Two piece driveshaft support bearing trouble

[MAC71Cheyenne]

So as some will recall, I replaced this thing not too long ago. Maybe have 300 miles on it. Think it was about 35$, OEM quality direct replacement, not! The spot welds on the mounting plate have broke and now have to replace it again. Bought a solid billit aluminum bearing this time. Hopefully it will take care of the issue because this is a general P.I.T.A. to do.
Do as you want but fair warning, never again with the folded spot welded pos.
Moving to Florida in a couple weeks and at least it didn't toast itself on the road.

[68Gold/white]

Yeah...those suck!!!
I sold auto parts from 1985-1998, even the good name brand units, were not that great.

I've seen the billet units, look like the way to go. The cheaper ones need work, if you plan on trying to use one. THe spot welds are NOT strong enough. THat plate needs to be MIG welded all the way around that plate to ensure everything stays together.

I plan on having drive shafts made for my 67 and 68, with the horse shoe typ bearing, and a heavy duty one, at that!!!

I call those "dingle berry" carrier bearings...

[Jason Banks]

The spot welds broke on mine. I welded it back together. Still going strong, several years later.

[MAC71Cheyenne]

Definitely live n learn. Never a great fan of this style bearing but it is what it is. If anyone doesn't want to go the billit route I would definitely mig weld the thing and maybe even tack on a 1/4 steel plate on both sides for additional strength.

[68Gold/white]

I'd mig weld that plate, securely. Then maybe a piece of flat steel form the edge of the plate to the bearing housing area. That would stop most of the flex...

[HO455]

Is your truck lowered?

[lutronjim]

My 70 C10 sss had a 2 piece that gave constant yearly trouble. A friend found a one piece in junk yard that worked - used for 'bout 15 years - can't remember if he said what it was from.

[firedemon]

i had a brand new one couldnt have been a week old do that first time i spun the tires . mig welded it so far so good 2 years later

[lil hoodlum]

Originally Posted by MAC71Cheyenne

So as some will recall, I replaced this thing not too long ago. Maybe have 300 miles on it. Think it was about 35$, OEM quality direct replacement, not! The spot welds on the mounting plate have broke and now have to replace it again. Bought a solid billit aluminum bearing this time. Hopefully it will take care of the issue because this is a general P.I.T.A. to do.
Do as you want but fair warning, never again with the folded spot welded pos.
Moving to Florida in a couple weeks and at least it didn't toast itself on the road.

I had one do the same. You don't want to see how I "rednecked" fixed it. I didn't weld it back together.

[MAC71Cheyenne]

Still has the original springs so it technically not lowered but it is time to replace the springs. Sets about an inch n half low from sheet specs.
About six feet of concrete form wire wrapped around the the bearing frame and over the support got it home without flopping around or damaging anything.
First test run and its smooth as a babes butt. There is no slop or "tink" when putting it in drive or when it shifts gears. Took care of the vibration at about 35mph too. The thin sheet bearing housing on the old one had some side to side flex in it, I could wobble it by hand and you could see the flex in it. Not really something you want on a driveshaft.

[Davidf]

I had one do that. My experience with the carrier bearings is that they don’t last long...usually rubber gives up in short order. Wondering if preloading the bearing would help. That is force it forward before tightening.

I’m giving up and currently having a single piece (3.5” diameter, $375) shaft made for my LS swap (lwb). 1350 u-joint up front and stock 1310 u-joint in the rear.

[Happy_dan]

I wish I saw this thread earlier. I just replaced mine after 100 miles on a new one. I was going to weld it all the way around but figured they knew what they were doing when they designed them. Maybe I'll take it back out and weld it to be safer.

I also saw a replacement on Summit that is expensive but it's poly and looks really beefy, I figured if mine breaks again, I'll either weld it or replace it with the Poly one.

It is a real PIA to do these. I don't want to get that good at it by repetition.

[MAC71Cheyenne]

I replaced mine with the solid aluminum poly bushing one. Driving it I can tell it is the better option. There is no side play at all, no vibrations. For the difference in price its just not worth the hassles of the folded sheet metal piece of junk. It may be the same style as the original but the quality of material is polar opposite. The 50 year old original bearing was toast but the rubber and steel was actually still in good shape.

[MAC71Cheyenne]

And just for fun comparison, a couple of photos of the original GM Bearing housing. Substantially heavier construction.