Has anyone moved ther Battery to the Driver side???

[1970 CST Short Wide]

I want to move my Battery to the Driver side in order to run my Cold air intake away from the upper Radiator Hose I have an LS1 in the truck and upper hose goes to the driver side. I don’t want to be sucking up anything the Battery puts out there for the move. Biggest Question Is if I move it I’ll need a LONG Battery cable, worried about the draw. Any suggestions. Anybody Done this

[MySons68C20]

With properly sized wire it won't be an issue. The trunk mounted batteries in race cars, Dodge Viper etc all use long cables. I don't know the gauge you need but I'm sure that will be simple to figure out with all the smart folks here.
I like your idea for the intake/filter arrangement!!

[1970 CST Short Wide]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

With properly sized wire it won't be an issue. The trunk mounted batteries in race cars, Dodge Viper etc all use long cables. I don't know the gauge you need but I'm sure that will be simple to figure out with all the smart folks here.
I like your idea for the intake/filter arrangement!!

Good info. I didn’t think about battery in the trunk stuff. I know a lot of Racers I can ask about Gauge
Thanks

[Richard]

Picture shows an under hood intake, not cold air? Zero gains if it is on the left or right side. As the previous post said, just use proper sized wire. There is a passenger side auxiliary battery tray that came in the trucks. A dual crossflow LS swap rad has the inlet and outlet on the passenger side. Maybe another option to consider? What will be costs and effort for each situation? Running intake tube close to other heat items is really no problem IMO if the air is introduced from outside the engine compartment. Air is moving to fast to realize a heat gain.

[Richard]

A picture of my intake mock up from my build thread. Filter will be a bit lower and enclosed in a box that will draw air from the front of the core support. A cold air intake. If I left it as is, does not matter where filter is in engine compartment. Hot under hood air, no different than what you have. Just saying unless the effort you are putting in actually provides outside air it will provide no gain. If you want the change for visual purposes there are no problems with it.

[hewittca]

I contemplated moving my battery to the driver's side with my LS swap. I couldn't find a driver's side battery mount. There's a thread on here showing how to modify the original, but in the end I opted to move it to the passenger side framerail behind the cab. I didn't want the extra weight on the driver's side and thought it would be good to clean up the engine bay by just getting it out of there entirely. I used 4ga wire run under the cab along the framerail and that has been more than sufficient. I also used a C10 LS swap radiator from Cold Case that has both hose connections on the passenger side. This let me run my intake to the driver's side. I used a universal intake kick, so it could have been run to the passenger side if I was using a stock radiator.

[special-K]

Sure. GM offered the dual battery option, so either side works fine. Gauge I don't believe needs to be any bigger than stock

[1970 CST Short Wide]

Originally Posted by Richard

Picture shows an under hood intake, not cold air? Zero gains if it is on the left or right side. As the previous post said, just use proper sized wire. There is a passenger side auxiliary battery tray that came in the trucks. A dual crossflow LS swap rad has the inlet and outlet on the passenger side. Maybe another option to consider? What will be costs and effort for each situation? Running intake tube close to other heat items is really no problem IMO if the air is introduced from outside the engine compartment. Air is moving to fast to realize a heat gain.

Picture is just for reference, it’s what I want to get away from. My Original BB 4 core radiator (which I just had rebuilt) has the top hose going to the driver and I don’t want to follow the hose. I have the driver battery holder and by moving it frees up a lot of room on the passenger side to build a Cold Air intake away from hot hoses. My biggest worry was Draw on the battery due to the long cable I need to run.
Thanks for the input and pictures

[LS short box]

Cable wise if you use something like -1 welding cable you will be fine.
If you really want to clean things up move the battery to the frame rail. On my 68 I mounted it to the right frame rail right behind the cab.
Couple of pics of the 68 with a generic Afco LS swap radiator.
Pic of my 73 Z28 with a non LS Afco radiator. Shows the intake routing.

[Tom]

I've moved the battery to the bed, I've put dual batteries in. Its all about the wiring. I bought giant like 2 gauge wire and made all my own cables including grounding straps for the chassis.

[IIGW]

Originally Posted by 1970 CST Short Wide

Any suggestions. Anybody Done this

thousands of poeple have done this over the years.
Every race car built has done this, most any vehcile the sits ont he ground has had theyr battery relocated.

find a spot to put your battery, side of frame rail works really nice, i like using 1 or 2 gauge wire. one to ground, the other to the starter.

Plenty of how tos all over the google box.

Both of my s10s have relocated batteries.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by 1970 CST Short Wide

Picture is just for reference, it’s what I want to get away from. My Original BB 4 core radiator (which I just had rebuilt) has the top hose going to the driver and I don’t want to follow the hose. I have the driver battery holder and by moving it frees up a lot of room on the passenger side to build a Cold Air intake away from hot hoses. My biggest worry was Draw on the battery due to the long cable I need to run.
Thanks for the input and pictures

Nice to hear my input was welcomed. Makes more sense to me now what you want to do. We all have personal choices. As I said previously IMO, a proper closed cold air intake close to heat sources is not really an issue. As far as the electrical, just use a 2-4 gage fine stranded wire with appropriate insulation and you will be fine with any amp draws unless you have added a lot of accessories and have an alternator over 100 amps. Wish you well in getting it like you want.
Richard

[WorldsCrappiestTruck]

I used the GM part number 20970916 frame mounted battery box, to mount it like several others on the passenger side rear frame rail behind the cab.

I used 1/0 cable from the battery to the starter, and 6GA to feed a distribution block. From there a fused 6GA goes to the alternator and a fused 10GA runs to the American Autowire fuse panel.

Since it was all running along the frame, I bought some various sizes heat shrink in 48” lengths from DigiKey and heat-shrinked the entire length of every cable, for a 2nd layer of wear protection, in addition to using those stainless sheet metal style c-clamps to hold everything in place - aside from accessibility to the battery, I like the clean setup, and it’s one less thing under the hood.

[special-K]

By reading these replies it seems as if no one read or understood the question. He didn't ask, "Where is a good place to relocate my battery", or "Can I relocate my battery?". He's asking if anyone has moved their battery to the driver side. GM did it, in a way, by offering the dual battery option. The factory mounted a battery on the driver side. Just get rid of the passengers side mount and there you have it. My '72 GMC K2500 has a passenger side battery mount made by the P.O. for a home made dual battery set-up, w/isolator.

[1970 CST Short Wide]

Originally Posted by special-K

By reading these replies it seems as if no one read or understood the question. He didn't ask, "Where is a good place to relocate my battery", or "Can I relocate my battery?". He's asking if anyone has moved their battery to the driver side. GM did it, in a way, by offering the dual battery option. The factory mounted a battery on the driver side. Just get rid of the passengers side mount and there you have it. My '72 GMC K2500 has a passenger side battery mount made by the P.O. for a home made dual battery set-up, w/isolator.

Thank you. I found and bought a drive side battery box. Now it’s just a matter of wiring
Thank you All for the input