S10 Swap how to

[steve aleve]

Thanks! That may be what I have to do!

[T-P Auto]

shymangs & steve;

What about useing a hydro boost system that works off the P/S.
Then you don't have the large vac booster.
Most of the hydo boost system were on like 78 chevy 1/2 ton with the funky diesel set up.
Even the 3/4 & 1 tons used the hydo boost system.
These system were about the size of a master cyl just longer.

Just my 2 penny worth.

T-P Auto
Tim

[skymangs]

That was what we were discussing T-P. By the time you made a bracket to bolt the booster/master, I dont think there would be much room left for exhaust.

[T-P Auto]

skymangs;

Is it going with heaters or stock exhaust?
Is there a possible way to set it forward(likt from the firewall) except drop it inside the frame:

Would it then clear the heater or exhaust?
Just thinking out loud?

T-P Auto
Tim

[steve aleve]

Thanks Skymangs and T-P!! I like the "out loud thinking"... that's when the best ideas happen. T-P, It's custom exhaust for the 5.3 and no heater. I think I can find room for the Hydroboost as long as it's ok that the booster rod is not directly inline with the brake pedal. I was thinking about possibly fabricating up a brake pedal with an arm similar to the stock brake pedal and having the inner end of the arm connect to the booster. Does this make sense? If so, any thoughts on if this will work? Or problems that may arise from this? I am uploading pics right now and I will post them.

[steve aleve]

Here is a picture of the hydroboost close to where I think it may go.



Here is a picture of the stock arm on the brake pedal that I am talking about



And here is a picture of where the brake pedal and arm may go? Above the frame right up against the bottom of the cab.

[T-P Auto]

Steve;

pic #1
Where you have it setting in your pic;
You will have a (very) long rod from pedal to booster.
Pic #3 I see that the frame is "box" at that point. There is not enought room it that point.
Pic #1 What is the chance that you have room between the exhaust pipe n frame at the spot where you "OLD" trans mounted?
Looking at the #3 pic,you are setting (very) close to the frame with your body.
Have you mounted your fenders n radiator suport together on the cab?
You need to ck the fit of the hood to the cab n fenders before you set or weld it solid.
CK out my post(Frankenstine) where I had to raise the front of the cab up 1.5 ' to make the hood fit to the cab.
I just want to make sure that you have the right clearness to make everything fit like it should.
It looks like you have the cab forward as far as possible which is good.

T-P Auto
Tim

[skymangs]

You can make anything work, It just depends on how much time and energy you want to invest. I think your best bet is back where you have it, and run a long rod for the master cylinder. You'll likely have to support it somehow so it doesn't flex or bend during hard braking. The most important thing is going to be to keep those hoses away from the exhaust heat, and I would definitely run a power steering cooler on the low pressure side. On my 49, I used the stock pedal assembly. I welded the two arms together at the pivot, used the clutch pedal as my brake pedal, and used the brake bracket to offset it enough to reach the master cylinder. There are pics and description of how I did it on my build thread.

[Coldshot]

I'm thinking of this same problem down the road. That looks like it'd work good to me. Just make a heat shield incorporated into the mount.

[skymangs]

Pic 2 looks like a good starting point. You may need to offset IOT get the bracket aligned where you need it. Good work my friend!

[steve aleve]

Coldshot, good call on the heat shield!

T-P I think I will brace the rod along the way so that it won't bend hopefully. I will have the fenders, hood and core support on this weekend and that will finalize the cab placement I am just trying to keep an eye on what I have ahead of me. Also, I've been keeping up with your build. Looking great!

Skymangs, I hadn't thought of a PS cooler but I think that's a great idea. especially because of how close I will be running to the exhaust. I'll look at your build again in depth to find the pics of your brake set up thanks!!

[T-P Auto]

Steve;

Just wante to let you know some of the things I had to work out the hard way(try n redo n try again) a little info can go alog ways.
Thanks for the comment on my build.

T-P Auto
Tim

[Garyhenrich]

I have a s10 - 48 Chevy, just getting it back on the road. When you guys are done setting the body on the frame and adjusting the radiator to hold up the front end, is the front of the front fenders the same distance off the ground as the rear part of the front fender? My front is about an inch lower, I'm thinking I may need to move it up a bit. Hood fit seems about the same either way.
Posted via Mobile Device

[skymangs]

The front of the fender should be higher than the rear. I'll do some measuring when I get down to the shop today to verify.

[Coldshot]

Steve have you thought of making a sleeve for the rod to make it stronger? Get a pipe with the thickest wall you can find that will slide over the rod. That should prevent it from flexing I think

[FamilyBowTie]

I got the front sheet metal on the cab using SkyMags mount measurements but I looks high to me. I don't have the drop spindles on yet I am hoping that will bring it down. Thoughts please.

[Sim6]

Originally Posted by FamilyBowTie

I got the front sheet metal on the cab using SkyMags mount measurements but I looks high to me. I don't have the drop spindles on yet I am hoping that will bring it down. Thoughts please.

Is the motor and trans in?

[FamilyBowTie]

Originally Posted by Sim6

Is the motor and trans in?

Motor is but needs to be moved back 4-5 inches, trans is out and will go back in next time I remove the cab.

I got the bed on today but it needs to be dropped 2 inches, I will get a pic tomorrow.

[steve aleve]

That's a good idea. It seems to me that if it is done right, you should be able to mount it pretty far back and still be ok.

[FamilyBowTie]

When mocking up the cab and front sheet metal how much further can the cab be moved forward?

I have my cab at 2.1/8" as instructed but the wheels are too far forward in the front fenders. I would like to move the whole cab/front clip fwd about 1.5-2" to center the wheels. Are there any drawbacks to moving it fwd that much?

[T-P Auto]

Familybowtie;

Do you have your motor set in place:
Then move cab forward till you have1.5 inch of clearness on the dist.
If useing a dist engine.

T-P Auto
Tim

[FamilyBowTie]

Originally Posted by T-P Auto

Familybowtie;

Do you have your motor set in place:
Then move cab forward till you have1.5 inch of clearness on the dist.
If useing a dist engine.

T-P Auto
Tim

Motor (5.7L)is in but needs to be moved back about 4-5". Wanted to see if there was any issues with moving the cab fwd. I haven't cut the front frame horns yet.

[steve aleve]

FamilyBowTie, Do you have any pics of the front wheels in the fenders? I think I am having the same issue but mine may not be as bad as 2" I can't tell. The reason I think this is because of how crowded the front of the tire is to the fender. hmm maybe its just because it's lower than before. Thoughts?

[FamilyBowTie]

Hey Steve,
This morning I measured with a piece of tape across the fender and a plumb bob and it was 1-3/8 to 1.5" fwd of center. I just came in from taking off the cab, grinding the tacks and moving the mounts fwd 1.25".

On 15" tires it looks like yours, not too bad but with 20" it really showed so I ended up just moving the mounts fwd. If I have any issues it should only be the rear end but I plan on a 4 link so I can adjust that pretty easy - I hope.

[T-P Auto]

Familtbowtie;
Have you cked the turn clearness also?
You look very low on your wheels.
I have like a 3.5" clearness from wheel to fender at top of fender.
I'm running 14" wheels.
CK out the "Frankenstine" build.
I also had my cab set 2" above the frame,but had to add 1.5" spacer to front cab mount to ge the fenders n hood to line up.
I was also like 4" back on my cab from the eng dist.

T-P Auto
Tim