In-Cab Gas Tank ARRRGH!

[cericd]

I recently had my carb rebuilt in my 1970 C10 and the guy recommended that I get a new gas tank since my tank was the original. I looked on the forum and saw that the Spectra (Canada) brand of tank was pretty well liked and it had good reviews on other websites. So, I ordered one from a local Autozone. When it arrived I noticed that it seemed well built and had the same weight as the original tank but the angle of the neck was off. I had read that that may be an issue and that it could be carefully massaged and realigned with a length of pipe so that's what I did. I very carefully pulled the neck down so that it would fit through the hole in the side of the cab. It still wasn't at the angle of the original tank but I figured it would work. Well, it must've created a hairline fracture at the point where the neck is soldered to the tank because it leaks gas at that area when I'm driving. So, I spoke with the people at Autozone and they ordered me another one which I compared to the original tank and the angle is still way off, I thought maybe the first one had been dropped on the neck during shipment but I guess it's a design flaw. So, it got returned to Autozone.

We have a local place that specializes in these old trucks so I went and got a tank from them, Counter Parts brand (Taiwan). The first thing I noticed with this tank is that it is much lighter. The front wall of the tank will actually flex if gently pressed. Also, it is stated to be a tank for 67-71 Chevy/GMC truck without EEC. Well, my gas cap fits but the neck is narrower than my original (which was not an issue with the Spectra tank) so I would need a new grommet and I had just replaced my original with one of the good ones from Wes at Classic Heartbeat. So, the Counter Parts tank is going back.

Can anyone recommend a brand of replacement in-bed tank that will fit without modification, takes the correct size 1970 gas cap and has the correct size neck for a 1970?

Here are some pics.

Spectra tank neck angle after being realigned to "fit" the truck. Still the wrong angle.

[cericd]

Second Spectra tank compared to my original tank.

[cericd]

Counterparts tank. Tank made of thinner metal, good neck alignment but too narrow.

[body bolt]

I haven't found a replacement tank I like. I replaced my '71 EEC tank with one from Dorman. I had the same neck misalignment issue plus the bottom flange didn't have then angle in it. I got the neck corrected and had to reluctantly beat the angle into the bottom flange without disturbing the seam. I still haven't been able to find a grommet that fits properly and doesn't rot. I kept my original tank and plan to get it boiled out and lined.

[cericd]

I wouldn’t mind having my original tank dipped and sealed but I got a quote of $475 from a local place that does the Renu service. I’ve seen that the sealants in the “do-it-yourself” tank refurb kits tend to peel off and cause more issues.

[body bolt]

Originally Posted by cericd

I wouldn’t mind having my original tank dipped and sealed but I got a quote of $475 from a local place that does the Renu service. I’ve seen that the sealants in the “do-it-yourself” tank refurb kits tend to peel off and cause more issues.

I don't know what it will cost here as the places I knew of that did it are no longer around.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Actually you meant to say In-Cab-Tank. An In-Bed tank is in the rear, under the bed, between framerails. Like on Blazers and Suburbans.
That being said, I appreciate your frustration.
I was lucky, I R&R'ed my in cab tank with a boiled out one from a '67 twenty years ago, when it wasn't so tough supporting these trucks. The Chevy dealer did sell me the wrong grommet. And my gas gauge has read from 11 o'clock to 3 o'clock [instead of 10 to 2], but I know where my fuel level is anyway, since I also log my miles and gas intake.
I would have a shop boil out your original tank. If it doesn't leak, a coating isn't needed, and might dissolve and clog up the works anyway.

[cericd]

You’re right. I meant in-cab but I can’t figure out how to change it. I’d really rather use the original tank if possible. I never noticed it leaking before. I was concerned about rust in the future.

[jimijam00]

For someone that can weld, it's not hard to fix the problem with one of these aftermarket tanks. For $50, I bet a guy could have someone do it for them.

I got a new tank last year from my local O'Reillys. It was close, and went in. It was as heavy as the old one I took out, though it probably was not the original. Not perfect neck angle, but not worth effing with. Precision Fuel Tank FT5197.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by cericd

You’re right. I meant in-cab but I can’t figure out how to change it. I’d really rather use the original tank if possible. I never noticed it leaking before. I was concerned about rust in the future.

Looks like a Moderator changed it for you.
I think the original tanks were galvanized against rust.

[toolboxchev]

Have any of you tried GMC Paul's. Those folks are pretty good on the electrical parts offered on their site.

Just sayin,,,,,, cause....

[tristan]

Replacement gas tanks are currently backordered at just about every big parts supplier. I hunted around and paid up to get the niterne Canadian tank from an EBay supplier. The tank arrived with its neck protruding from the shipping box so the angle got a free adjustment in transit courtesy of UPS.

[Killer Bee]

Originally Posted by cericd

I recently had my carb rebuilt in my 1970 C10 and the guy recommended that I get a new gas tank since my tank was the original.
<snip>

in bold is not a good enough reason to replace the tank.. 'the guy' may have just stuck a burr under your saddle.. drain, flush and inspection is required before condemning the old tank.. starting there - what do you see? based on the inspection, treat accordingly..

if no corrosion is discovered, thorough flushing and pressure test for leaks is likely all that's necessary.. if corrosion is discovered, depending how much it can be chemically, mechanically, or boiled out.. a decent radiator shop or full service garage should be able to get that done for you or research various methods you are willing and able to do yourself..

at least that should get you by long enough to source a better original candidate to be prepped for service if that original ends up needing eventual replacement.. lots of truck rebuilders are tossing in cab tanks for relocated varieties so there's bound to be good used available..

also be sure to check your fuel lines, connections and filters and you should have a reliable system.. return all that chinesium crap for refund and spend the savings on some good cold beer..

good luck!

[72c20customcamper]

The fill neck is soldered into the tank . Any radiator or gas tank repair place can take the old neck out and put it in the new tank. I've done this myself with tanks for AMXs . The AMX fills from the license plate the Ramblers from the quarter panel . Same tank just different placement of the neck .

[Rich72C10]

If your original tank damaged or if you don't have a radiator shop in your area this wouldn't work ...

This is what I was worried about too when thinking of replacing my rusted/gummed up tank that was 100% sending trash to my carburetor. Though in East Texas my brother takes all his gas tanks (mainly 20~40 Fords that he restores) for decades to a radiator shop that cleans/seals them.

This work actually cost a bit more than a replacement tank. BUT my cleaned/sealed tank fit right back in and likely will be good forever.

[leddzepp]

I’d look for a good used original. There are LOTS of them listed for sale for cheap due to underbed conversions, LS swaps, etc.

[cericd]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

I’d look for a good used original. There are LOTS of them listed for sale for cheap due to underbed conversions, LS swaps, etc.

I feel like my original is pretty good. This is my first go round with a 50 year old vehicle so I'm not sure how good is good.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by cericd

I feel like my original is pretty good. This is my first go round with a 50 year old vehicle so I'm not sure how good is good.

You may only need to change the ''sock'' filter around the fuel inlet inside the tank.

[CC69Rat]

Hey Chris, I read your PM the other day and I'm sorry man I just haven't had a chance to reply.

Would you be interested in converting it to a 69 Camaro tank and get it completely out of the cab? Is the bed floor of your truck wood or metal?

I'll help you any way I can. You said you just replaced the tank because you were concerned about rust in the tank? Have you see evidence of crud in the fuel lines?

[Accelo]

I get your frustration. How difficult can it be to get this correct? Crappy reproduction parts are the bane of the restoration business.

I guess I might try repairing up your tank you had to bend the neck on. However it's a big PITA after it has had fuel in it. I have done it before by draining the fuel and filling the tank with water before working on it. I don't recommend it as bad things can happen.

Like others suggested you might find a good tank from someone that has changed theirs to the box.

Another option other have mentioned. Here is a Eastwood video of how to clean and seal a tank.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Covk_AxA3Ig

Quanta (from Canada) has a great reputation on correctly made tanks.
https://www.gastanks.com/Pickup-C_K-...products/1958/
You might give them a try if you haven't already.
Rick

[GASoline71]

When I wrecked my '72 C1500 7 years ago and then rebuilt it afterwards I pondered an aftermarket in cab tank. I even pondered an under bed tank. When I removed the original tank out of the cab so I could do rust repair, I stuck it in a shed on the outskirts of our property. Heck I even left a half tank of fuel in it for some odd reason.

Fast forward to 4 years later it was time to reinstall, buy new, or stick a tank under the bed. I chose to reuse. Mainly because of the horror stories i had heard about aftermarket in cab tanks. I also didn't feel like the extra work of sticking it under the bed and figuring out where the filler neck was going to be.

My original was in good shape with no rust in it. Even after sitting in a shed with fuel in it for 4 years it had no rust in it. So I flushed it the best i could, and added a new "filter sock" on the end of the pickup tube, and reintsalled it in the cab. Even resealed nicely in the old original filler neck grommet. Working flawlessly to this day.

So unless you visually inspected the tank and it has either rusted or it has some sort of weird leaking issue. I'd simply reuse the original.

Gary

[Sheepdip]

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/fuel-tank-repair/

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Sheepdip

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/fuel-tank-repair/

Nice clip, Mr Dipp. That does seem do-able. Im thinking of fixing a couple pairs old leaking gerry cans. Considering the current price of new jerry cans -- and then they're so modified as to be pains to work -- rebuilding a MY'44 [Five US GAL] Blitz Can makes sense.
Still good steel to work with.
The cap type is hard to work with -- it can jam, and its proprietary gasket is hard to comeby any more[ I don't get it -- it's a simple donut gasket.]
donut gasket.0 Availabitlty
The new ones are so Idiot Proof, that they've really hazards to work with, and the plastic caps break.
Seen some old school nato 'good' cans from CA surplus outfits that can't sell 'em locally, but will ship anyware for last year's prixce.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

When I wrecked my '72 C1500 7 years ago and then rebuilt it afterwards I pondered an aftermarket in cab tank. I even pondered an under bed tank. When I removed the original tank out of the cab so I could do rust repair, I stuck it in a shed on the outskirts of our property. Heck I even left a half tank of fuel in it for some odd reason.

Fast forward to 4 years later it was time to reinstall, buy new, or stick a tank under the bed. I chose to reuse. Mainly because of the horror stories i had heard about aftermarket in cab tanks. I also didn't feel like the extra work of sticking it under the bed and figuring out where the filler neck was going to be.

My original was in good shape with no rust in it. Even after sitting in a shed with fuel in it for 4 years it had no rust in it. So I flushed it the best i could, and added a new "filter sock" on the end of the pickup tube, and reintsalled it in the cab. Even resealed nicely in the old original filler neck grommet. Working flawlessly to this day.

So unless you visually inspected the tank and it has either rusted or it has some sort of weird leaking issue. I'd simply reuse the original.

Gary

What he said!

[lil hoodlum]

I'll add this to the other posts, I replaced my original fuel tank some 15 years ago with an LMC one if I had to guess. It fit fine but the fuel neck alignment was off. I wanted to try a broom handle to "massage" it to a more ideal place. I believe what I did though in the end was to install the gas tank in the cab and bolting it in place and using a 2# mini sledge and gently persuading the fuel neck down to a more "respectable" location. I do want to stress the "gentle" persuading part though. Just a couple of love taps worked for me though.