TA_C10: Stage 1

[Curtb1971]

You sure are rocking and rolling on that truck Thats a ton of work there, but you'll be happy knowing what is really under it now. Looking good

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

Are you using a .030 or .023 wire? When I started using .023 wire I stopped having so many burn-thru issues.

This reminds me of my first blazer, I almost cried once I realized how bad the rust and bondo really was!

Good luck, Rg

I'm using .030 wire. I thought I was supposed to use .030. Is there a strength difference between the two size wires? I don't have anymore blowouts since I fixed the polarity and welder settings. Unless there is thin rusty metal hiding

Originally Posted by Curtb1971

You sure are rocking and rolling on that truck Thats a ton of work there, but you'll be happy knowing what is really under it now. Looking good

Yeah I'm between jobs right now so I have had extra time to work on it. It's going to be my DD so I really want this thing to handle like a modern truck but also be solid metal and sealed up tight for years of driving.

Thanks guys! And stay tuned, more pics and work coming real soon!

.

[cornerstone]

There is no difference in strength when using the smaller gauge wire. It just makes it easier to dial it down and have fewer blowouts. I suggest that if your not having blowouts then stay with the .030 gauge, you will get more metal laid down faster with the .023.

[TA_C10]

Updates.

Finished the passenger side floor and kick panel. I welded up the rest of the floor seams and got most of the kick panel piece ground down. Still have some grinding to do here and there but pretty much completed.

The outside lip where the kick panel butts to the floor I just welded up solid. I also took some pics of the bottom of the floor where I patched in the floor to show the seam is gone now. Not sure how I am going to finish where the old seam meets the new floor pieces but I'm happy with how it turned out. Good enough

Enjoy the pics.








Floor seam that meets the trans tunnel completed.






Kick panel meets the floor seam all welded up.






Outside kick panel seam and plug welds.











Here is the outside of cab, kick panel, back side under cab. I beat this piece pretty thin to make it stretch and shape to fit correctly so I didn't want it rusting or being weak so I welded 2 beads down the weak spot to re-strengthen the piece hopefully. It will not get grinded down. Just cleaned up and painted. (gold colored welds here)






Here are a couple shots of the bottom of floor where I cut out and replaced the floor with replacement floor panel. No more seam. And I will be removing the floor supports and replacing them soon. So I will be welding more on those seams from the bottom and grinding them down.






The old piece I cut out and replaced.







Almost finished




At this point I am ready to roll over the cab, finish the floor supports, roll it back upright again and put jack stands under the cab mounts like its sitting on the cab. Then I will mount the doors and finish the outer rockers. I will then roll it back over on its nose again, prep and spray the bottom of floor pan.

I will prep it, spray epoxy primer first, then I have a bucket of lizard skin ceramic coating that goes last. I am trying to decide what to put between the epoxy primer and lizard skin however. I can either do 2k urethane primer as a sealer, or I have eastwood rust converter I could use, or maybe something else I dunno yet.... I thought about rubber undercoating and then the ceramic lizard skin but im not sure I need all that....


.