47-55.1 The Old Bench Seat

[JDarby]

I am wondering if anyone has come up with a good way of making the old bench seat in these trucks
more comfortable / modern with still maintaining the old frame support?

[dsraven]

strip down to the steel springs, repair as required, cover in uphostery foam of your choice for density, contour the foam to your desired contour, cover that with a thinner less dense foam (spray glue from an upholstery supply place, I use a 3M brand but don't remember the number of it), then cover with your choice of covering. there are also things that can be sewn in to the covering to keep it shaped to the foam contour, like a stock seat in a modern vehicle which uses something like a velcro strip glued into the foam and the corresponding spot of the seat covering. I have also seen a lot of seats from 88-98 chevy trucks used. they have a straight bench from a regular cab or a 60/40 split bench with independent fore to aft adjustment and a fold down arm rest. the head rests come off so the seats will actually not stick up past the back window and will also allow the seats to go back further before they contact the back wall of the cab. if you wanna keep a stock seat base but have a more contoured feel you could find a seat that is the same width and steal the contoured foam from it?
just a thought or two.

[Dan in Pasadena]

My truck is. '55.2 Task Force but I did what you are proposing. I THINK what I did could be made to work for you though I don't have a detailed knowledge of your frame I know it has a perimeter pipe frame where the Task force does not.

I had the frame sandblasted and powder coated gloss black. Removed all the springs (none were broken amazingly!) and replaced them with 5/8" plywood. Then used modern foam shaped to be waay more comfortable. I think it turned out looking great and it is very comfortable.

[JDarby]

Dan, that seat looks great!!!
That is a very doable option!
Did you do your own upholstery?

I think between you and dsraven I can pull this off!
Thanks guys!!

[mr48chev]

Taking it down to the springs and building it back up right with the right fabric over the springs and the right foam over that will make for a great seat that is comfortable for a lot of miles. Bob Russel in Waco did mine in 1973 and it was fantastic but I'd think he probably retired years ago.

[chevyguyase]

I would like to caution on over stuffing your factory seat. My seat was done very nicely by the previous owner, but it is over stuffed and puts your legs and stomach to close to the steering wheel. I don't think a big man could drive my truck. This is assuming you still have the original steering wheel and column.

[JDarby]

This is all great advice, please keep it coming!

I was puzzled about not using the springs, how do I attach the cover?
Do I just staple it to the plywood?

I rather like the idea of both springs and foam, but finding the balance I see as the challenge.

[leegreen]

look at pictures of how newer seats are sprung: wire mesh supported on one end by springs in tension.
Look at '50s truck: coil springs in compression to provide bounce. Aka soften the ride of these old stiffly sprung work trucks

if you want any thickness of foam, look at doing it in the modern fashion.

I think a plywood base would feel stiff to drive on, even with cushy foam on top. It would not flex with bumps

[72Mountaineer]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

My truck is. '55.2 Task Force but I did what you are proposing. I THINK what I did could be made to work for you though I don't have a detailed knowledge of your frame I know it has a perimeter pipe frame where the Task force does not.

I had the frame sandblasted and powder coated gloss black. Removed all the springs (none were broken amazingly!) and replaced them with 5/8" plywood. Then used modern foam shaped to be waay more comfortable. I think it turned out looking great and it is very comfortable.

Hey Dan got a pic of the back/under?

[dsraven]

I agree with LG, don't use plywood if you don't have to. do a trip to the local wrecker and see how the seats from modern vehicles are put together. some have a sheet metal frame where the upholstery attaches and the fabric has a plastic piece that is sort of folded over so it can hook on that sheet metal edge. some have an edge sewn into the fabric like a cording along tyhe edge and then hog rings can be used to slip through that and be attached to a spot on the metal frame that is made to hold the hog ring. if you take a tape measure you could look at some minivan bench seats from an astro van or maybe a rear seat from a yukon or something else that would be the width you need. that would get you a contoured foam cushion and a cover already made. you could grab some springs as well if you find some the right width etc or maybe grab the whole seat and fab a new base to fit your floor. some of the seats will even flip forward.

[dsraven]

if you gotta go plywood there is also composite stuff made that takes a staple. ask at an upholstery shop or a plastic supplyy place. it is used a lot in marine seats because they typically need to be removeable so the upholstery is stapled to the base which sits in the seat frame.

[dsraven]

here is a link on what a hog ring is and how to install
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...UYQ6Fax0Wm-jB7

[dsraven]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...E9CNn4OGpl4TDd

[jweb]

The stock springs are very bouncy. I rebuilt my seat as it should be and I hate it.

Take a look at this build starting on post #648, I think this is the best way to build a seat using the stock frame.
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...popeye&page=26

[e015475]

This is a seat done as suggested in Jweb's post.

The springs were replaced by foam of various densities - it took a couple tries to get it comfortable. The depth of the back foam is about half that of the springs.



This is the seat - not quite done yet. Will probably repaint the seat frame to the same color as the covering.



Another view



The plywood base for the bottom and upright of the seat is covered with the same carpet as the floor and edgebanded in the seat material

[dsraven]

nice job e.
I have thhought about a wire frame of 1/4 or 3/8 round bar supported by short springs to the frame around the perimeter, then wide webbing strung across in a cross pattern before any fabric and foam is laid on top. like an old bed frame from the 50's or 60's. it would have a lot more give in it that a hard surface but would also possibly stretch or pack out easier with a load over time.

[leegreen]

I would not re-invent seat springs, look at a few bench seats. Consider your suspension/ride/roads relative to how seat springs and foam evolved.

Foam over wood might solve a problem with the small size of these cabs. I think you'd find it rode hard on longer trips.

I'd probably start with a 80-90s bench spring set , or even two so you could cut to shape for the old frame and join the sections with hog rings

next you need a thick layer of fabric to stop the springs from cutting into the foam over time, Jute, burlap or some carpet with a woven backing.
then foam of choice shaped as desired

[leegreen]

if you look at a few bench seats in detail you will see that the springs vary across the width of the seat to create a sweet spot under your butt and stiffer to sides and center.

[MARTINSR]

Ohhhhhh I will be watching this thread! Good stuff guys!


Brian

[e015475]

Originally Posted by dsraven

nice job e.
I have thhought about a wire frame of 1/4 or 3/8 round bar supported by short springs to the frame around the perimeter, then wide webbing strung across in a cross pattern before any fabric and foam is laid on top. like an old bed frame from the 50's or 60's. it would have a lot more give in it that a hard surface but would also possibly stretch or pack out easier with a load over time.

At one time I built custom furniture, and we used "no-sag' springs in our upholstered furniture unless a customer was willing to pay for an 8-way hand tie of individual wound springs.

https://lphomefurniture.com/seating-...p-seat-springs

If you were going to do a perimeter frame, I'd recommend that you use the no-sag springs instead of webbing - they are much more reliable/long lasting. We typically put about a 1" think cover of a fairly dense foam over the no-sags and the cushions consisted of a harder foam core wrapped with a softer foam. (feathers and/or memory foam was an upgrade/option)

Just my opinion, but a stack of foam with progressive density/stiffness on a plywood base works well without all the fussyness of springs or webbing. On my truck, I tried several different combinations of thickness and density for both the seat and the back to get to a combination I liked.

[e015475]

"next you need a thick layer of fabric to stop the springs from cutting into the foam over time, Jute, burlap or some carpet with a woven backing."

We used duck canvas stapled to the frame as a membrane between the springs and the foam. I suppose you could hog-ring it to a perimeter metal frame for a truck application

[dsraven]

LG, that wire frame with the coil springs is what I was talking about but my idea went around the whole seat. tried and true is likely better in hindsight

[mr48chev]

I'll agree on one thing, foam over plywood does not make for a good seat for driving any distance as does the wrong foam for the job.

I used plywood and what you would call camper foam in my T bucket back in the 70's and usually only drove it the 23.1 miles to college in Waco and then to work and back with some family running around on weekends and evenings. that 23 miles was about all my tail feathers could handle at one time.

Still just about the most uncomfortable seat I ever drove any distance with is the mid 70's Dodge St Regus (sp?) that I have had in the truck since the mid 90's. That is like sitting on a wood church pew during a long service as far as comfort goes but it looks nice in the truck and my buddy sold it to me for 10 bucks at his wrecking yard.

[jweb]

Originally Posted by e015475

At one time I built custom furniture, and we used "no-sag' springs in our upholstered furniture unless a customer was willing to pay for an 8-way hand tie of individual wound springs.

https://lphomefurniture.com/seating-...p-seat-springs

If you were going to do a perimeter frame, I'd recommend that you use the no-sag springs instead of webbing - they are much more reliable/long lasting. We typically put about a 1" think cover of a fairly dense foam over the no-sags and the cushions consisted of a harder foam core wrapped with a softer foam. (feathers and/or memory foam was an upgrade/option)

Just my opinion, but a stack of foam with progressive density/stiffness on a plywood base works well without all the fussyness of springs or webbing. On my truck, I tried several different combinations of thickness and density for both the seat and the back to get to a combination I liked.

I totally agree with this. I have been doing upholstery over 20 years. There are many foam options and the springs aren’t necessary.

We build aircraft seats that basically just Velcro to the floor, no springs just foam. I have many customers that spend hours in these small planes that really bounce around and no complaints

[MARTINSR]

Yep, this is going to be a BIG project for me. With my truck chopped 3.5 inches and sectioned 2.5 inches the seat has to be pretty close to the floor.

I sectioned the seat frame down that is welded to the floor as much as I could, I think it was only about an inch and a half, something like that.

And yes I shortened the back of the seat so it wouldn't be up in the window.

I saved the seat spring and foam from the back seat of my Caravan, I may be able to use it, pretty thin. But I am going to be trying some of the multi foam layers as discussed here, we will see.

I am not ready for this, it will be quite a while before I dive into that project, lots of body work first. But man oh man this thread has opened my eyes to some ideas, thanks guys.

Brian