HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)

[Captainfab]

Originally Posted by ol Curt

Chief might have got tied up with something or hasn't been on. anybody else know about bleeding the master?

All master cylinders should be bench bled regardless whether they are a manual or power.

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by Barebones66

Excellent thread

Very helpful

thanks !!!

Originally Posted by kizer

Ok, I'm assuming your using the port on the master farthest towards the grill as your front connection and the one closest to your firewall as your rear wheels right or am I backwards or are you going to tell me it doesn't matter?

Yes...thats correct....I couldn't get it to bleed the other way.

Originally Posted by padresag

It would be benificial to most to show what you used for a plug to plug that fitting in the frt tee. for the uninitiated they would have a problem with that ( knowing what it was, and inding a counterperson that knew)
ron

I plan on a complete listing when I'm done with this...thanks

Originally Posted by padresag

'

you can buy a tube bender(not expensive), sandbag or you can find something which has the curve which you need and place the line on it and just slap the line with a flat piece of wood and form it around it. if you try bending it by hand you usually end up with a kink in it
ron

Sandbag.....thats why he mentioned the belly !!

Originally Posted by slepysal

man I got to get mine done!! Thanks John this will be a great help

You welcome !!!

Originally Posted by ol Curt

Did you have to bench bleed the master or is that just done for power brakes?

Originally Posted by ol Curt

Chief might have got tied up with something or hasn't been on. anybody else know about bleeding the master?

Originally Posted by Captainfab

All master cylinders should be bench bled regardless whether they are a manual or power.

Sorry man...I caught this nasty flu virus (that has gone thru my whole family and then some)...so I haven't been on here for a few days.

Thanks Captain....yes you should bench-bleed them. It amazing how much air is trapped in a new master.

[apachedaddy]

I just got the drum/drum boster set off a wrecked truck. Going to put it on and get it working first. Once thats done would i order the same master but for a p/b impala to split the lines??

There is no kragens near me but there is a oreilly's are they the same because they come up on the same web page??

[ljackson]

Here is some info on the MC I think I will use. I think the Pic is at the bottom. The my MC came from orielly;s part number 10-1339 the pic on their site shows a different MC

Fenco Reman / Master Cylinder (Brake System)
For your 1967 Chevrolet Truck C10 1/2 ton P/U 2WD 4.6L 2BL OHV 8cyl PREVIOUS
Price:$14.99

Core*Core value is the used part that manufacturers use for rebuilding. AutoZone charges the core value to customers because manufacturers include it in their prices. When you return your core to AutoZone, we'll refund your core charge.: $9.00

Total:$23.99AVAILABILITY: SEND TO STORE LISTAVAILABLENormally stocked at your local store.
SHIP TO HOMEAVAILABLEShips within 2 business days.

Part Number: M1505
Weight: 8.75 lbs
Warranty: LLT
Application: With front drum brakes

Notes: - installer warning - unit must be bench bled. If you experience any installation problems, call toll free: USA 1-866-787-5132 can 1-800-293-0760

Reservoir: With Reservoir - Built In
Bore Size: 1"
Cylinder Honing: Never Honed
New Sleeved Bore: Yes
Special Installation Notes Included: Yes
Primary - Hole Size and Location: 9/16"-18 Fender Side
Secondary - Hole Size and Location: 1/2"-20 Fender Side


Features & Benefits:

100% : New Sleeved Bore, New Epdm (Ethylene Propylene Diene M) Seals & O Rings, Computerized Multi Stage Tested. Push Rods On All Manual Applications, Includes Part Specific Bleeder Kit

[A.T. RockDriller]

Wonderful thread, ChiefRocka.....
As far as the tough times go.....I sure know how that works.
I'll bet it gets better.....Remember...
" Pain is just weakness leaving the body "
We should be pretty strong when all the crap blows over.
I thought I'd add a little info on my own brake upgrades.
A different twist....the K-1000......4X4 mods.
I swapped my stock frt. & rear diffs for late model Dana 44 & 12 bolt corp. respectively....
Because I wanted to add the Hydro-Boost set-up eventually, I used the down-time to take care of it all at once.
With the new disc brakes and larger rear wheel cyl.s, I thought it wise to add the brake proportioning valve along with new brake lines.
I didn't do near as good a job with the camera as you did, but I did take a few.
I hid the new valve inside the frame-rail just under the driver-side firewall, and split the lines from there in the same order as you explained.
I also took the slide-on spring style tubing shield what-ya-call-its off of the doner 1-ton and used them coming off the master cyl and again in high abrasion or vibration areas like across the cross member, near the rear wheel cyls, etc. I slid them onto the line after the bend, before the fitting and flare work.
Here's the few pic's that show a little of what I did.
I could take a pic of the proportioning valve if anyone wants to see it.
As far as the twin master cylinder set-up that's stock for the '63....the clutch MC sure is a different story. More on that if you're interested on my build thread..."Rockdrillers '63 K1000".

After reviewing the photos, I can't say that I showed you much.
I'll take a few good shots of my work and post them a bit later, as I'm sure this thread will circulate around for some time, being the best reference for brake-line work that I've seen so far
Nice job, Chief.