New Motor done finally...

[shopking72]

I bought this Motor in May, its the GM Goodwrench 350 with warranty and 290 HP, and it sat on the stand for a while before I got to it. But I kick it in high gear and finally got it done and running. I was making this a budget motor, cause I only drive this truck when I need it, so I used as many parts as I could that I had laying around in my shop and I got a brand new TH350 tranny with shift kit also. Brand new 4 core radiator and Be Cool electric fan. Hedman headers, Demon Carb, MSD Wires, GM HEI Distributor, SuprDampner.

I got a B&M Torg Converter with a 2400 stall, and man it is making this truck a terd, I am going to take it out and put a new stock stall back in it.

Paid $1000 for the whole truck 4 years ago, now I have another one of those the motor is worth more than the whole car/truck.

Some Pics

[novajess1972]

Good looking truck and motor, bro!!!

Whether the motor or the truck costs more, never downrate your truck. She can sense it and will wait for the perfect (most inopportune for you, of course) moment to PISS on you.

Treat her right....Her treat you right

Keep us posted on progress.

Jesse

[piecesparts]

I would ask about your truck's performance and then go with the discussion on the terd part. Along with your 2400 stall, what cam are you using? Since you said it is a GM 350 replacement, then I am guessing that the cam is stock---the stall for that cam would be 1700 RPMs at the most. What SCFM rating is your carb? For a truck weighing in about 3800 to 4000 lbs, you should not go over the rating of 650 SCFM. The smaller carb on a heavier vehicle will keep the air flow up, to enhance mixing. Your gear ratio is the next decision factor, the gears around 3.73 and 4.10 will help the larger carbs flow, due to keeping up the RPMs, but in town it will hurt you, no matter what. If you have a gear ratio of 3.42 or less, then the truck will be doggey. I had a 750 SCFM mounted on my 84 SWB and it slobbered like a pig, but the top end was really great and strong. The shift back to a smaller carb made my daily driving work out and since I have a fairly lopey cam, the 2400 stall works great for me.

I too have an Impala SS sitting in the garage. My son lives in South Wichita area and works for the Haysville school district.

[shopking72]

Originally Posted by piecesparts

I would ask about your truck's performance and then go with the discussion on the terd part. Along with your 2400 stall, what cam are you using? Since you said it is a GM 350 replacement, then I am guessing that the cam is stock---the stall for that cam would be 1700 RPMs at the most. What SCFM rating is your carb? For a truck weighing in about 3800 to 4000 lbs, you should not go over the rating of 650 SCFM. The smaller carb on a heavier vehicle will keep the air flow up, to enhance mixing. Your gear ratio is the next decision factor, the gears around 3.73 and 4.10 will help the larger carbs flow, due to keeping up the RPMs, but in town it will hurt you, no matter what. If you have a gear ratio of 3.42 or less, then the truck will be doggey. I had a 750 SCFM mounted on my 84 SWB and it slobbered like a pig, but the top end was really great and strong. The shift back to a smaller carb made my daily driving work out and since I have a fairly lopey cam, the 2400 stall works great for me.

I too have an Impala SS sitting in the garage. My son lives in South Wichita area and works for the Haysville school district.

Yes all internals on the crate motor are stock. I have a Road Demon 650 carb. I know the gears are stock out back, but are they 3.08?? My top end is ok like you said, but man off the line is horrible, I am changing that converter out this friday night to a stock stall. My old beater motor was faster then my new motor I have in there know, I hope its because of the converter. Thanks for your comments.

Sweet! Check out my local club site sometime


www.wasso.org/forum

[70rs/ss]

Originally Posted by shopking72

Yes all internals on the crate motor are stock. I have a Road Demon 650 carb. I know the gears are stock out back, but are they 3.08?? My top end is ok like you said, but man off the line is horrible, I am changing that converter out this friday night to a stock stall. My old beater motor was faster then my new motor I have in there know, I hope its because of the converter. Thanks for your comments.

I am telling you, putting a stock converter in your truck is going to inntensify the terdiness. You are leaving slow because your parts want high rpm, stock converters stall at like 12-1500 rpm which is going to bog it down more. The real problem is that the stock 290 hp motor has a stock cam, probably 8:1 compression and you threw speed parts at it and nothing works? At most you should have a performer intake (low rise) and a small 500-600 cfm carb. the Demon will be OK if you tune on it, check your timing and for giggles, maybe pop the rear cover to get your gear ratio figured out. I can almost guarentee you if you change the converter it will do nothing to help the performance.

[70rs/ss]

The terd thing has little to do with the stall and everything to do with the cam carb thing. The Demon is a great carb, but not for a stock 290hp 350. It looks great, but the sum of the parts are greater than the total motor, go back and check the cam specs, intake characteristics(functional rpm range usually like 1500-6500rpm) and finally tune the carb. The 2400 stall will help overcome poor gearing, so I'd stick with it and sort out the rest, you have the makings of a nice runner, but get all those parts to work together.

[shopking72]

Well here is the motor I got and the specs on it...

http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/GMPerfor...l.jsp?engine=0


And here is my carb. I have on it now.

http://www.barrygrant.com/demon/default.aspx?page=6

Thanks for the help.

[70rs/ss]

Yeah, I have one question and no I don't think you didn't know this, BUT in order to get the stall, you need to press the brake and the gas to let the motor stall up. Once the rpm comes up (probably 2000-2200) then let off the brake and floor it. that is the way a stall works, and according to the dyno simulator the hp are pitiful at say 1500 (where a stock converter will launch) and better (not drag car spec by any means at like 2200 rpm) so the stall will work for you but not unless you stall it up with the brake and gas, otherwise it is just like a stock converter. I think you just have a stock motor with bolt ons and it isn't going to get better unless you swap the cam. Figure 30% loss through the drive train and your 290 hp motor is a whopping 210hp at the wheels. It is a good stock replacement motor, and if you had a stock cast iron intake, hei, and the demon carb, you'd still have the same output (the intake helps, but only on the top end and it actually hurt on the bottom or low end [that is where the stall will help a little]) se what I am getting at? Not trying to be a bad guy, but you have flat-tpo or dished pistons with 76 cc heads and a bone stock cam, those fancy parts are not going to give you anythin more than the longblock can give you. Add a bigger cam and a set of Vortec heads, then you'll se an improvement, or put a stock intake on it and a q-jet and have a nice stock 350 that'll run forever.

[shopking72]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

Yeah, I have one question and no I don't think you didn't know this, BUT in order to get the stall, you need to press the brake and the gas to let the motor stall up. Once the rpm comes up (probably 2000-2200) then let off the brake and floor it. that is the way a stall works, and according to the dyno simulator the hp are pitiful at say 1500 (where a stock converter will launch) and better (not drag car spec by any means at like 2200 rpm) so the stall will work for you but not unless you stall it up with the brake and gas, otherwise it is just like a stock converter. I think you just have a stock motor with bolt ons and it isn't going to get better unless you swap the cam. Figure 30% loss through the drive train and your 290 hp motor is a whopping 210hp at the wheels. It is a good stock replacement motor, and if you had a stock cast iron intake, hei, and the demon carb, you'd still have the same output (the intake helps, but only on the top end and it actually hurt on the bottom or low end [that is where the stall will help a little]) se what I am getting at? Not trying to be a bad guy, but you have flat-tpo or dished pistons with 76 cc heads and a bone stock cam, those fancy parts are not going to give you anythin more than the longblock can give you. Add a bigger cam and a set of Vortec heads, then you'll se an improvement, or put a stock intake on it and a q-jet and have a nice stock 350 that'll run forever.

Ya, I know how to stall, my 66 Caprice has a B&M Holeshot 3000 in it

I am wondering about the 30% drivetrain loss, its usually 20% I thought. Anyway, I am not going to replace the cam in this motor, it is not a drag truck, just a stock driver with nice new parts. My truck is running great with my Demon on it, I am not going to put a Q jet on it, no thanks. I just had that converter layin around in a box, so I decided to use it in this truck. I guess I have some tuning to do still...

[c10crazy]

Heres the specs. I'm suprised with 8.5:1 and those heads they claim 290 hp. I would think alot less but I'm not an expert. Maybe somebody could dyno it on here. http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/GMPerfor...P&sku=12499529

[70rs/ss]

Originally Posted by shopking72

Ya, I know how to stall, my 66 Caprice has a B&M Holeshot 3000 in it

I am wondering about the 30% drivetrain loss, its usually 20% I thought. Anyway, I am not going to replace the cam in this motor, it is not a drag truck, just a stock driver with nice new parts. My truck is running great with my Demon on it, I am not going to put a Q jet on it, no thanks. I just had that converter layin around in a box, so I decided to use it in this truck. I guess I have some tuning to do still...

Just wondering where your train of thought was headed? If you want stock then stay stock, the nice parts are actually hurting the stock motor and the 30% loss is a guess could be more or less (I am betting the hp is way down [below210] cause the parts aren't well suited for each other). the stall gets the motor into the "power band" if you want to call it that, that motor is a pig untill it hits 2-2500 rpm which that stall will help. 3:73 will help any motor feel fast 4:11's too, so if you want it pull put different gears in there. The Demon is nice, but a q-jet or edelbrock would do better or at least just as good and for less. I have all sorts and manner of car, I am trying to help you sort it out, but you have a ton of stuff that isn't working together (of which a cam would help to wake it up) or you could pull the speed parts off and end up with a nice stock running motor that will be peppy but not fast.

[shopking72]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

Just wondering where your train of thought was headed? If you want stock then stay stock, the nice parts are actually hurting the stock motor and the 30% loss is a guess could be more or less (I am betting the hp is way down [below210] cause the parts aren't well suited for each other). the stall gets the motor into the "power band" if you want to call it that, that motor is a pig untill it hits 2-2500 rpm which that stall will help. 3:73 will help any motor feel fast 4:11's too, so if you want it pull put different gears in there. The Demon is nice, but a q-jet or edelbrock would do better or at least just as good and for less. I have all sorts and manner of car, I am trying to help you sort it out, but you have a ton of stuff that isn't working together (of which a cam would help to wake it up) or you could pull the speed parts off and end up with a nice stock running motor that will be peppy but not fast.

Ok, but I didnt put speed parts on it. My Demon carb is meant for a stock or a lil above stock motor, so is my manifold and everything else. I will never use Edelbrock carbs, they are junk, but everyone has there own opinions on what carbs to use, thats another thread all together. I wanted quality parts that would last and make the motor run good, I guess I made a bad choice of motor...

[shopking72]

And here is the manifold I bought for it.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

And this Dampner.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

I didnt throw any race parts at it as you can see, I wasnt going for a race truck with this motor, just a strong running motor, thats it, nothing fancy.

[piecesparts]

Sounds like everyo0ne has a different thought process. My Son's truck has a 350 crate motor in it (direct replacement). It is a 1986 Chevy SWB with a 700 R4 tranny and 3.73 gears. When we put the replacement motor in, I put a Crane cams in it to get a better power curve. We are running a Performer RPM intake with an Edelbrock 1406 carb on top. The 700 R4 has been rebuilt with heavier duty clutch packs and a Transgo Shift kit. It also has the Corvette shift Governor in it. The response on this motor is great and it is quite driveable, since we put the 3.73 gears behind the tranny. The truck had a set of 3.08 gears in it at the first, when we upgraded to the OD tranny and it was a dog on the street and on the highway, not to mention the lousy gas mileage. My daily driver (91 Silverado) has a 3.42 geared rear end and a 700 R4 with the TBI stock motor, I have gotten it to run at 20 MPG and respond pretty well on the road. I disagree with the discussion about the stock converter, You need to go back to either it or a 1600 stall to get the motor in it's power band and quit wasting power trying to get it up to speed. The 2400 stall is great if you have the power and parts to support. You can build a good daily driver without the stall, my 91 proves it--it doesn't have a high stall converter. Why don't you send me a PM and we will get together and discuss this and Impalas. I met your group at the Automobilia show last fall. You guys were under the train tracks on the streeet. I am the guy with the chamelion flamed out 84 Black truck that was on the corner just West of you. my son's red 86 Chevy was there also.

[72armyswbtruck]

I have the exact same motor and it is more boggy then the stock motor, however as soon as the warranty ends I am going to replace the cam to match up with my edelbrock performer intake and matching 650 carb, I did notice however that when I added the carb, intake, headers and a crossover pipe, it made a big difference in horsepower.