ID '63-'66 Power Brake Booster Bracket With Hydraulic Clutch Conversion

[Captainfab]

This kit converts your ’63-’66 Chevy or ’64-’66 GMC truck to power brakes and also a hydraulic clutch. The brake booster part is identical to the standard booster brackets that I make and bolts to the firewall using factory threaded holes. Consequently the same compatible boosters will fit as well as the hydroboost mounting plate that I also make. The booster bracket is fabricated from laser cut 10 ga mild steel, Then formed and TIG welded on the outside and MIG welded on the inside. The clutch master cylinder will be a Wilwood master cylinder sized to work with the particular clutch slave cylinder or hydraulic throw out bearing that you will be using. The linkage assembly parts are all zinc plated to resist rust. Included in the kit is everything shown in the picture below.

To install the master cylinder you will have to drill (2) 11/32" holes for the mounting bolts, and a 1 1/2" hole (with a hole saw) to accomodate the center of the master cylinder. The supplied standoff simply bolts to your brake pedal using an existing hole. Then the clutch master pushrod with a clevis connects to the lever arm and another clevis with the threaded rod and heim joint bolts to the standoff on the other end.

The cost of this kit will be $260.00 plus a flat rate shipping cost of $22.65. Satin black powder coating is available for an additional $10.50. This pricing is always current and up to date.

To purchase yours either post in this thread, send me a PM or send an email to captainfab454@hotmail.com, and I will give you the ordering and payment instructions and current lead time.

[chevy49]

will this work with the stock type s-10 clutch parts?

[Captainfab]

When you say 'stock type s-10 clutch parts' do you mean the clutch slave cylinder? If so, I don't see that being a problem. I would just need some more detailed info so that I supply you with the correct clutch slave cylinder.

Originally Posted by chevy49

will this work with the stock type s-10 clutch parts?

[Captainfab]

Bump

[Captainfab]

Here are a few pics of the linkage between the clutch pedal and clutch master. This linkage assemble allows you to have full travel of the clutch pedal and limits the stroke of the clutch master so as to not bottom out the piston.

[Captainfab]

Ttt

[RANDY COX]

Hey Captainfab do you sale just the clutch kit without the mounting bracket for power brake booster...if so how much...

[Captainfab]

If you are talking about the linkage assembly, yes I do sell that separately. It is $100 plus shipping of $6.30.

Originally Posted by RANDY COX

Hey Captainfab do you sale just the clutch kit without the mounting bracket for power brake booster...if so how much...

[J1MMY]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1310359367

I thought I'd feed this back publicly, not to find fault with the product but in case anyone else has found a similar issue.

On the kit you sent out to me the block that is fixed through the lower clutch cylinder bolt is different - see pic below. I'm guessing that this is simply product refinement



The issue that I have is that using the format as set out in your guidance pics the plunger rod for the clutch is pulled downwards instead of straight outwards.

If I alter the format as shown in the pic below then the plunger rod sits straight and the rod from the clutch pedal pivots on the middle hole of the plate that unifies all three rods. To make that work, the plate has to be filed.

Also, the extra cut plate that sandwiches between the clutch cylinder and the firewall renders the bolts too short. Is this plate simply for reinforcement or to help with pedal travel? See pic below:

[Heater63]

Capt will answer for himself, but if this helps speed you along...run with it....on the pushrod, it is not how level it starts, its that it needs to be level at full insertion.
On the top bolt, yes, same thing here, I just used and turned around a slightly longer bolt, inserted it from inside the cab, and put the nut on the outside as it was too long to insert from the master side and clear the pressure line fitting.

[Captainfab]

The different pivot block than what is shown in the pictures was done from a manufacturing perspective to keep costs under control. I simply do not have time to mock up another assemble just for pictures.

The spacer between the master and the booster bracket serves as 2 purposes. 1) It increases the clearance for the wire harness that is beside the clutch master. 2) It eliminates the need to shorten the clutch master pushrod.

The configuration of the clutch linkage assembly is designed to work as it is in the pictures. This allows full clutch pedal stroke without bottoming out the clutch master. What you have done just reversed that feature. The clutch master will bottom out before the clutch pedal. This could very likely damage the clutch master.

As for the bolt length. You are using the wrong bolt. As Heater63 stated, the top bolt must be installed from inside the cab, with the nut on the engine side of the firewall.

Originally Posted by J1MMY

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1310359367

I thought I'd feed this back publicly, not to find fault with the product but in case anyone else has found a similar issue.

On the kit you sent out to me the block that is fixed through the lower clutch cylinder bolt is different - see pic below. I'm guessing that this is simply product refinement



The issue that I have is that using the format as set out in your guidance pics the plunger rod for the clutch is pulled downwards instead of straight outwards.

If I alter the format as shown in the pic below then the plunger rod sits straight and the rod from the clutch pedal pivots on the middle hole of the plate that unifies all three rods. To make that work, the plate has to be filed.

Also, the extra cut plate that sandwiches between the clutch cylinder and the firewall renders the bolts too short. Is this plate simply for reinforcement or to help with pedal travel? See pic below:

Originally Posted by Heater63

Capt will answer for himself, but if this helps speed you along...run with it....on the pushrod, it is not how level it starts, its that it needs to be level at full insertion.
On the top bolt, yes, same thing here, I just used and turned around a slightly longer bolt, inserted it from inside the cab, and put the nut on the outside as it was too long to insert from the master side and clear the pressure line fitting.

[RANDY COX]

So does the wildwood master cylinder come in the kit from capt.Fab..or is this ordered separately..

[Captainfab]

This conversion kit comes with everything shown and stated in post #1 of this for sale thread. That is unless the customer requests otherwise.

Originally Posted by RANDY COX

So does the wildwood master cylinder come in the kit from capt.Fab..or is this ordered separately..

[J1MMY]

Thanks for the response to my queries, i have redone it and it all look pretty damned good now.

[Captainfab]

I will be on vacation from 08-08-16 thru 08-25-16. If you wish to make a purchase you can post here in this for sale thread, send me a PM or an email to captainfab454@hotmail.com. I will reply to your inquiry when I return on the 25th. I do currently have a list of orders to build and ship when I return but I will add your name to the list in order of when received. Thanks for your understanding.

[KenAdams]

Got mine today. You have far exceded my expectations. It looks great. I wish I could weld half as good as you!

[jocko]

Captain, I've been absent from the 60-66 world a bit, missed your production of this kit. Beautiful work as always.

[Captainfab]

Thanks for the compliments

Originally Posted by KenAdams

Got mine today. You have far exceded my expectations. It looks great. I wish I could weld half as good as you!

Originally Posted by jocko

Captain, I've been absent from the 60-66 world a bit, missed your production of this kit. Beautiful work as always.

[KenAdams]

I think I voided the warranty on my bracket. It's too cold to work outside so I spent an hour on the kitchen island with sandpaper smoothing the driver's side interior corner and passenger side exterior corner welds to get it ready for powder coat. Looks real good. I love sexy tig welds, but now it looks like it was carved by the gods. Said it before, but kudos to your welding ability, no undercut and good penetration.

[Captainfab]

Yes that does look good. Post another pic after you get it powder coated.

[KenAdams]

Back from the powdercoater. Looks good, real good.

[Bison]

Hi all,

In my search for a brake booster to use with this kit, I stumbled across Tuff Stuff, who make a variety of boosters in different diameters (single and dual), plus they come in a bunch of different colours.

I emailed them to ask what the bolt pattern on the firewall side was, and got a response that included the following chart. The email also explained that the mounting studs are on a 3 3/8" square pattern.

After a quick trip to the garage with a tape measure, I'm preeetty sure these will work, but I thought I'd run it by the man himself first.

Thoughts, CaptainFab?

[Bison]

I can't edit my post above for some reason, so here's the link to the boosters.

[Captainfab]

The booster hole pattern in all of my booster brackets is 3-3/8" x 3-1/2". To use a aftermarket universal booster with the 3-3/8" x 3-3/8: stud pattern, you simply need to elongate the holes slightly with a round file.

[Bison]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The booster hole pattern in all of my booster brackets is 3-3/8" x 3-1/2". To use a aftermarket universal booster with the 3-3/8" x 3-3/8: stud pattern, you simply need to elongate the holes slightly with a round file.

Awesome, then that's exactly what I'm going to do!