In-Cab Gas Tank ARRRGH!

[cericd]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

When I wrecked my '72 C1500 7 years ago and then rebuilt it afterwards I pondered an aftermarket in cab tank. I even pondered an under bed tank. When I removed the original tank out of the cab so I could do rust repair, I stuck it in a shed on the outskirts of our property. Heck I even left a half tank of fuel in it for some odd reason.

Fast forward to 4 years later it was time to reinstall, buy new, or stick a tank under the bed. I chose to reuse. Mainly because of the horror stories i had heard about aftermarket in cab tanks. I also didn't feel like the extra work of sticking it under the bed and figuring out where the filler neck was going to be.

My original was in good shape with no rust in it. Even after sitting in a shed with fuel in it for 4 years it had no rust in it. So I flushed it the best i could, and added a new "filter sock" on the end of the pickup tube, and reintsalled it in the cab. Even resealed nicely in the old original filler neck grommet. Working flawlessly to this day.

So unless you visually inspected the tank and it has either rusted or it has some sort of weird leaking issue. I'd simply reuse the original.

Gary

Hey Gary,

what did you use to flush the tank out? I'd prefer to use the original. The was never a fuel smell in the truck before so I figure the tank doesn't have any holes.

[cericd]

Originally Posted by jimijam00

For someone that can weld, it's not hard to fix the problem with one of these aftermarket tanks. For $50, I bet a guy could have someone do it for them.

I got a new tank last year from my local O'Reillys. It was close, and went in. It was as heavy as the old one I took out, though it probably was not the original. Not perfect neck angle, but not worth effing with. Precision Fuel Tank FT5197.

The Precision tanks must be made by Spectra too. They are made in Canada, cost exactly the same amount, are made of Ni-Tern steel (same as Spectra) and they have the same model number GM49A. Must be rebranded for O'reilly.

[jimijam00]

You very well could be right on that. They also could be rebranding from more than one manufacturer. I just hit up O'Reilly's site and found a ton of parts with the Precision name on them.

Does it fit?

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by cericd

Hey Gary,

what did you use to flush the tank out? I'd prefer to use the original. The was never a fuel smell in the truck before so I figure the tank doesn't have any holes.

I drained all the old crap gas out and then took the fuel sender/pickup out. The filter sock was gone off the end of the pickup tube. I then dumped in about a gallon of diesel and 12 fairly large (1/2" or so) nuts. I let it sit for about an hour, and then my stepson and I grabbed each end of the tank and tipped it back and for over and over. Also swished it back and forth. Dumped out the diesel, and then dumped in a gallon of gasoline to wash out the diesel and then did the same dance moves as before. :

Did that 2 more times, with fresh gasoline each time. The big nuts I hoped loosened any junk in the bottom, and I was able to fish them out with a magnet, if they didn't come out the filler neck when we dumped the fuel out. The original metal gromet that the original fuel pickup sock was on came out of the tank as well.

I haven't had a lick of trouble with this tank.

Gary

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by cericd

Hey Gary,

what did you use to flush the tank out? I'd prefer to use the original. The was never a fuel smell in the truck before so I figure the tank doesn't have any holes.

Concrete etch its phosphoric acid. Couple dozen nuts and agitate. I had no leaks so I didnt seal it as the acid leaves a phosphate coating . Been two years and it's still nice and clean . My lizard cam has a blueish tinted but for 19 bucks it works

[cericd]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Concrete etch its phosphoric acid. Couple dozen nuts and agitate. I had no leaks so I didnt seal it as the acid leaves a phosphate coating . Been two years and it's still nice and clean . My lizard cam has a blueish tinted but for 19 bucks it works

Thanks for the pics. The tank looks great. Do you remember what brand of concrete etch you used? How did you seal the neck and sending unit holes? Also, how and for how long did you agitate the tank? I’d like to replicate your results.

[72c20customcamper]

Made by Klean Srip bought it at home depot. Called Concrete and Metal prep make sure you use the phosphoric acid type not muriatic. Muriatic cleans faster but can make the metal brittle if it's in
contact to long . I just left the sender in it cause I was replacing it anyway and put a vacuum cap on the outlet . The neck I left the cap on too. I did an overnight soak then agitated it during every so often the next day. Drained it and rinse it with water then a cup of baking soda in a gallon of warm water sloshed it around to neutralize the acid . Left it at that

[cericd]

Thanks! Is that some of the junk that came out with the nuts?

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by cericd

Thanks! Is that some of the junk that came out with the nuts?

Yup I assume the rust clumped together . It was hard but broke apart easily and was rust colored throughout