Driveshafts

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Last night at about midnight my driveshaft let loose. At this point I am not sure all of what happened, and I am working on that now. Non the less one of the axle caps was ripped off. I didn't get to bed till almost 3am, and I can hardly sleep past sun up.

But what is the recommend driveshaft style or upgrades I can do to a 83 C10 rcsb with a 450-475 hp 383 engine. The truck has what appears to be a truck 12 bolt axle.

Should I go for chromoly since steel is stronger, or aluminum since alot of performance versions are made of it? I am not opposed to carbon fiber, but I am not sure if my proposed axle swap will work with it. As with steel or aluminum they can reshortened if needed.

Since I am sure I am going to lower the truck. What is the recommendation on shorter driveshafts for a 4/6 drop?

[mongocanfly]

dennys driveshafts

[crossfire84]

^^^^

[LS short box]

On all my hot rod builds if possible I always upgrade to 1350 u-joints. That means a new trans yoke and rear end yoke. A good drive shaft shop will want to know drive shaft length and max rpm you will see. Then they will calculate the diameter needed for your application.
On my projects I've only used steel so I can't speak to other materials. Steel is going to be the lowest cost.

[joedoh]

sounds like you had a u joint failure, unless the driveshaft twisted you are going to spend 10x on a new driveshaft when you can just have good new joints installed and the shaft balanced. should be a local driveshaft place close to you, and everyone I tell that to says "no there isnt" but they forget about semi truck service centers. the one I use (ITP, national chain) calls my driveshafts "toothpicks" but they know an awful lot about driveshafts and angles and u joints of any type.

Originally Posted by LS short box

On all my hot rod builds if possible I always upgrade to 1350 u-joints.

good advice!

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by joedoh

sounds like you had a u joint failure, unless the driveshaft twisted you are going to spend 10x on a new driveshaft when you can just have good new joints installed and the shaft balanced. should be a local driveshaft place close to you, and everyone I tell that to says "no there isnt" but they forget about semi truck service centers. the one I use (ITP, national chain) calls my driveshafts "toothpicks" but they know an awful lot about driveshafts and angles and u joints of any type.




good advice!

I lost the driveshaft as I was doing 80 when it let loose, and it flew off the freeway. My current guess is my U joint failed, but my pinion on my 12 bolt was also bad. Luckily my trans survived the problem. I tried tightening the pinion crush sleave, but no dice. I must have a crushed bearing or something else bad.

The only way to of saved the drove shaft is if I came to a dead stop because it popped, and ran away in 5 seconds or so.

I have a few places close to me who have good reviews from people I trust. It is just about which way I angle on the options. Do I build my 12 bolt or do I do a 14sf swap. Both are what I want.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by LS short box

On all my hot rod builds if possible I always upgrade to 1350 u-joints. That means a new trans yoke and rear end yoke. A good drive shaft shop will want to know drive shaft length and max rpm you will see. Then they will calculate the diameter needed for your application.
On my projects I've only used steel so I can't speak to other materials. Steel is going to be the lowest cost.

I was thinking I might as well do 1350's as I lost the whole driveshaft, and why not upgrade.

My concern is going for something cool carbon fiber. It adds free hp by reducing mass, but is it durable enough for a hotter street truck. In terms of towing, and bombing around off road.

Either way I have been trending steel for cost.

[special-K]

I've always used steel driveshafts with no issue no matter what the vehicle's needs were.

[burnin oil]

I think the main advantage to aluminum is the diameter of the tubing. This really comes into play with big driveline angles as it allows the designers to have a higher critical speed. I always use steel shafts and have had very few issues. I wore out a slip yoke on a diesel truck putting down over 1000 ftlbs through 4.44 gears. The other failure on that truck was snapping the drive flange which caused the drive shaft to hit the pavement.

Search the internet for the Spicer driveline setup guide. It is for bigger trucks but talks all about shaft selection, critical speeds and angles on steel shafts. Some.e really good reading.

[LS short box]

I think QA1 offers carbon fiber drive shafts.

[cwcarpenter98]

I believe the carbon fiber driveshafts were developed for the stupid high horsepower guys (1,000+) that couldn't keep a traditional driveshaft in their vehicle

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by LS short box

I think QA1 offers carbon fiber drive shafts.

I was looking at one of those, the lower end model is enough for my truck. Especially if I use solid 1310 joints. Also it is in my price range, but the better model is a bit rich for my blood. As it is a bit over triple the price of a steel one. Not just a couple hundred more.

Last night I got my pinion tightened up, but my 12 bolt is still in need of repair. It will still need to be rebuilt. So I am deciding on what to do. Although it may last a couple of months.

Do I rebuild my rear end, go for a 14 bolt sf 8 lug, or custom build a spare brand F 8.8 I have. Which I could narrow, and run the 15x10 slot mags I have.

[DocZz]

Originally Posted by Ziegelsteinfaust

I was thinking I might as well do 1350's as I lost the whole driveshaft, and why not upgrade.

My concern is going for something cool carbon fiber. It adds free hp by reducing mass, but is it durable enough for a hotter street truck. In terms of towing, and bombing around off road.

Either way I have been trending steel for cost.

No need to go carbon fibre unless critical driveshaft speed dictates so. Our trucks are heavy and weight savings really not worth it and they are not up to offroad abuse. CM shaft with 1350 u-joints probably best choice.
I went with one in anticipation of 6000 rpm shaft speed at 60" long.
(Sure looks cool tho eh?)

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by DocZz

No need to go carbon fibre unless critical driveshaft speed dictates so. Our trucks are heavy and weight savings really not worth it and they are not up to offroad abuse. CM shaft with 1350 u-joints probably best choice.
I went with one in anticipation of 6000 rpm shaft speed at 60" long.
(Sure looks cool tho eh?)

I wanted to go CF for weight savings in rotational mass which if your so inclined is pretty much free hp, or 2 tenths in the quarter depending on set up. 20 pounds savings on a 4000 pound truck or 20 pounds saved on a 40 pound driveshaft.

I went steel in the end because the 1350 driveshaft is 6-8 weeks out, and $1300 more money. So I will upgrade next time I break something.

Also while I was sobbing on the phone to Summit. I ordered a Detroit Locker, 4.88 gears, and a rebuild kit for my 12 bolt. Plus upgrading it to 1350 too.

Soon I will be onto the next self induced personal disaster.

[Tom]

Originally Posted by Ziegelsteinfaust

Soon I will be onto the next self induced personal disaster.

That's the spirit!

[LS short box]

Don't forget about upgraded axles. Weld the axle tubes to the center section.
Man I like spending other peoples money!

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by LS short box

Don't forget about upgraded axles. Weld the axle tubes to the center section.
Man I like spending other peoples money!

I will do upgrades axles in a year or so as I have plans that go around them.

When new axles come I will be swapping to 6 lugs. So at that point I will also swap breaks, rims/tires, and lower the rear end.

I will get my welder back in a day or two, and weld the axle tubes up. Along with cleaning the axle so the rebuilder has less to deal with.

It will be fun again as soon as the hit of the repairs are gone