Pipe Notch

[DWright]

stupid question, but does anyone have pics of a 60-66 with rear bags and just a pipe notch? (preferably aired out)

[DWright]

no one?

[baggedout81]

Get at shotbed,he welding some in his.I cant remember right off what size it was

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=332884&page=9

[chevytrucknut]

Like this one?
[IMG][/IMG]

[DWright]

exactly what i was was looking for, got any side pics aired out?

[60apache]

Originally Posted by chevytrucknut

Like this one?
[IMG][/IMG]

did you build that yourself

[chevytrucknut]

The notch was done by my friend Dan at Sick Industries. Its simple and works great. The cross member in front of the rear end has a small notch in it too to clear the rear end when air'd out. I had to raise the bed floor 2 inches to clear also.
[IMG][/IMG]

[CHIZZLER]

Nice truck i just got my truck back from dan. He cut the frame down and the bed. He does killer work.

[DWright]

Looks great. i assume you're running drop spindles in the front too? thats the hieght i was looking for in the rear, thanks for the pics.

[shortbed70]

Heres my pipe notch welded in

[chevytrucknut]

Originally Posted by danny piscitelli

Nice truck i just got my truck back from dan. He cut the frame down and the bed. He does killer work.

Thanks, Yes Dan does great work.


Your right dropped spindles and dropped lower control arms. I may take one of the two out and see how it sits. I think it is too much drop. The bags have to get 90% full to lift. Cross member lays out long before bags do.

[Chris65GMC]

I did a search, but does anyone have a link for a good 'how to" on the pipe notch?

[hothues70]

I've always just unbolted the rear hangers or coils and let the truck down on the axle to get my mark. Easiest way for me to figure out where to cut. Then just measure how much farther you have to go to reach the lowest point, laid out or wherever and cut ur piece of pipe to give you that much notch. Trace it on the frame, cut it out and weld it. It goes pretty quick that way. Has for me anyway.

[Chris65GMC]

Originally Posted by hothues70

I've always just unbolted the rear hangers or coils and let the truck down on the axle to get my mark. Easiest way for me to figure out where to cut. Then just measure how much farther you have to go to reach the lowest point, laid out or wherever and cut ur piece of pipe to give you that much notch. Trace it on the frame, cut it out and weld it. It goes pretty quick that way. Has for me anyway.

Whats the best pipe to use? Size / Wall? Do they sell non-galvanized pipe at home depot and such?

[protrash64]

lakeroadster; with out going into a complete engineering seminar, how do you make that calculation? Just curious.

[DWright]

Keep the pics commin' guys! i've decided that a pipe notch is all i need for what i want. i got the pipe Wednesday and will probably start in on it this tuesday night. i'll try to take some pics to show progress. from the pics it looks as though i'll get plenty of drop with a pipe notch. thanks again guys.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by protrash64

lakeroadster; with out going into a complete engineering seminar, how do you make that calculation? Just curious.

x2?

Also.... What if a pipe notch similar to what is pictured above is boxed on the inside? What effect would that have to restore that strength?

[shortbed70]

My notch I used .25 wall tubing and then used 1/4"x2" plate and welded on top of the notch to top of frame. Nothing fancy but it works.

[sailed2japan]

Without detailed engineering experiments and only sense to work with. I would say that by notching half the height of the frame, using the same grade/thickness steel, and boxing the back side, to include going a distance equal to the height of the frame forward and aft of the notch, ther would be little to no degredation of the integrity of the frame. And lets face it, if you're notching your frame, you're not planning on heavy duty work.

Oh, and the gas tank behind the axle? Really? Even a topped off 40 gal tank only weights about 300lb!

[chevytrucknut]

When my truck was in the process of having the notch welded up I stepped onto the back of the frame (all 280 lbs. of me) and could see it flex. So we then decided to add the boxed inner sides and that helped a ton. That being said .....I wouldn't tow or haul anything of serious size and weight,with any form of notch. Nor would I expect it to hold up being rear ended. They probally just fold up.So I do agree with what Lakeroaster has said. Thankfully the biggest thing I am haulin...is me.

[sailed2japan]

So, how is it after the boxing? I'm looking at the possabilty of doing this on my truck, but would still like to be able to pul a small trailer. What types of material did you use and how long is the boxed section? do you have a pic os the inside of the frame rail?

[chevytrucknut]

I think a small trailer with a lite tongue weight should be fine. But remember the further you get away from the notch the more leverage you have and it may be a bad thing. The boxed sides we used are just 3 inches longer than the notch itself. Forward they could be longer but aft of the notch is another cross member. Thats why the kits are made to bolt up on the outside, to get more length.

[daverod]

Thanks for the time to figure this out John. I knew you just were'nt talking $hit. I even kinda understand it. Minus all the numbers and stuff.

[protrash64]

Ok, thanks John.........that's cool!! Now my question is what is the difference from boxing to '' heavy structural steel members that are added to the existing frame rail.''?

Isnt that just the same as boxing on the outside of the frame? And, do the bolt holes reduce the section modulus of the frame?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by daverod

Thanks for the time to figure this out John. I knew you just were'nt talking $hit. I even kinda understand it. Minus all the numbers and stuff.

Agree 100%. I would also like to add....

Originally Posted by lakeroadster

Just trying to help.... don't shoot the messenger

There's a difference when someone criticizes a modification and/or method w/o providing the benefit of their logic on how things are affected. 'Just because' as reasoning is when people grow irritated. We can all learn from each others backrounds, educations, & experiences throughout our years.

I did consider the strength impact when reducing the height of my frame channel. I figured the use of the heavier walled material (.250" steel plate c-notch) w/boxing it in (using .1875" steel plate) would restore the majority of the strength. Seeing those numbers crunched, I'm going to re-evaluate/scrutinize my set-up & consider the possibility of plating the outer wall of my frame for additional assurance.