C10 coil drop vs spindle drop

[theastronaut]

You can always use a bolt on spacer to make factory drum brake wheels clear the calipers.

On my latest '66 I used a CPP disc/drop spindle kit, cut one full coil, completely cut off the bump stop bracket, factory drum brake wheels, 1.5" bolt on spacers, and 215/75 tires.

For the rear I wanted to be able to adjust the height so I did D2600 bags with schrader valves, 2" drop blocks so the bags weren't too compressed at ride height, the FrizzleFry shock relocation, and old aftermarket 8" chrome reverse hubcap wheels painted to match. The rear shocks I used are too stiff and it's low enough to need a C-notch for more travel. The front is perfect though- no bottoming out at all.

[Chevy nutcase]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

You can always use a bolt on spacer to make factory drum brake wheels clear the calipers.

On my latest '66 I used a CPP disc/drop spindle kit, cut one full coil, completely cut off the bump stop bracket, factory drum brake wheels, 1.5" bolt on spacers, and 215/75 tires.

For the rear I wanted to be able to adjust the height so I did D2600 bags with schrader valves, 2" drop blocks so the bags weren't too compressed at ride height, the FrizzleFry shock relocation, and old aftermarket 8" chrome reverse hubcap wheels painted to match. The rear shocks I used are too stiff and it's low enough to need a C-notch for more travel. The front is perfect though- no bottoming out at all.

that sure is a purdy truck sir. I've honestly never been so torn on what i should do. The truck failed PA state inspection because of bad brake lining and cracked hoses and reverse lights don't work soooo I have to do something. I very well could coil drop the front, rebuild and keep the front drums but for the expense of new drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, spring kits and all new hoses and hard lines I'm not saving much from a disk/drop kit but I'm petty sure i have the dreaded 16" factory style wheels that will not clear the calipers. they have that weird angled step in the middle of the backspace. Now I hear 1.5" spacers will solve this. you mentioned using 215 75s, is that for fender clearance when turning? right now it has nearly new 235 75s on it and I'm going to see in the morning if I can tell if spacing them out 1.5" will rub.

[lilpoindexter]

For many years I've wondered if there was enough demand for someone to make a 60-66 drop spindle for drums. Drums are good enough for most cruisers, and they look old school cool. I would just put a dual master in it, and it would be good to go.

[Chevy nutcase]

after much deliberation Ive decided to cut the front coils, rebuild all 4 corners of the brakes with new hard and soft lines, add a dual master cyl, and new coils out back. with a $1500 difference its a no brainer after what i spent on the truck alone. almost definitely Ill be doing a front disk and complete 5 lug conversion down the road but ill have to keep my eyes out for a good set of rims and hopefully a complete rear from a 71 or 72

[LostMy65]

When you cut the coils, do you need to add some shims back in to get the camber correct?

[Paul Y]

If you have the front suspension apart would now be a good time to do the caster mod?

...and so the scope creep begins.....

P. D

[Chevy nutcase]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

When you cut the coils, do you need to add some shims back in to get the camber correct?

Almost certainly will have to adjust some shims. If the shim stack is too big I'll likely mic the thickness and mill individual spacers because I dont like seeing a multitude of shims and I don't trust the stability

[Chevy nutcase]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

If you have the front suspension apart would now be a good time to do the caster mod?

...and so the scope creep begins.....

P. D

I probably wont be doing any caster mods because one, there will be drop spindles and disk brakes on this at some point in the near future and two, I need to do a little more research on how best to do it and what my gains will be

[LostMy65]

As long as you are adjusting the shims, you might as well add as many as you can to the front bolt.
And then you take out as many as you can from the rear bolt until camber is correct.
This causes the top A-arm to move back and gives you more caster. That's what I did on my 65. Any additional caster you can get helps.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by Chevy nutcase

I'm petty sure i have the dreaded 16" factory style wheels that will not clear the calipers. they have that weird angled step in the middle of the backspace. Now I hear 1.5" spacers will solve this. you mentioned using 215 75s, is that for fender clearance when turning? right now it has nearly new 235 75s on it and I'm going to see in the morning if I can tell if spacing them out 1.5" will rub.

16's should clear, the factory drum 15's are the ones that wont' clear.


I wanted the staggered look so I used 215's. 225 or 235 should clear at this height. I can go full lock with 215's with no rubbing. On my last truck with the same setup but 1.5 coils cut it would rub the fenders when turning, rub the inner fenders over bumps, and the crossmember would scrape the ground over big bumps.


The caster mod is great.... if you have power steering. Mine doesn't and its a good bit harder to steer at parking lot speeds. It's probably 3-4x as hard to turn as the stock '65 I restored that doesn't have power steering, although it's on bias plies that make it a little easier to steer.


I took all the shims out of mine with one coil cut and it barely has any negative camber. Maybe -1 degree at most.