67-72 Electric speedo

[ls1nova71]

^^^^^ Nice job, looking real good!

[kehstr]

I'm a little confused on how we are supposed to set up the fake face plate screws, does anyone have pictures of how they set it up?

[Tinkermc]

very nice

[67c10rustbuket]

Version 1.2, without ODO reset. Simple rectangular cutout sneak peek.... ODO reset will be added and other revisions before I go full cnc production... Rear cover box will be up next week.

[wgeyer88]

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket

Version 1.2, without ODO reset. Simple rectangular cutout sneak peek.... ODO reset will be added and other revisions before I go full cnc production... Rear cover box will be up next week.

Does this mean they will be available for purchase? You can add me to the list if they are! That is one clean looking plate! My fabricated plate didn't turn out nearly as nice as yours, I think I lack some of the patience involved in fabricating a nice plate.

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by wgeyer88

Does this mean they will be available for purchase? You can add me to the list if they are! That is one clean looking plate! My fabricated plate didn't turn out nearly as nice as yours, I think I lack some of the patience involved in fabricating a nice plate.

Yeah I will make some more. I initially wanted to design and program these so I could knock them out whenever I needed (hypothetically as if I built anything fast ) I can make enough for everyone who ordered a kit from ls1nova pretty cheap. I am not a businessman or trying to get rich just a hyper anal guy with access to some machines. It will be cheap, I have to pay for the raw material but otherwise its just me goofing around in my spare time at work. I usually make parts for air conditioners....I should have my design finished in two weeks. Anyway sorry for the hijack, back to the instructions from ls1nova.

[exploderjim]

I'm interested in a kit if there is any available? Could always use the metal plate as well if they are being made yet.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by exploderjim

I'm interested in a kit if there is any available? Could always use the metal plate as well if they are being made yet.

Don't have any more at this time, but may in the future. I'll let you know when the time comes.

[cjohnson6772]

Just thinking (dangerous I know) if you devided your gear ratio in the PCM by 1.2 could you keep the original face and the 0-100 on the lens? I.e. if you had a 3.07 you would enter 2.56 in the PCM. You could also modify tire size in the same manner. Would this work?
Posted via Mobile Device

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by cjohnson6772

Just thinking (dangerous I know) if you devided your gear ratio in the PCM by 1.2 could you keep the original face and the 0-100 on the lens? I.e. if you had a 3.07 you would enter 2.56 in the PCM. You could also modify tire size in the same manner. Would this work?
Posted via Mobile Device

Kind of. You can modify the tune to make the MPH part of the speedometer work with the original face, but the problem lies in the odometer. If you just changed it in the tune and made the needle match the number of whatever speed you're going, the odometer wouldnt be correct.It has to do with the sweep of the S-10 speedo, its calibrated to the odometer. I hope that makes sense?
Posted via Mobile Device

[cjohnson6772]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Kind of. You can modify the tune to make the MPH part of the speedometer work with the original face, but the problem lies in the odometer. If you just changed it in the tune and made the needle match the number of whatever speed you're going, the odometer wouldnt be correct.It has to do with the sweep of the S-10 speedo, its calibrated to the odometer. I hope that makes sense?
Posted via Mobile Device

It does make perfect sense.
Posted via Mobile Device

[67c10rustbuket]

A few more pics

[cjohnson6772]

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket

A few more pics

You sir have great skill. Very clean work. You and ls1nova71 are both geniuses. Cash in hand. Waiting on any kit you offer. Thanks to both of you guys for sharing all of this and not keeping it your own secret. This is what makes the site great
Posted via Mobile Device

[exploderjim]

Thanks. I'll try and wait patiently until then. Great job done by the both of you.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Bigdav160]

Subscribed

You can put me down for a print if you make another run.

For the others, perhaps an old school VSS buffer from a carbed GM would drive the speedo?

[exploderjim]

Eric,

Can I ask you if its possible to make the speedo in KPH? Maybe you could put me in touch with your designer to get it done. Or a copy of the program to get it altered here. I bought a S-10 cluster here in Canada and its in Kilometers. I thought it would be cool to run it that way. Otherwise I'd end up with KM odometer and Miles on the speedo.
Thanks
Jim

[exploderjim]

Eric,

Can I ask you if its possible to make the speedo in KPH? the O would be the same and the 50 mph is the same as 80kph and 100 mph is 160 kph. Maybe you could put me in touch with your designer to get it done. Or a copy of the program to get it altered here. I bought a S-10 cluster here in Canada and its in Kilometers. I thought it would be cool to run it that way. Otherwise I'd end up with KM odometer and Miles on the speedo.
Thanks
Jim

[MalibuSSwagon]

GM DRAC/VSSB Calibration

If you are carbed, this is what you need to drive an electric speedo. They are easy to find in 92-95 Chevy/GMC full size trucks, its a white box mounted under the ECM. Make sure you take the pigtail as well.

Easy to wire it too. Just de-pin wires you won't be using and braid together the VSS sensor wires to prevent interference. Connect 12V+ switched thru a 2A fuse, ground, and the C15 VSS output to the speedometer input. Calibrate the box using the method above, and done. Way cheaper ($5 if the junkyard even charges you) and guaranteed to work correctly vs the universal Dakota Digital method for $89.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by exploderjim

Eric,

Can I ask you if its possible to make the speedo in KPH? the O would be the same and the 50 mph is the same as 80kph and 100 mph is 160 kph. Maybe you could put me in touch with your designer to get it done. Or a copy of the program to get it altered here. I bought a S-10 cluster here in Canada and its in Kilometers. I thought it would be cool to run it that way. Otherwise I'd end up with KM odometer and Miles on the speedo.
Thanks
Jim

Jim, I don't know how well it would work out. Just going from the stock 100MPH to 120MPH made the lines on the face a little crowded, since there are now 12 lines versus the original 10 (one for each 10MPH) Doing a KPH conversion would mean the speedo would need to go to 190KPH, and you would have to have 19 lines on it. It would basically be starting over at the graphics shop, and that cost me almost a hundred bucks. If you really wanted to do it, I would find a local graphic shop and ask them if they could do it for you.

Originally Posted by MalibuSSwagon

GM DRAC/VSSB Calibration

If you are carbed, this is what you need to drive an electric speedo. They are easy to find in 92-95 Chevy/GMC full size trucks, its a white box mounted under the ECM. Make sure you take the pigtail as well.

Easy to wire it too. Just de-pin wires you won't be using and braid together the VSS sensor wires to prevent interference. Connect 12V+ switched thru a 2A fuse, ground, and the C15 VSS output to the speedometer input. Calibrate the box using the method above, and done. Way cheaper ($5 if the junkyard even charges you) and guaranteed to work correctly vs the universal Dakota Digital method for $89.

This is VERY interesting! Thanks for posting the link, I may have to try this just to see how it would work out.

[67c10rustbuket]

Working on a redesigned box and have a few Questions.

1. First the box dilemma. I designed this with flanges that tuck inside to be spot welded so it would be easier than welding seams with a mig. Works okay but the jaws on our spot welder head butt the opposite edge in a couple places, arrgh. Not terrible but forming this was a bear! Might be a better idea to use small sheet metal screws? or rivets? or just remove the tucked in flanges and seam weld? Opinions?? when I have the flanges tuck in there is a small gap in the corners, do you think this needs to be water tight or just a dust cover?

2. The flippin crappin lights I angled both upper corners at 45* one side to stay inside the edge of the tin the other to clear the light (instead of rounding the corner like the template) but my box and the one I made from the paper template interfere with the odo reset (barely) so I have to make it just a bit wider. So why not enclose the inboard light under the box too? (pic 4)

3. along with Q 2, if I enclose the light will It cause interference with the Tach? I don't have a tach, and does a factory tach even work with an LS?

I keep trying to make these lightbulbs work but seriously think I will have to go with small LED lights to get something I am really happy with because they are just in the way soooo much.

My flanges are too wide and screw holes are too big so nevermind the slight overhang. Will try some more improvements tomorrow.

[MalibuSSwagon]

Factory tach will work with an LS engine, you just have to re-program the PCM output to 6 or 8 cylinder pulse; depending on what your tach is calibrated for.

[cjohnson6772]

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket

Working on a redesigned box and have a few Questions.

1. First the box dilemma. I designed this with flanges that tuck inside to be spot welded so it would be easier than welding seams with a mig. Works okay but the jaws on our spot welder head butt the opposite edge in a couple places, arrgh. Not terrible but forming this was a bear! Might be a better idea to use small sheet metal screws? or rivets? or just remove the tucked in flanges and seam weld? Opinions?? when I have the flanges tuck in there is a small gap in the corners, do you think this needs to be water tight or just a dust cover?

2. The flippin crappin lights I angled both upper corners at 45* one side to stay inside the edge of the tin the other to clear the light (instead of rounding the corner like the template) but my box and the one I made from the paper template interfere with the odo reset (barely) so I have to make it just a bit wider. So why not enclose the inboard light under the box too? (pic 4)

3. along with Q 2, if I enclose the light will It cause interference with the Tach? I don't have a tach, and does a factory tach even work with an LS?

I keep trying to make these lightbulbs work but seriously think I will have to go with small LED lights to get something I am really happy with because they are just in the way soooo much.

My flanges are too wide and screw holes are too big so nevermind the slight overhang. Will try some more improvements tomorrow.

In the interest if making this easier for anyone to do (you did volunteer didn't you? ) I would say forego the spot and seam welding and go with sheet metal screws referencing factory holes if possible. I would think it only needs to be a dust cover not water tight. I for one would prefer to not even use the trip odo so the reset interference is of no consequence to me. I would suggest covering the offending light bulb if it can be done without interfering with a factory tach.

Keep plugging away man! Many thanks!
Posted via Mobile Device

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket

Working on a redesigned box and have a few Questions.

1. First the box dilemma. I designed this with flanges that tuck inside to be spot welded so it would be easier than welding seams with a mig. Works okay but the jaws on our spot welder head butt the opposite edge in a couple places, arrgh. Not terrible but forming this was a bear! Might be a better idea to use small sheet metal screws? or rivets? or just remove the tucked in flanges and seam weld? Opinions?? when I have the flanges tuck in there is a small gap in the corners, do you think this needs to be water tight or just a dust cover?

2. The flippin crappin lights I angled both upper corners at 45* one side to stay inside the edge of the tin the other to clear the light (instead of rounding the corner like the template) but my box and the one I made from the paper template interfere with the odo reset (barely) so I have to make it just a bit wider. So why not enclose the inboard light under the box too? (pic 4)

3. along with Q 2, if I enclose the light will It cause interference with the Tach? I don't have a tach, and does a factory tach even work with an LS?

I keep trying to make these lightbulbs work but seriously think I will have to go with small LED lights to get something I am really happy with because they are just in the way soooo much.

My flanges are too wide and screw holes are too big so nevermind the slight overhang. Will try some more improvements tomorrow.

1. The box isn't water tight, it's just a dust cover, and to keep the electric parts safe. If you screw it together, you'd just have to make sure they don't interfere with anything, but I think it would work. Just be sure the circuit board fits under it, don't want to get it made to look nice then find out the speedo won't fit!

2. You could enclose the turn signal indicator light if you want to, it's no different than enclosing the two dash lights, but I think the box would have to be bigger across the top.

3. THe factory tach will work with the engine, but you need to set the tach resolution from 6 to 3 in the tune, this will double the output since LS engines use a 4 cylinder output from the factory. As for the tach actually fitting, it's close! But it will fit, although if you enclose the turnsignal light, I would get a tach and make sure it doesn't hang over where the tach needs to be. Here are the pics of my first one that I put a tach in for reference.

[exploderjim]

Eric,

I wouldn't need to have 19 different lines ordinarily in KPH they go every 20 kph intervals so I would just use 0, 20, 40, 60, 80, 100, 120, 140, 160, 180, 200 even for a total of 10 max. With the 0 the same and 80 kph at the 50mph 160 at 100mph as those are direct conversion and evenly space the rest out to match. Could let it end at 180 kph if that made it easier. Either way when you get another order going I'll get a set and if need be go and see if I can use that one as a template for a KPH one. Then go to a graphic designer from there. I guess I should just return the KPH one here and get a MPH from the states to make my life easier just thought it would be cool to have it kilometers.

[exploderjim]

Just bought a MPH one from eBay so not to worry. I'll return the KPH one and stick with the MPH. Might as well keep this as simple as possible. Let me know when the next order is coming up. Thanks Eric.