Speed Engineering LS Swap Headers Findings

[1971Stepside]

I put my POL stands in the front holes on the frame.

[62chevy302]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

I put my POL stands in the front holes on the frame.

Wow that looks awesome

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

I put my POL stands in the front holes on the frame.

1971Stepside, can you post a picture or 2 of your drivers side? I ended up sliding the engine all the way back(engine mount sliders) and its better but still just barely is hitting the top of the clamshell mount. Problem is it touches the metal right above the bolt/nut so if I clearance the clamshell then the nylock nut I'm afraid would melt....

[michael bustamante]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

I put my POL stands in the front holes on the frame.

I did the same and used an f body camaro oil pan. the pan barely clears the crossmember but it clears!! header long tubes fit well but the same closeness to the block as the rest of you. no gaskets yet though!

[TA_C10]

Here is what I am talking about. It won't matter if my engine mounts are in the front holes or rear holes, it has to do with the sliders and the clamshell mounts and their location.

I slid my engine back in the adapters as far as it goes(2" sliders) and its just barely hitting the clamshell. I'm just holding the headers up so they aren't perfect but you get the idea. I can't modify the clamshell because the lock-nut is directly below the area the header is touching and i'm afraid the heat will melt the nylon in the nut after a good heat soak. I also want to wrap the headers in heat wrap so I need room to do that too. So I guess I am going to have to clearance the front tube a little to make this work.... I just hate doing this if I didn't have to...

[crakarjax]

I would just clearance the clam shells, just grind slow and should be just fine. if you're worried about the nylon nuts just take them out before you do it.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

I would just clearance the clam shells, just grind slow and should be just fine. if you're worried about the nylon nuts just take them out before you do it.

Actually I'm worried about the header heat when engine running during driving melting the nylon nylocks rather than the grinding process. If I clearance out the clamshell top shelf the header will definitely fit, but it will be about 3/16" away from the top of that nylock nut.

Thoughts? Not sure header wrap will clear 3/16" gap, it will be touching yeah?

[bigmoe]

Don't forget to check clearance from your bell housing as well. I had to trim a bit of my bell where the starter bolts up. Scorpion LS shorties SP16-5077CC.

[hfd410]

Was looking through here and didtnt see my exact combonation of a 71 with a 5.3, speed engineering shorties, CPP mounts and clamshells. I have the multi position dirty dingo plates, not the sliders. Anybody with this combo ?

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Actually I'm worried about the header heat when engine running during driving melting the nylon nylocks rather than the grinding process. If I clearance out the clamshell top shelf the header will definitely fit, but it will be about 3/16" away from the top of that nylock nut.

Thoughts? Not sure header wrap will clear 3/16" gap, it will be touching yeah?

I see what you're saying. What brand sliders are you using?

[bigmoe]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

I see what you're saying. What brand sliders are you using?

My adapter plates were bought off Ebay. No slide but 4 different positions. I used CPP mounts.

[Captainfab]

You could put the bolt in from the other way or just use an all steel lock nut. Fantenal calls them top loc nuts.

[TA_C10]

Boom. Found em. Distorted thread locknut.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dist...thread_locknut

And I also found the Fastenal brand top lock nut.

I will get one of these and replace the nylock nut. I've used these before now that I'm setting them... And as for putting the bolt in the other way that is out of the question as the adapter plates are right up next to the block and these bolts come from the backside so can't switch them like that. I should be able to clearance a small amount of that clamshell top plate and use the top lock nut. Thanks guys, I will report back here and on my build thread when I get this completed.