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Old 09-10-2021, 03:12 PM   #1
Patch
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POR-15 Top Coat?

Has anyone used this on their frame/engine compartment and if so how did it work out?
Thanks......
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Old 09-10-2021, 05:15 PM   #2
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Re: POR-15 Top Coat?

..i wouldnt..
Quality primer and paint
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Old 09-10-2021, 08:47 PM   #3
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Re: POR-15 Top Coat?














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Old 09-11-2021, 02:11 PM   #4
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Re: POR-15 Top Coat?

Okay...2 no's....why? Expand a little?
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Old 09-11-2021, 03:37 PM   #5
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Re: POR-15 Top Coat?

It tends to fade and lose its sheen over time..best for rusty minimally prepped
surfaces. It has its place as it can be brushed on. Don't spray as it is highly toxic when atomized.
I have used it on an old trailer hitch with good results.
If it were me I would use SPI Epoxy and buy yourself a cheapy Harbor Freight gun to apply.
I'm very happy with how it worked for my inner wells and all frame and suspension parts.
As a bonus the SPI product has some UV protection where the POR does not
unless top coated with paint or?
Just my .02 hope this helps!
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Old 09-11-2021, 03:40 PM   #6
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Re: POR-15 Top Coat?

I have had good and bad luck with POR.

One tractor rim I painted turned out good.
After awhile It faded and then started flaking off.

Painted an engine and It turned out great

The conditions when painting have to be there (Temp. and Humidity affect it alot).







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Old 09-11-2021, 03:49 PM   #7
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Re: POR-15 Top Coat?

True..it wont stick to clean metal..it will stick to rust..
Copied from their website "POR-15 likes rusted surfaces best"

so if your trying to bury rust it may work for you
A buddy of mine was determined to use it on some new metal patches he welded in his car..you could take a air hose and low it off after it dried..body shop people hate it..just ask em..
It was designed for using on bridges
I wont put it on anything I have
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Old 09-12-2021, 11:19 AM   #8
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Re: POR-15 Top Coat?

The most durable chassis coating would be a two-component urethane , preferably a polyester based over a acrylic.
in 1988, when I was selling a popular rust product. I was at a show and had my displays out as usual, and the silver had a green tint. A man walked up to my stand, we talked for a while, and he mentioned to me that this primer I was selling was similar to a primer that Mobay had developed. He claimed the Mobay material had little or no sunlight sensitivity and it would do an incredible 8000 hours salt spray. He was the owner of a paint factory in New York State and he attempted this formulation, but on the way home the can burst in the trunk of his car. After that, understandably, he shied away from it. I started asking a lot of questions, but he advised me just call Mobay chemical’s tech department with my questions. You can bet Monday morning I was on the phone with Mobay, where I spoke to an elderly gentleman. Every time I mentioned the black he got a little huffy—his exact words to me were, “It’s silver, like it or lump it.” . I asked him where I could get a can of this silver and he told me to call Steelcoat in St. Louis, which I did, and they sent me a bunch of samples. The first thing I did was paint the front of the 38 Packard. It was stripped down to bare metal, and there was pitting on the top where the hood ornament went. Directions were to spray two coats, and I did exactly that. On the second coat the pitting disappeared...I couldn't believe it! Needless to say, I was happy as a little boy on Christmas.

So that’s how I discovered a way to level pitting without having to use Nitro stain—and this is when the tag line “Get rid of the Pits” was born. In addition to that, we had an airtight seal so the rust couldn't come back, AND we could use any kind of paint over it. The reason for this is it’s completely solvent proof when it dries. So in my first experiment I discovered that it worked well on clean steel, it sealed the rust airtight, didn't turn green in the sun, and dried nice and toothy for paint to adhere to it. I started doing all kinds of experiments with body fillers and glazing putties, and have had great success for many years with these techniques. Not all moisture cures are the same. It amazes me to this day how many other companies copied por-15, it also amazes me that none of these vendors ever restored a car.

Last edited by lupo; 09-12-2021 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 09-13-2021, 01:02 AM   #9
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Re: POR-15 Top Coat?

I've used a rust paint much like you are describing: fills pits, sticks to rust, chemical and uv-resistant, and it comes in Silver (or at least it did when I bought it). It's certainly a competitor to POR-15.

It looks like "Mobay" became "Miles Chemical" in the 90's, assuming I found the same company you're talking about.

Chemline acquired the assets of Steelcote in 2006, and are still in operation. They have some impressive-looking coatings.
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Old 09-13-2021, 07:31 AM   #10
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Re: POR-15 Top Coat?

Skinny you're 100% correct. These companies seem to change names every 3 years so it's hard to keep up. The Industrial Coatings world as a fascinating business. I still have the top part of that 38 Packard I painted in 1988 on a shelf in my garage. Steelcote sent me all kinds of samples they sent an epoxy you painted over oil-contaminated Steel and the epoxy would suck the oil out of the metal They sent me a can of Tilex ,after this topcoat hardened for a week it was like ceramic tile. it was hard as nails and that's your polyester urethane. I've been using industrial paint on restorations for the last 40 years my 55 Chevy is completely primed with the silver inside and out top and bottom . I use automotive colors because of their light stability . Now here comes the kicker , I clear-coated the car with a clear that they coat the bottom of jet aircraft to minimize stone chipping. it is also aso a anti-graffiti paint I dropped a Sears timing light on the front fender , it dented the fender but it didn't chip the paint . I can really be a schmuck.
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