NOT so EZ wiring

[kev2809]

ah I see. following that 2nd diagram, I run the blue wire to the white wire connector. i see now that tab is connected to the left tab, which is the jumper wire to the pump.
everything else I will have to make up with what wire I have laying around.

[kev2809]

i went back to my original harness and pulled the wiper wires and plugs right out, piece of cake. i snipped the yellow wire that ran to the fuse block. i will depin that wire, and wire in my blue ez wire with the yellow jumper and everything should be exactly like factory. i just need to figure out what that yellow wire on the far right (bottom of the picture) went to. has a grommet like it went through the firewall. ill look around at some diagrams and see if i can figure it out

[LS short box]

Yeah 2002 is the Gen 3 LS engine series.

[kev2809]

worked a little on the wiring some more. after the wiper switch i went at the cig lighter. tied my ez wire cig wire (gray) to the red wire. this cig lighter is from lmc truck. the red wire goes to the middle prong on lighter, wired to the gray ez wire. the blue wire is a light that will get spliced to the brown ez wire for cluster lights. i will run a ground to it as well, although i think the housing grounds itself the dash. better safe than sorry

also got the brake switch wired up, minus the 12 volt key wire. im going make a ground distribution block and a 12 volt key distribution block and mount them on the firewall somewhere, inside the truck. i think a wire from the "ACC" on the fuse block will give the distribution block its feed. that way i have options in the future for tapping into 12 volt key sources.

will move on to the NSS when i my column gets back from the rebuild.

[VetteVet]

FYI the brown 12 gauge wire on the key switch powers the fuse panel for the wipers, heater, turn signal switch, and maybe a couple of others. Thats a lot of current to draw from the key with the ignition and The key switch feed to the fuse panel.
A direct feed to a distribution block might be an overload for the key switch. I would recommend feeding a relay for the distribution block from the key switch.

The IGN UNfused terminal would be ideal for the relay power coil.

[kev2809]

ok. so your saying run a wire from the "ACC" fuse location, to a relay, then to a distribution block?

"ACC" wire to pin 30, pin 87 to 12 volt distribution block, pin 85 to ground distribution block, unsure on pin 86 since thats usually where a switch gets wired... correct?

also wanted me to make sure the "ACC" fuse location is a 12 volt key.

i have other wires throughout the dash that wont be used - power windows, power locks, power antennae (also have heat and ac, but will keep those just in case for future). but i think i will wrap those up and tuck them in the dash.

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by kev2809

ok. so your saying run a wire from the "ACC" fuse location, to a relay, then to a distribution block?

"ACC" wire to pin 30, pin 87 to 12 volt distribution block, pin 85 to ground distribution block, unsure on pin 86 since thats usually where a switch gets wired... correct?

also wanted me to make sure the "ACC" fuse location is a 12 volt key.

i have other wires throughout the dash that wont be used - power windows, power locks, power antennae (also have heat and ac, but will keep those just in case for future). but i think i will wrap those up and tuck them in the dash.

Yes I didn't see that you had a different fuse block. The relay draws so little
amperage that you can use almost any source to close it. Run your ACC wire to no.86 on the relay and ground the no.85 on the relay then run any key off battery power source to no. 30 on the relay and run the power wire to your distribution block from the no. 87 terminal. Then when you turn on the key you will send power to the distribution block without running it through the key switch. It would be a good idea to fuse the power wire going to the no. 30 terminal as well. I would use a 30 amp maxi-fuse.

[kev2809]

ok seems easy enough. ACC wire to 86. dist. block to 87. 12 volt battery to 30 (with 30 amp in line fuse). ground to 85

will try to get to it this weekend so I can move along with this wiring, been working on my gauge cluster and getting the column back in!

[kev2809]

before I get on that relay, I had a quick question on the neutral safety switch. I understand the purple sol. wire gets interrupted by the switch. the kit comes with a separate purple wire labeled "neutral safety switch". so I cut the sol wire and plugged it into the switch, and I soldered the the separate nss wire to the cut sol. wire fro. the ign switch, and that plugged into the other terminal on that switch.

my question is how does the reverse wire get split? it's one green wire labeled "backup power". Im assuming this goes the other plug for the nss on the column...the v shaped one. do I just plug it to either side of the plug, and leave the other empty?

[kev2809]

after looking through the stock wiring diagrams and my original harness...it had 2 green wires. from the plug, one wire went into the fuse block, the other runs all the way to the back reverse lights.

well the new fuse block isnt set up this way, as far as i can tell. the rear reverse light wires run up front to the fuse block, then a single green wire labeled "backup power" comes from the fuse block and apparently goes to the NSS, im guessing.

[kev2809]

got my little power/ground area mounted. really didnt want to weld that plate to the wall but oh well. left bank strip is the 12 volt key. middle 2 stud is the 12 volt battery. and right black strip is obviously the ground strip. ran that one to a bolt on the column bracket.

waiting on some connectors to make it in to wire up the column. still a little puzzled on the green "backup power" wire

[dmjlambert]

The light on the truck that shines rearward while you are in reverse is the "backing light" or "backing lamp." I think "backup power" may be an always hot wire that goes to a modern radio that allows it to keep favorite radio station presets. For your backing lights you can send power from an available accessory or key-on fuse like turn signal fuse, and pass it through the switch on the steering column, and rearward to the lights.

[kev2809]

it has 2 radio wires already, one for power and one for memory. I don't see anything remotely close that would serve as the reverse wire for the neutral safety switch. the only wires remaining are a group I bundled up that has: power door locks, power windows, ac power, fan, fan power, power antenna, and cruise control (none of which I will use right now)

the 2 radio wires are bundled up by the radio area already.

the wires with terminals already on them go to the column harness (signal switch).

this green "backup power" is the only wire left.

[dmjlambert]

Well since you have a memory wire, and if the engine computer doesn't need "backup power," then perhaps it can be used for backing lights. Can you tell the name of the fuse the "backup power" wire comes from? Interesting there is a "backup cruise" fuse label.

[kev2809]

I see what you mean. I think that the print was printed too close together. I'm guessing it should read "backup" and "cruise" separately?

but the green backup power wire runs to the "backup" on the fuseblock

[kev2809]

ok, I may have found something here. I found another green wire that I had zip tied to my dash wires, but I believe it doesn't belong.

it's labeled "left back up" and it runs all the way to the back tail light harness. so, I'm wondering if this wire and the green "backup power" wire are the 2 that go to the neutral safety switch?

and if they do, which wire would go to which terminal?

[dmjlambert]

I would try it. I don't think it matters which terminal you use, it is just an on-off switch.

[kev2809]

the original wiring I believe had it this way. on the 2 green wires from the original nss plug...1 runs to the fusebox, the other to the rear harness. this has to be the same 2 wires I'm thinking. hope it's right because once I cut them to fit the plug, that's it lol

[VetteVet]

You are correct, there are 2 green wires and 2 purple wires on the NSS. the green wires are for the backup lights. There is another green wire that goes to
the back harness which is the right passenger brake/turn light. The backup wire is light green and the other wire is dark green.

[Ramiro0727]

Originally Posted by kev2809

the original wiring I believe had it this way. on the 2 green wires from the original nss plug...1 runs to the fusebox, the other to the rear harness. this has to be the same 2 wires I'm thinking. hope it's right because once I cut them to fit the plug, that's it lol

Kev2809 which transmission are you you using with your LS swap? If your using a 4l60E transmission. You can use the neutral safety switch off the transmission. That will power up your reverse lights.

Thanks,
Ramiro

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

You are correct, there are 2 green wires and 2 purple wires on the NSS. the green wires are for the backup lights. There is another green wire that goes to
the back harness which is the right passenger brake/turn light. The backup wire is light green and the other wire is dark green.



Attachment 2206918

thanks for the diagram. im glad I kept my old fuse box, that thing has helped a lot. I'll get the connector off the old harness and crimp and clip the new wires to it. still have to make a 12 volt wire to run from the brake switch to my little power area I made. it's getting there!

next up will be the column but that looks like a piece of cake. I ordered an adapter plug to fit the flat style connector, so I will be snipping the original crescent plug off and crimp on the flat connector.

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by Ramiro0727

Kev2809 which transmission are you you using with your LS swap? If your using a 4l60E transmission. You can use the neutral safety switch off the transmission. That will power up your reverse lights.

Thanks,
Ramiro

4l60E.

I thought about using it, but the column switch was already there and apparently the wires under the dash were basically there too. so if it's wired right, it should work like the stock truck wiring did.

[kev2809]

so i would say the interior is complete for everything being used for now. need to find a clean way to bundle the unusued stuff out the way and tidy everything up. also went with the flat style connector for the column, snipped off the old crescent style.

now im moving on to under the hood. the high/low beams, signal lights, horn....all that is self explanatory. what im trying to figure out is which are needed for the power. this ez kit comes with a lot of power wires - coil positive, alternator power, solenoid power, choke power, ignition switch power, alternator exciter wire.

with the ls swap, the engine harness only needs 4 wires i need to hook up - fuel pump, 12 volt battery, 12 volt key, starter wire.

the starter wire i will tie into the ez wire purple "ignition switch power"
the fuel pump wire i will run back under the frame to the fuel pump
the 12 volt battery i will run to the battery (obviously)
the 12 volt key i will run inside to the power panel i made under the dash.

so my quesion is, being i have a ls swap, which power wires are actually needed from the ez wire kit? i have no choke, no coil, the alternator is wired in the ls harness. is all that is needed is the purple "ignition switch power", which goes to ls harness starter wire... and the red "solenoid power", which will run directly to the battery?

oil wire wont be used since its a mechanical gauge, temp wire i will seperate and run to the passenger side temp sender in the block, tach wire doesnt get used since the ls harness has one.

[VetteVet]

The basic thing you need to remember is that all your key off power sources need to go to the same distribution center. This includes the alternator with the engine running of course. Then you can feed all of your loads that are key off, Headlights, hazards, courtesy lights, etc.
Then you can feed your fuse panel and your key switch to activate any relays, ignition, accessories from there. Your alternator will be the main source of power once the engine is running, and the key is on.

You do not have to run the large battery cable to the distribution center (main junction), as long as you run at least an 8 gauge wire from the battery positive to the junction for engine off, key off power. Most of the post 74 trucks used the positive post on the starter to run power to the truck through fusible links.

If you plan on keeping the battery gauge instead of a voltmeter then you will have to wire like the factory did.

I highly recommend using relays for the fuel pump, the headlights, and the key switch to take the load off those items. the starter solenoid is also a good candidate but the key switch handles it well because of the short time it usually draws current.

[kev2809]

shouldnt the ez wire fuse box do all this?

the small panel I ran under the dash is for simple add ons. I added a 12 volt key strip for the power to the brake switch, and the check engine light (from the ls harness) power I believe (I'd have to go back and check). that 12 volt battery terminal under there is for the power to the relay for the 12 volt key strip.

the ls engine harness is only left with the 4 wires mentioned above. the underhood wiring for the truck using the ez wiring is what im trying to get connected.

i figured running the power wires where they go should all that would be left..not adding relays to them? unless im not understanding fully here

the battery gauge i added runs to the power feed for the cluster harness i made. the ez wire kit has a "gauge power" red wire that is supposed to be used for all the "battery feeds" for the guages. so i tied it into that