spring and the cab all come together where the old x-member was.

[11Chuck]

@zenchal26 - Man good to know. I'm going to get that suspension in before i weld it in then. Thanks for the heads up.

@Ogre - I see what you're saying. I can just weld in a piece of box beam as a new cross structural support, right?

[_Ogre]

not sure what your asking, just weld something in there that is substantial
and i'd try to center the motor and trans first
get your cab on, hang the motor and start fabing

you could ask zenchal to sell you the set that i sold him
they were fabricated with the stock front mounts still in place,
they will locate the motor in the stock location