Just double checking....

[epfatboy]

So I have a intermittent problem starting my C10. The truck is ls swapped and has a 4L80E behind it.

The problem is every now and again I turn the key and I get a click, which I believe is coming from the starter solenoid. I typically get a few clicks out of it and then she turns over and starts. After that I can then stop/start the truck a few time in a row and it fires up no problem. This will happen when the engine is cold, warm, or hot.

I have also noticed that occasionally the starter drags, almost like it's a low battery charge kind of drag. This will happen either after the noid clicks a few times before starting AND when I turn the key to start it for the first time. At first I thought battery or connection but I had the battery tested and it's good and I have gone thru the connection points and cleaned/tightened all of them like twice.

I'm starting to think this is the solenoid, the starter is a new/rebuild unit. Is there a test I can run to confirm if the starter noid is the culprit here?

Could the problem be elsewhere, like the ignition switch or neutral safety? Not sure if this is really where it's at given the distinctive CLICK from the starter noid but perhaps there is a intermittent weak trigger voltage? Would that cause the noid not to engage properly? Is there another relay in here somewhere with these trucks? Oh I should mention the streeting column is out of an '86 and the shifter/neutral saftey is on the floor.

Fortunately I have yet to be stranded but the frequency appears to be on the rise so I thought I'd start the process! I guess I should mention there were 0 symptoms before the winter hit, when I pulled her out in the spring I immediately noticed the starter dragging which is why I chased the battery and connections but since they the symtoms continue to get worse.

FYI, I have dealt with starter noids getting way to hot/fired alot, this one isn't seeing alot of heat but I enclosed a pic for your assessment!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Jiqe31FpyEyESCECA
The truck has a small turbo and the exhaust is wrapped, plus I think there is a fair bit of room there! I have 0 problem running a remote noid if needed but I really don't think heat killed this noid if in fact it's the noid that is junk.

[Andler2008]

It really sounds more like a power issue IMO. Possibly a loose ground or a dirty ground connection at the frame. Possibly too small of a battery or too small of cable going to the starter, etc.

Also, I don't believe you'll even get power to the starter if the neutral safety switch is activated.

I'm leaning more towards bad battery(just because they "tested" it, doesn't necessarily mean it's good) due to the issues AFTER winter. Also, it is always good to leave your battery on some sort of battery tender, float charger, whatever you may call it to ensure that it stays in good shape as long as possible.

[Wgesnerjr]

Next time it happens, have someone turn the key to start and knock on the starter with a hammer. if it turns over, the starter has a dead spot in it and would need to be replaced.

[Dead Parrot]

My first thought on reading this was worn/bad brushes in the starter. I did read where it is a new/rebuilt starter but when I replaced the brushes in mine, it acted similar for the first several starts until the new brushes settled in.

There are a set of contacts in the solenoid that switch in battery power to the starter. If those are shot, could also cause your problems. Once the solenoid clicks, all of the other safety switches are out of the picture as they all have to work before the solenoid will click.

Also 2nd the thought to recheck the battery cables and connections. A new good quality set of cables are good insurance. If the old cables turn out good, hang them on the wall for your next project.

[epfatboy]

Thanks for all the replies.

The battery was load tested and was on a trickle charger all winter so I'll focus on a few other simple things.

It's frigging cold here today so I'll put the truck up on jackstands in the garage and start pulling the cables off and cleaning them one more time, it's 15-20 minutes so why not give it one more try. I've been bitten by a bad grounds and dirty contacts in the past so I'd like to think I put them together better than that now but a few adult beverages have a way of screwing up everything.


This is where I think I'm gonna land
"There are a set of contacts in the solenoid that switch in battery power to the starter. If those are shot, could also cause your problems."
Those contacts could cause a no and low supply to the starter, in my own little head it sort of explains why a few clicks would eventually make a solid contact.

Really wish I could get to this point, good old skool diagnosis right there!
"Next time it happens, have someone turn the key to start and knock on the starter with a hammer."

I guess I could cross up the Ign/Batt too with a screw driver, if the above noid/contact is the problem I should still get a click or drag. The problem is I might get 1 click and then it starts fine 20 times after that or I might get 5 clicks....

I'll keep you all posted, thanks again.

[epfatboy]

Well each primary contact for both pos/neg have been re-checked and cleaned.

Went to fire it and "click" but I also got another clue, if I hold the ignition on for a second after the click she starts, really feels like the starter noid is failing.

I also noticed/remembered both neg and pos are butt spliced so probably time to fix that either way, probably do a remote noid while I'm at it.