$999 for a Dropmember

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by 68laydout

This could get ugly, but here goes. Maybe if a shop is doing it, but if you do it yourself there is no way cost is comparable. I just got all the info from Nate on what it takes to get a dropmember installed and if I had the extra cash I would go for it, for sure! Since I'm on a crappy budget I will have to stick with the Z route, which will cost me less than $600 bucks total. Little more work than a DM install, but cheaper no doubt. No comparison in cost and I did not want to start anything here, just stating the facts.

There's no doubt that if you are qualified and able to Z your frame, then the actual money laid out to do the job would be less than a Dropmember conversion. If you were paying a qualified fabricator "time and materials" to do the job, then it would most likely be more affordable to go with the DM.

I don't want to get to deep into the "Z" vs. Dropmember debate, but when comparing ALL the pros and cons to each method (not just price), the Dropmember wins hands down.

I know budget is a concern with the majority of us guys building these trucks, so I will do a quick breakdown on parts and average costs. I do not sell all the parts listed, but will post up a parts/accessories list with descriptions/part numbers/sources to find them. The below prices would be what I consider "average" with room for savings if you're a savvy shopper.

Dropmember $999
Shipping on DM $100
Bags $150
Shocks $75
Rack and pinion $175
Steering linkage $280
Power Steering lines $65


My math says that's just under $1850. This price would be the bare essentials to get you rolling. And I wouldn't be surprised if there was $100 to save by spending some time on-line. Drop spindles and possibly tubular arms MIGHT be necesary to lay frame depending on your tire diameter.

Here's the parts list:
Dropmember Accessory List

I have put this list together to assist my customers in purchasing the necessary components to complete the installation of the Dropmember.

Dropmember: $999

Includes: Main cross-member; inner frame support plates; upper control arm/bag mounts; motor mounts (specify SBC, BBC, GENIII); transmission cross-member; shock mounts; billet tie-rod ends and chromoly heims w/hardware; billet rack and pinion mounting bushings; rack notches (weld-in frame for tie-rod clearance); shock mounts; all hardware necessary to install the Dropmember.

Below is a picture of the new Dropmember design. The main design change is found in the lower control arm mount. I have eliminated the billet mounting blocks found on the original Dropmember, and gone to a machined saddle that utilizes the factory style U-bolt to secure the lower control arm shaft.


Rack and Pinion Steering:

The rack and pinion used with the Dropmember is from a 1979-1993 Mustang application. Both power and manual rack and pinion units can be purchased through Unisteer Performance (www.unisteer.com). Also, 22-201F is a Parts Master part number that can easily be cross referenced by any local parts house, saving up to $100.


Steering Linkage 63-72:

You will need three u-joints, a support bearing, and steering shaft to connect your column to your rack and pinion. Steering linkage and joints can be sourced through Borgeson (www.borgeson.com)

Column end u-joint:

On the 63-66 factory column you will need a 3/4smooth bore by 3/4DD u-joint.

On the 67-72 factory column you will need a 3/4-36spline by 3/4DD u-joint.

Middle U-joint:

The middle joint of the linkage is a 3/4DD by 3/4DD u-joint.

Rack and Pinion U-joint:

If using a power rack and pinion, the u-joint for the rack end is a 3/4-36 x 3/4DD u-joint.

If using a manual rack and pinion, the u-joint for the rack end is a 9/16-26 x 3/4DD.

Shaft Support Bearing:

The shaft support bearing is a spherical rod-end, also known as a heim-joint.

Steering Shaft:

At least 18” of 3/4DD shaft will be needed.

Steering Linkage 73-87:

You will need three u-joints, a support bearing, and steering shaft to connect your column to your rack and pinion. Steering linkage and joints can be sourced through Borgeson (www.borgeson.com)

Column end u-joint:

On the 73-87 factory columns there are two possible options:
1"DD x 3/4DD
1"-48 x 3/4DD

Middle U-joint:

The middle joint of the linkage is a 3/4DD by 3/4DD u-joint.

Rack and Pinion U-joint:

If using a power rack and pinion, the u-joint for the rack end is a 3/4-36 x 3/4DD u-joint.

If using a manual rack and pinion, the u-joint for the rack end is a 9/16-26 x 3/4DD.


Shaft Support Bearing:

The shaft support bearing is a spherical rod-end, also known as a heim-joint

Steering Shaft:

At least 18” of 3/4DD shaft will be needed.

Power Steering Lines:

Power Steering lines are best sourced through Borgeson (www.borgeson.com) part#925102.

Shocks:

Monroe 32245 or equivalent are used with the Dropmember.

Bags:

Slam Specialties RE7 air springs are recommended for use with the Dropmember. A Firestone bag will allow approx. ½” more drop.


Control Arms:

The Dropmember was designed to be used with Air Ride Technologies Strong Arms, however, factory arms can be used. 63-72 control arms may be used with slight modifications for clearance; and 73-87 factory arms with no modifications for clearance. Factory lower arms will need to be modified to accept an air bag (i.e. bag plate or cup). We do offer a bag plate that bolts to the top of the lower control arm.

Headers:

When running a Small Block Chevy motor, Hooker headers part# 2466HKR work excellent
When running an LS1 or GenIII motor, I have had customers run 2000 F-body headers from Hooker.

[68laydout]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

I don't want to get to deep into the "Z" vs. Dropmember debate, but when comparing ALL the pros and cons to each method (not just price), the Dropmember wins hands down.

No doubt about it. If I had the money I would get the DM...maybe one of these days.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

That's an amazing deal Nate. You should throw out a cost analysis for those that are considering a shop doing their Z vs your new low price Dropmember. I think the costs would be very similar if not in favor of the Dropmemeber.

No doubt it would look better than a Z, and be more structurally sound. It will also help with the resale value of your truck. I know I would much rather buy a truck that the frame had not been cut unless I could verify the integrity of the build.

I agree 100%! Now I am a certified welder (20+yrs) and I have been fabricating chassis for almost as long as well as major body mods. I also have a full laser sited frame table right in the center of my shop so doing a perfect Z'd frame is easy for my with out a doubt. The reason I mention this is just to show I have the 1) ability, 2) the tools, 3) the shop space and time but what did I do Monday but send my $1099 (DM + shipping) off to Nate for my 3/4ton 4dr Burb DropMenber

One key point people are forgetting is not only the price is great but also you get much better handling than a Z'd frame. The geometry has been changed just a bit to account for the vehicle being lowered so much as well as the rack and pinion being added and that is a biggy! Stock trucks have 6 steering /control arm joints to all add just a bit of slack to the steering feel even if they are new. With a R&P you now have 2 and this gives a much better feel and response!

I will be doing a How-To write up for the Burb install from start to finish with a 5.3 Vortec and the DropMember just to show how easy it is for anyone wanting to see it done or who has any questions about how easy it really is!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[revn67]

oh hell yeah!! i just found this post and im am getting one by next month now! i have the bags and art control arms...so all i would need is the rack, all the steering stuff, and power steering lines..this is great! i'm down with a group buy as well if anyone is gonna order one in a month...

[Longstep70]

I wish these were applicable for the 55-59 years. Nate, is the narrower track of the earlier year the stumbling block for transferring the tech over to the earlier models?
-Andy