Getting in the game

[geoman]

Hey guys!

Just wanted to say hi and have a few questions. I am starting the teardown of my old jalopy to build a nice street/strip ride. Plans are for the restoration look but able to get up and go. Right now it has a 355/400 combo which willl get a good rebuild with forged internals, good heads and cam, and a little spray.

What have you guys done with the tank behind the seat? Just add a fuel cell? I want to keep the factory look and not modify the body.

I have a set of 15x8 truck rally wheels and I want to get a 11-12" under it. I am thinking of having the wheel widened to 15x10 to fit a 28x12 drag radial or et street tires.

I will be posting up after this weekend as the big swap meet is this weekend and most of the old body parts are getting replaced with better quality.

Later guys!
Mike

[chevy72blu]

Originally Posted by geoman

Hey guys!

Just wanted to say hi and have a few questions. I am starting the teardown of my old jalopy to build a nice street/strip ride. Plans are for the restoration look but able to get up and go. Right now it has a 355/400 combo which willl get a good rebuild with forged internals, good heads and cam, and a little spray.

What have you guys done with the tank behind the seat? Just add a fuel cell? I want to keep the factory look and not modify the body.

I have a set of 15x8 truck rally wheels and I want to get a 11-12" under it. I am thinking of having the wheel widened to 15x10 to fit a 28x12 drag radial or et street tires.

I will be posting up after this weekend as the big swap meet is this weekend and most of the old body parts are getting replaced with better quality.

Later guys!
Mike

Welcome aboard! Since you are getting a new rotating assembly anyway, spend the few extra bucks and stroke it to a 383- its easy HP. Consider retrofitting it with a roller cam as well, if you can afford it. If not, you can still make plenty of power with a flat tappet, its just not as smooth. I would go with a steel crank rather than forged, unless you plan on forced induction and 800+ HP; its just not necessary. Forged pistons and H beam rods are nice, however, if you plan on spending a lot of time on the bottle. If you need any equipment recommendations, just ask. There are some really knowledgeable guys on this forum.

Many of us (I havent yet, but will soon) install a fuel cell either in the bed or below it. The Blazer tanks are popular and can be found pretty cheap, while just mounting a cell in the bed over the pumpkin is very easy (not a problem if you are going to use a tonneau and dont use it as a truck any more). FUELCELL GUY makes custom tanks to order and can fit your frame rails perfectly. Do a search on the main 67-72 board, you will get a ton of replies.

A 15x10 with a 12" wide tire will tuck just fine with the right amount of backspacing, and no modifications. What rear end are you going to use?

What type of times are you looking for? The faster you want to go, the more you need to consider things like weight reduction, suspension, etc.

Enjoy it! Where are our pics?

[geoman]

Hi!

Yes, I was considering on throwing in the 400 crank to make it a 383.

I havent torn the currnet engine yet so I am not sure what I will have to start with. If its a steel crank, then I will be keeping it. Forged pistons and a good set of rods such as eagle, etc. are in the works.

No blowers or turbos right now. Nothing wrong with them but I will go BBC before I go that route.

Thanks for the info on the tank information. I will look into it.

I think that wheel/tire combo will be perfect for me. I am running a coil spring/trailing arm rear with a 3.73 posi, 12-bolt.

I will be running the 1/8th until I get more comfortable with the truck. Looking for mid 7's are my goal right now. I am going to keep the truck as stock looking as possible inside and out but will be removing weight out here and there as I go along. Going with a wood floor instead of the rusted out steel stocker so that should help.

Suspension will be completely rebuilt front and rear as well as new body bushings.

I will take a pic this week as I will be tearing it down to the frame and cab...Starting from scratch. It is a 67 with a 69-72 front clip and a beat up bed.

Later!
Mike

[djracer]

Welcome to the addiction! I know a guy that has a 400 crank with flywheel and balancer. 250

the gm powder coated metal rods are cheap and decent!

[Couch]

right on with the build. nitrous is the way to go.lol. the 15 x 10 truck rallye is what i run, i like em theyre just real heavy. if you wanna run a 28 x "fat" DR i recommend the MT ET street drag radials 325/50r15's but im not sure it'll clear the wheel wells on a fleetside,i know i had to cut mine on my stepside to clear with a 5'' backspacing. but that tire rocks. i run butt stock susp. and it hooks decently with a 1.7 60'. but if your running 1/8 with 3.73's that tire seems a little tall. i run 4.10's and i only do a mid to high 7 in the 1/8.any ways goodluck and if you have any questions feel free.

[geoman]

thanks for the welcome and all the advice. Here is my piece of do-do. Started the teardown tonight after it has been in storage for 6 months. It is a 67 with a 69-70 grille and bed. I have ALOT of work to do but it will get there soon.

Sorry I do not know how to downsize my photos yet so here it is on my photobucket account.

Mike

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...IMG_0026-1.jpg
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...IMG_0027-1.jpg
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...IMG_0028-1.jpg
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...IMG_0030-1.jpg
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...IMG_0031-2.jpg

[ripdog28]

Excellent looking truck to start with.. no big noticeable bad spots that need to be patched..
BUT
Are you sure it is a 67? I know you said 69-70 grill but is a 69 grill and your front fenders and hood hint to being after 67. I would guess it is a 69. I would check the title but i may be wrong and you just have more parts from after 67..

and why a 400 crank? they make so many 350 cranks with the 3.75 stroke for cheaper... Grinding a 400 crank to a 350 journal old school.

[geoman]

It needs rockers, cab corners and some floor work and I am replacing the gutters from a parts cab. I have all the parts now. yipee!

yes its a 67, title, cab and original frame. The entire front clip was put on from a 69-72 model and of course the bed is not a 67 because of the marker lights. It will get the correct sheetmetal after I restore the frame, suspension, etc.

I did not know about the 350 crank with a 3.75 stroke. Yes, I am old school and that is why I thought about using a 400 crank I will look into the new 3.75 cranks you talked about. It may be less expensive. When I tear down the motor and see what I have, I will go from there.

Thanks
mike

[ripdog28]

check out this site http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...666&CtgID=7655

http://www.speedomotive.com/s-85-sbc...0-2-piece.aspx

both sites have a ton of stuff