HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...

[Wingnut Way]

I made these templets to move crossmember forward one inch. This way I can use them again. Drilled 1/4 hole to use a transfer punch, works great. I still have to make some templets to move the steering box and idler arm forward one inch. I’m also gana make the same templet move the steering box and idler up for the pancake.

[crakarjax]

That's a good idea! Is the purpose just to center the wheels in the wheel well?

[Wingnut Way]

Yea just centering the front wheels in the wheel wells. Figured I’d make a few jigs where I can just put em on and drill them out without having to measure every time. Still need to make some for the steering box and idler arm. Ima cheap ass tryin to use as much of the stock stuff as possible.
If anybody wondering
Top set of side holes I got 3 7/16” center to center on the factory holes
Bottom set of holes on side of frame rail I got 5 1/2” center to center on factory holes
And the bottom lip of factory rail has 3 holes and I got 2 3/4” center to on factory holes
Just moved everything 1” forward. Fell right in place with little effort

[crakarjax]

I moved just my lower a-arm shaft forward about 3/4" iirc which helps with both caster and centering -- haven't installed them yet though, so I can't say whether it's enough to truly center the wheel.

[Wingnut Way]

Yea mine don’t have the tins back on it yet so I’m not sure if it’s center nor not yet, I asked these guys on this thread and they have done some and seems like everybody and everything is saying one inch. The aftermarket control arms they sell, pbf etc, all state that it moves everything forward one inch. So that’s what I went off

[Wingnut Way]

Ima pancake crossmember next Lol I didn’t mean to go on tangent on thread just thought might be some good info if someone is pancaking crossmember they might be intrested

[Clrussell]

Subbing for info later

[Wingnut Way]

Progress

[Wingnut Way]

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[w00dst0ck]

Originally Posted by Wingnut Way

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You should totally rent those out. I'm about to tackle this on the girl's burban. Pulled some lowers and CM off one of my donor trucks today.

[Wingnut Way]

Everything clears, stock steering gear, pancaked crossmember 1.5”, 1” forward. No rack and pinion

[WEBBY1]

hmm... I went two inches. I gotta figure out steering

[Wingnut Way]

I know I’m not laying on frame rails at 1.5” pancake. Thought i could be but ima need some small drop spindles not to exited on buying those. But at 2” pancake i think I woulda had to do a wayyy bigger notch in frame to clear the whole arm of idler and pitman. At 1.5 I get away with just clearing part of the arms at an angle.

[WEBBY1]

I'm running spindles and mmw control arms. looks like you might have to notch the control arm for steering shaft?

[Wingnut Way]

Originally Posted by WEBBY1

I'm running spindles and mmw control arms. looks like you might have to notch the control arm for steering shaft?

I’m all stock, going as cheap as possible. Yea probably I will do so after I slap cab back on and see exactly how much I need to knotch and where exactly

[WEBBY1]

I've been trying to stay cheap through the whole thing. and I have 7k into it

[jjzepplin]

One of a kind is "priceless"! In my neck of the woods it sure would be...

[crakarjax]

I went 1.5" and when I realized that I'd need to notch the control arm I ordered a no limit R&P kit. I don't like spending $1k on a single component but for the amount of work it would take to DIY a R&P I think it's worth it.

Whether the no limit kit will work with a pancaked crossmember is yet to be seen...

[Wingnut Way]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

I went 1.5" and when I realized that I'd need to notch the control arm I ordered a no limit R&P kit. I don't like spending $1k on a single component but for the amount of work it would take to DIY a R&P I think it's worth it.

Whether the no limit kit will work with a pancaked crossmember is yet to be seen...

I’ll save my $1000 and just weld some notches in

[MQUnlimited]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

Whether the no limit kit will work with a pancaked crossmember is yet to be seen...

Its been done.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

Whether the no limit kit will work with a pancaked crossmember is yet to be seen...

Originally Posted by MQUnlimited

Its been done.

Post that info up if possible?

I've seen how they did their initial set-up for their R&P kit (notching the x-member @ the rail area only). I didn't think sectioning an x-member as described within this thread would work w/the NL R&P kit.

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Post that info up if possible?

I've seen how they did their initial set-up for their R&P kit (notching the x-member @ the rail area only). I didn't think sectioning an x-member as described within this thread would work w/the NL R&P kit.

I got my no limit kit and it looks like everything will clear with some modifications to the mounting bracket and steering linkage location, and probably frame notches for the R&P links. Side note, not super happy with the quality of this kit -- sloppy grinding on the rack, hoses installed crooked, plastic crossover line instead of metal... probably more to notice upon install.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

I got my no limit kit and it looks like everything will clear with some modifications to the mounting bracket and steering linkage location, and probably frame notches for the R&P links. Side note, not super happy with the quality of this kit -- sloppy grinding on the rack, hoses installed crooked, plastic crossover line instead of metal... probably more to notice upon install.

Ahh..... It could work w/further modifications.

[crakarjax]

Yeah I think if you're fine with the stock steering there's no need to go R&P -- in my case I was going to convert in the future anyway, and just didn't want to waste the effort getting the stock steering to work now only to upgrade it later.

[tinydb84]

Nvm