Cutting Long Bed to Short Bed

[MDFarms]

Anyone know of a shop or individual that knows how.pr.wpuld want to be hired to cut down a 8ft bed properly preferably in Michigan or If not Indiana/Ohio? Or have the templates that show.the cut lines around the rear marker lights?

[HotWheelsFan]

Wow, wish the best for you.

Tried to put a section of roof onto a vehicle to cover up a sun-roof. Way to hard for me to do properly. Learned a lot though.


Bob

[AussieinNC]

Just a suggestion...have you priced new sheetmetal bedsides...

They are usually around $500 a side.......LMC has them on backorder right now but other suppliers may have stock....

I have done a few sets for myself...but it is a big job...I buy new now if the originals need more than a few days work...

[MDFarms]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

Just a suggestion...have you priced new sheetmetal bedsides...

They are usually around $500 a side.......LMC has them on backorder right now but other suppliers may have stock....

I have done a few sets for myself...but it is a big job...I buy new now if the originals need more than a few days work...

Looked into them? How is quality? thickness of metal the same?

[jocko]

Also keep in mind that longbed wheelwell openings are slightly different, pretty easy to spot visually, if that matters to you. That's one of the main reasons (along with simplicity) aftermarket shortbed sides are popular and sometimes a good choice. Not to mention stake pockets...

[MDFarms]

Originally Posted by jocko

Also keep in mind that longbed wheelwell openings are slightly different, pretty easy to spot visually, if that matters to you. That's one of the main reasons (along with simplicity) aftermarket shortbed sides are popular and sometimes a good choice. Not to mention stake pockets...

What do you mean we wel openings are different? The guys that do it correctly save stake pockets front and rear along with marker light. Seen some amazing jobs but never noticed wheel well openings?

[Myself]

Very good shortening info and method in this thread.....http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=667694

[jocko]

Originally Posted by MDFarms

What do you mean we wel openings are different? The guys that do it correctly save stake pockets front and rear along with marker light. Seen some amazing jobs but never noticed wheel well openings?

It's not a matter of saving stake pockets, it's a matter or remembering to eliminate the middle ones from a long bed. I agree most do the stake pockets correctly by eliminating the middle ones, but the point is that it's additional work that folks don't always consider. Not much, but adds up. As for the wheel openings, the difference is in the forward lower edge of the opening. It's not "that" noticeable, but now that you've seen it, you won't be able to keep yourself from looking at it swb is a sharp point, lwb is curved.

[MDFarms]

Originally Posted by jocko

It's not a matter of saving stake pockets, it's a matter or remembering to eliminate the middle ones from a long bed. I agree most do the stake pockets correctly by eliminating the middle ones, but the point is that it's additional work that folks don't always consider. Not much, but adds up. As for the wheel openings, the difference is in the forward lower edge of the opening. It's not "that" noticeable, but now that you've seen it, you won't be able to keep yourself from looking at it swb is a sharp point, lwb is curved.

I like to be oem correct on everything but will say in this case 99.9% would never catch this BUT never the less a good point.

My concern is GM metal is always better than "AFTERMARKET" metal. Now I have never seen the new SB sides offered so any input would be greatly appreciated. Whats the quality of metal and if anyone knows if there is a difference in thickness? Do the body lines line up correctly and look good once installed?

Thanks for advice

[Snake72]

I bought new bedsides for my LWB, 100% the right decision for me. Haven't gauged the thickness but they are heavy and well built. I think they were goodmark brand. Body lines were great, overall fit was great with minor massaging, had to enlarge a few holes and grind down some sharp creased edges.

[Snake72]

here is a bad pic of mine...the SWB bedsides are cheaper than the LWB as well

[Big Kev-O]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDVikDbvDfQ

The guy in this video uses a method similar to the one mentioned above but he angles the rear cut which is supposed to make the body line easier to match up. The video shows how to layout the cut template with masking tape on the rear section. After reading the treads and watching several videos I purchased bedsides from form LMC because they offered free shipping with any purchase over $1000. The two bedsides were $998 so i added a cheap part to get the free shipping. I was impressed with the bedsides but unfortunately UPS damaged them. LMC is shipping out another set but now they are back ordered. To me time is money and if I spent 20 + hours cutting , welding and body working bedsides I may as well buy a pair that are guaranteed to look good.

[Peanut74]

MDFarms, I started down the same path as you. In the end I decided to just buy a new short Fleetwood bed kit from SOKY. I wanted a metal bed and the was a grand and my tailgate was rusted out so another 400 which got me to 1400. Add to that the cost of get the soda blasted I determined it wasn't worth it going that route.

If you check out my thread: "Got a bed kit today and looking for some assembly tips"
In the thread I documented the metal gauges of the various parts. I also noted how the parts fit together and their quality. Sorry, don't know how to copy the link to paste it here.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I found a near perfect original paint longbed from out west and cut it down. Don't be upset long bed guys, I paid a lot of $ for it

The cutting and putting it back together part are easy... fully welding it and having the bedside look like this when you're done is no easy task.

The last pic is the Z cut template. When you put a straight edge on the back of the bed, you'll clearly see where the bed "falls off and curves" to the taillights. That's your first line, basically the back edge of the turn signal, 8" over is your 2nd line. My truck is a 67 so I just cut out the turn signal.

I did have an original short bed I kept taking measurements from too.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by Peanut74

MDFarms, I started down the same path as you. In the end I decided to just buy a new short Fleetwood bed kit from SOKY. I wanted a metal bed and the was a grand and my tailgate was rusted out so another 400 which got me to 1400. Add to that the cost of get the soda blasted I determined it wasn't worth it going that route.

If you check out my thread: "Got a bed kit today and looking for some assembly tips"
In the thread I documented the metal gauges of the various parts. I also noted how the parts fit together and their quality. Sorry, don't know how to copy the link to paste it here.

Here is your link:https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...+assembly+tips











.

[rockyrivermark]

I purchased new bedsides when I did my short bed conversion. Fit and metal thickness were just like oem from what I could tell. I would say they were the same gauge as originals.
certainly a cheaper option and less work I would think.
Mark

[MDFarms]

Originally Posted by rockyrivermark

I purchased new bedsides when I did my short bed conversion. Fit and metal thickness were just like oem from what I could tell. I would say they were the same gauge as originals.
certainly a cheaper option and less work I would think.
Mark

Thanks for input, this long box is in amazing condition. I would have to purchase the whole kit minus gate. Wood or steel? Wood is way cooler.but steel would be correct for a 1972

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by MDFarms

Thanks for input, this long box is in amazing condition. I would have to purchase the whole kit minus gate. Wood or steel? Wood is way cooler.but steel would be correct for a 1972

Wood was offered in 72 short wide beds also. Wood was painted body color

[tutone]

It is a pretty big job, but there are a lot of little tricks to keep it all gapped properly. A'67 long bed and short bed did not have curved wheel wells. I do not know if that was an add-on in design when they added marker lights in 68 or not. I've lucked up on a factory short bed for my current project, so It won't be an issue. Good luck on whatever you decide.

[Ben IV]

The trucks I've seen with aftermarket bedsides have a mismatch in the body line above the taillight where it meets the tailgate.

I cut my bedsides down. Pictures in my build thread.

[rockyrivermark]

My bedsides for real nice and body lines were spot on.
There are several venders out there but I’m not sure how many different manufactures.
Mine where “red dot”. At least that’s what was on the box.
Mark

[xs-cash]

Originally Posted by jocko

It's not a matter of saving stake pockets, it's a matter or remembering to eliminate the middle ones from a long bed. I agree most do the stake pockets correctly by eliminating the middle ones, but the point is that it's additional work that folks don't always consider. Not much, but adds up. As for the wheel openings, the difference is in the forward lower edge of the opening. It's not "that" noticeable, but now that you've seen it, you won't be able to keep yourself from looking at it swb is a sharp point, lwb is curved.

Wow ! I didn’t know that !