Brake boosters

[64shortbed]

Let see some pics of your power brake booster setups. Let us,know what they came off of and how you had to mount them. Year, make, and model would be great. So others can know were to find and what works.
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[64shortbox]

I used the Power Brake Booster Bracket from captianfab, the Booster came off a mid 80's full size Chevy truck BUT it has metric studs - I should have grabbed one off a 73 or earlier GM product. The Master Cylinder is for a 67 Cadillac (I'm currently running all drum brakes but disc brakes are in my future) The Booster Check Valve and Molded Vacuum Hose is from a late 70's Dodge truck. The Chevy truck Booster had a long rod with an eye on the end of it. I cut off the eye and ran a 3/8-24 tap down the rod on the Booster. I then made an extension using a 3/8-24 Coupling Nut and a heim end. Speedway has a kit for about the same price I paid to piece mine together - about $10.00 including the heim end.

[64shortbed]

Wow thanks for the great pics and the reply i guess i didnt see any one replyed to this tread. looks good!

[64shortbox]

Hope the pics & info helped some. Oh, I like your screen name too!

[Captainfab]

A bump for member Bigru.........

[Bigru]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

A bump for member Bigru.........

Thanks Captainfab!
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[russellrox]

I’m having the same issue right now, never thought of theading it, do you have any more pictures of how you coupled to the factory push rod?

[Captainfab]

I do not know who that question is directed to but I answered your PM and here is the link to a thread showing another members method of the booster pushrod lengthening.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=564518

Originally Posted by russellrox

I’m having the same issue right now, never thought of theading it, do you have any more pictures of how you coupled to the factory push rod?

[The Rocknrod]

DMO - Take a look at this and think about it.
http://www.mpbrakes.com/techtalk/how...r-cylinder-gap

[64shortbox]

DMO,
When I first did my power brake conversion I still had drum brakes on all for corners. I later swapped in a 73 Disc brake front suspension. I used ALL the original brake lines & proportioning valve (Combination Valve) from the 73 C-10. I did however have to make a bracket to mount the proportioning valve in the 73 location. This was easy for me since at my work I have access to lots of scrap metal (stainless steel) and a welders.

Here's a link that gets into more detail as to what I did if that helps any at all. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=703755

[MASTERBrian]

I've had my bracket mounted, but I've yet settled on a booster/master/valve combo.

Has anyone used CPPs booster kit with this bracket? Is it just a direct hookup to the brake pedal or NOT?

If not I'll just buy something off the list. I'm also open to suggestions on where to get valve.

[siggyfreud]

I went with a summit 8" dual diaphram, and a wilwood master cylidner/prop valve combo. Just started running the lines, so haven't driven with it yet. This is for a disc/disc setup.

[Northwest Outlaw]

Booster and MC from a '76 c10, front disc rear drum brakes setup. i trimmed down the mounting bracket and then drilled hole in the firewall for the bolts. I had to add an extension in the brake pedal pushrod but everything was able to bolt in

[racecougar]

We went with a rebuilt hydroboost unit spec'd for a '82 K20, a new AC Delco master cylinder for the same, and a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. The rest of the system is copper-nickel lines, SS hoses, Wilwood D52 dual-piston front calipers, and JB5 rear drums.

We whipped up our own mounting bracket to utilize the stock bolt pattern in the '65 C10 firewall. The pedal was modded slightly to place the hole in the correct location for the hydroboost pushrod. A little tab was added to actuate the stock '65 brake pedal switch.

[MASTERBrian]

I visited my welder and a surplus hardware store and think I've figured out my connection. If all goes well, I'll have it together tonight. Out of probably 100 drill bits, I for some reason am missing the one size I need...off to the hardware store again before this evenings fun...

[MASTERBrian]

The booster is in, except for the lower two bolts. Apparently I'll have to stand on my head to get them tightened.

As for the pushrod, I cut the end off the booster pushrod, then threaded it with 3/8 16. I then opted for the clevis end vs the factory Heim style connection. My main reason for this was what I had and I didn't have a long enough, threaded, 7/16 20 bolt nor could I find a die to make my own. The clevis I found had a 3/8" rod, so even though the clevis end was 20 or 24 pitched threads, I threaded the other end to the 3/8 16, which now matches the pushrod going into the booster. I joined those two rods with a coupling nut threaded to match and locked it in place with a nut on either end. If I loosen the nut near the clevis, I can easily adjust the pedal freeplay then lock it back in place.

Obviously it needs some paint, imo at least, but so does the rest of the under dash. Just nice to finally have this step behind me.

I am somewhat considering looking for a longer 7/16 20 bolt or die and eventually creating an end using the factory bracket to pedal. If I do this, I'll drill out half of the coupling nut and run a tap into it to create the 7/16 20 thread to match the factory end. But that's just me being a bit anal and wanting to keep as much original as I can for ease later down the road.

Now if I can just get the rest of the lines finished, I'll have brakes. Next fuel lines and tank, figuring out why parking lights don't work and getting her registered and onto the road!

[joesscamaro]

Here's my attempt at an under the cab brake set-up. Bought the pedal online, master is a spare I had laying around and had a 7" booster that I began to modify/mock-up. Still in need of the proportioning valve and master for disc/disc and to run my lines...but it's getting there.