Anyone running an AAW Classic Update Harness and late model GM alternator?

[roger55]

If so, I suggest you read this:

http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158043

[Mattyparty]

What does it do if the resisitor isn't installed?

[roger55]

Originally Posted by Mattyparty

What does it do if the resisitor isn't installed?

It could damage the internal regulator.

[mr48chev]

I'll have to put that in the info file. I picked up one of those alternators at a yard sale a while back because it was too cheap to turn down. Guy pulled it and the bracket off an engine he stuck in an older rig.

I did find this page that gives some explanation https://alternatorparts.com/gm-delco...g-diagram.html

[Coupeguy2001]

The alternator fail light bulb has about 40-60 ohms of resistance depending on the bulb you use. If you use the bulb instead of the resistor, it will work also.
The alternator/bracketry I'm using came out of a 91 firebird. It has a 105 amp alternator. I wired it up using a Gm alternator wiring diagram that I found on the net. I have no place for the alternator bulb in my 57, so I just zip tied the bulb and socket to the wiring harness under the dash.
The bulb is only on with the ignition on and the engine not running.
It doesn't get hot enough when it's lit to damage anything, and in addition, from the time you put the key in the ignition to starting is just a second or two anyway.
If you wire in an alternator, and can't find wire large enough, you can use two 10 gage wires off the alternator to the battery terminal on the starter, or the fuse box large battery lug.
You do not want to fuse this wire.

[roger55]

Originally Posted by Coupeguy2001

The alternator fail light bulb has about 40-60 ohms of resistance depending on the bulb you use. If you use the bulb instead of the resistor, it will work also.
The alternator/bracketry I'm using came out of a 91 firebird. It has a 105 amp alternator. I wired it up using a Gm alternator wiring diagram that I found on the net. I have no place for the alternator bulb in my 57, so I just zip tied the bulb and socket to the wiring harness under the dash.
The bulb is only on with the ignition on and the engine not running.
It doesn't get hot enough when it's lit to damage anything, and in addition, from the time you put the key in the ignition to starting is just a second or two anyway.
If you wire in an alternator, and can't find wire large enough, you can use two 10 gage wires off the alternator to the battery terminal on the starter, or the fuse box large battery lug.
You do not want to fuse this wire.

Good advice here.
However, I want to discuss your last item. This wire should be protected either with a fuse or fusible link. The factory and replacement harnesses from AAW use a fusible link.
If using a fuse, a proper type must be used. I would recommend either MIDI/AMI or ANL type fuse holders and time-delay fuses. MAXI fuse holders are mostly of questionable quality and I do not recommend using those even though you can get high amperage fuses in that type.

[Coupeguy2001]

The lead goes from the alternator to the starter battery terminal. I can see your point, There always is a possibility for a short or open circuit. (after all, it's electricity)
I can see your thinking, since all new car alternators are hooked up both to the load, and the battery. Mine is connected to the battery directly, and indirectly, from the battery to the load. I have a battery cable from an 87 corvette, and it has the extra lead coming out of the battery cable terminal, and I routed it to a terminal board.

I know, The positive is still the positive.

This was my reasoning if something were to short out:
if the alternator goes bad, it just stops producing.
If there is a short in the alternator, There is a diode bridge in the alternator that would fry,
and the internal regulator uses 20 gage wire, so that isn't a problem.
If the alternator suddenly starts producing 20 volts, I have a volt meter on the dash that would indicate a problem.

On mine,

The Original amp meter is connected to partial load so it reads like the original generator load would have indicated, ignition, lights, stop lights, wipers and turn signals.

The wires going to the starter from the alternator are in a plastic conduit so they are insulated from everything.

The battery charge is indicated on the volt meter, so it is not tied to the amp meter (like new cars) and is 20 gauge wire, so it would just fry.

My amp meter only reads the load, not the charge current, so I reversed the leads on the ammeter, and it reads positive side of the ammeter indicating how many amps are being sucked from the alternator, minus the battery load (since the original ammeter is rated at 30 amps, it would be pegged at start-up due to the fact that I have a 105 amp alternator, and would fry the ammeter and wires).

I rely on the volt meter to assist in determining the condition of the battery (when I turn on the key), and that the alternator is producing, since the volts never drop below 13.5 when the engine is running.
Since my load on the ammeter is the original load, the ammeter and associated wiring isn't overloaded on the new truck harness.
I have a secondary buss that is fused, and each individual accessory is fused as well.
1. electric overdrive and relay, and arm relay
2. electric fuel pump and relay
3. electric fan and relay
4. heater blower
5. air conditioner clutch and relay
6. air conditioner blower
7. 100 watt stereo amp
8. Sony radio
9. Sony equalizer
10 electronic ignition
11 cab and glove box light
12 4 way flashers