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Old 07-07-2020, 11:07 AM   #1
smbrouss70
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Looks good! I wish I could fit an X-pipe on a Blazer.
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Old 07-07-2020, 11:30 AM   #2
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Originally Posted by smbrouss70 View Post
Looks good! I wish I could fit an X-pipe on a Blazer.
I think we can make it happen, I have a few ideas on how
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Old 08-06-2020, 05:19 PM   #3
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Looks good! I wish I could fit an X-pipe on a Blazer.
I dont see anywhere i can put one one mine. Any recommendations??
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Old 08-09-2020, 10:12 AM   #4
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Good for you!

Not to stir the pot, but the sideways X-pipe isn't going to be an issue. It'll still flow out like it should, but not as efficiently, so it won't make as much power as the "normal" direction would.

Think about it this way.... if you take 2 garden hoses and blow them full blast into an X-pipe the "normal" way, it'll flow as intended. Do the same with the X turned 90 degrees and it'll still flow, although not quite as efficiently. It's still going to flow the right direction because of the pressure of the exhaust gasses coming from the headers.
Yeah, I could see the possibility of that. It sounds really nice, and it fits, which is good enough for me right now. I may just have to make up for all of these intake and exhaust inefficiencies with more cubic inches
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I dont see anywhere i can put one one mine. Any recommendations??
Above the intake and through the hood!
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Old 08-09-2020, 07:20 PM   #5
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Minor catch-up: a few weeks back smbrouss70 (Steven) and 65StreetCruiser (Kevin) stopped by to help me get the AAW chassis wiring harness installed. Good news; it’s worth the money and fits beautifully. Bad news is wiring harnesses are not exactly photo worthy, but here’s an in-progress pic, the voltage regulator cover I used on the firewall bulkhead, and an example of the braided split loom we used on everything.
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Old 08-09-2020, 07:31 PM   #6
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Also got the Dakota Digital RTX gauges and the Detroit Speed delay-type windshield wiper setup (that Steven and Kevin somehow convinced my wife that I needed, thanks ) installed. Whole bunch of stuff behind the gauges now, kept relatively orderly by the Dead End Garage bracket. Also managed to get the stock wiper control knob to work with the DSE switch, so no one is the wiser. Stock, but not. Perfect. I’m really liking this view from the driver’s seat
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Old 08-11-2020, 10:56 PM   #7
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by gringoloco View Post
Minor catch-up: a few weeks back smbrouss70 (Steven) and 65StreetCruiser (Kevin) stopped by to help me get the AAW chassis wiring harness installed. Good news; it’s worth the money and fits beautifully. Bad news is wiring harnesses are not exactly photo worthy, but here’s an in-progress pic, the voltage regulator cover I used on the firewall bulkhead, and an example of the braided split loom we used on everything.
What did the voltage regulator cover come off of?
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Old 07-07-2020, 11:34 AM   #8
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

I'll drive it to your house and we can crawl underneath and discuss. I'd love to hear your ideas.
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Old 07-07-2020, 11:52 AM   #9
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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I'll drive it to your house and we can crawl underneath and discuss. I'd love to hear your ideas.
How much room between the trans x-member and the trailing arm x-member? This one is 12.5” long, probably 7-8” wide: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jex-sxp4

I think one of these “sideways” and four mandrel 90s and we’re in business.
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Old 07-07-2020, 11:59 AM   #10
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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How much room between the trans x-member and the trailing arm x-member? This one is 12.5” long, probably 7-8” wide: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jex-sxp4

I think one of these “sideways” and four mandrel 90s and we’re in business.
Now look at this x-pipe picture above compared to yours. This one would work sideways as you can see the angles of the pipe work no matter which way you turn it. Your X however isn't angled like this. It's not "universal" to angle/direction...

Then again, i'm no expert, i could be wrong

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Old 07-07-2020, 12:07 PM   #11
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Now look at this x-pipe picture above compared to yours. This one would work sideways as you can see the angles of the pipe work no matter which way you turn it. Your X however isn't angled like this. It's not "universal" to angle/direction...

Then again, i'm no expert, i could be wrong

.
Me either, dunno. I’m just hoping it will help smooth out some of the glasspacky-ness of the Magnaflows. If it sounds like a can of bees, then I’ll have to re-think it
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Old 07-07-2020, 12:10 PM   #12
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Me either, dunno. I’m just hoping it will help smooth out some of the glasspacky-ness of the Magnaflows. If it sounds like a can of bees, then I’ll have to re-think it
I didn't mean to go on and on about it.... I may have had too much coffee this morning. I will be interested to hear it/see how it turns out. Mainly because I did an H pipe for reasons of clearance issues and would love to find out sideways works. I would change my configuration if so.

Keep up the good work gringo.

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Old 07-07-2020, 11:42 AM   #13
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Oh shoot man, I remember that post now. So it was YOU!!! lol. That gave me that idea. We have the same crossmember. I shoulda coulda woulda.

Yeah it's those angles that concern me. I realize the actual X is a wide open chamber, but the air/gases moving along the pipe bends coming into the X will be angled toward the opposing side instead of into the X like normal. So essentially the left and right banks will be angled "against" each other(like a head on collision), more violently than if they were angled parallel "with" each other. I think of those wind tunnels they build to test aerodynamics of cars, or I think of porting and polishing heads and gasket matching ports to create a smoother flow of air.

I don't want to say this "isn't" going to work, my brain is just having a hard time imagining it will work efficiently is all. I see turbulance in your future

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Old 07-14-2020, 07:07 PM   #14
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

That's the same mufflers that B.O.B. has on it. I think they'll sound good on there.

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Old 07-15-2020, 07:13 AM   #15
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

I had Borlas on my 83 and they sounded really good.
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Old 07-15-2020, 10:00 AM   #16
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Great work. Ive heard Borla exhaust before on a cousins 2019 silverado with the 5.3. It sounds pretty good.
Thanks, and good to know. I’m a little concerned, but no going back now
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That's the same mufflers that B.O.B. has on it. I think they'll sound good on there.

Are you ready to be invaded?
Definitely! We may not get this turd driving, but at least we can drink beers and talk trucks.

I do like Bob’s tone, but a big Ford will sound different than my little Chevy. I looked at venom 250s, but they’re just so loud. (I think I just got old)
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I had Borlas on my 83 and they sounded really good.
Thanks for the input. I’m still torn, but if they get rid of the glasspack-sounding “clap” that the Magnaflows had, I’ll be happy
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Old 07-15-2020, 10:41 AM   #17
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

This = glasspack-sounding “clap” = is what I don't like about these.... I'm an old Flowmaster guy, deep and mean sounding... Nascar is cool don't get me wrong, but unless you have 900+ horse and it's setup to race, it doesn't sound right to me on the street, just obnoxious... And this is me, getting old...

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Old 07-17-2020, 10:45 AM   #18
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Exhaust is “done”.
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Old 08-06-2020, 05:04 PM   #19
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Good for you!

Not to stir the pot, but the sideways X-pipe isn't going to be an issue. It'll still flow out like it should, but not as efficiently, so it won't make as much power as the "normal" direction would.

Think about it this way.... if you take 2 garden hoses and blow them full blast into an X-pipe the "normal" way, it'll flow as intended. Do the same with the X turned 90 degrees and it'll still flow, although not quite as efficiently. It's still going to flow the right direction because of the pressure of the exhaust gasses coming from the headers.
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Old 08-10-2020, 08:38 AM   #20
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Everything looks killer Chris! I love the voltage regulator cover idea and really clean wiring, I need to call you and get the details.
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Old 08-10-2020, 10:29 AM   #21
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Chris,

Great progress on the truck. Did you use a direct replacement harness or a universal harness from AAW? Also, I really like your steering wheel. I have seen a number of versions of this wheel by different manufacturers. Who's wheel is that and where did you get it?
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Old 08-10-2020, 11:26 AM   #22
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Everything looks killer Chris! I love the voltage regulator cover idea and really clean wiring, I need to calm you and get the details.
Thanks Keith. No worries, give me a shout. I think we struck a decent balance between affordable and done ‘right’. The braided split loom and harness tape both came from amazon.
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Chris,

Great progress on the truck. Did you use a direct replacement harness or a universal harness from AAW? Also, I really like your steering wheel. I have seen a number of versions of this wheel by different manufacturers. Who's wheel is that and where did you get it?
Thanks Karl. The harness is an AAW 510089 67-72 specific kit. Although due to my extensive modifications, much of it was deleted, the kit is VERY nice, VERY complete, and easy to install. Highly recommended. Get a nice set of crimpers before you start (we learned the hard way).

The wheel came from eBay seller drclassicauto. It is very nice quality and came with everything needed, including the correct size hub. The only thing I have had to do is take a small file to the sharp edges on the center section, otherwise very happy with it.
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Old 08-10-2020, 01:22 PM   #23
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Originally Posted by gringoloco View Post
...Thanks Karl. The harness is an AAW 510089 67-72 specific kit. Although due to my extensive modifications, much of it was deleted, the kit is VERY nice, VERY complete, and easy to install. Highly recommended. Get a nice set of crimpers before you start (we learned the hard way).

The wheel came from eBay seller drclassicauto. It is very nice quality and came with everything needed, including the correct size hub. The only thing I have had to do is take a small file to the sharp edges on the center section, otherwise very happy with it.
Thanks for the info. I am just starting a rewire of an '80 C10, the owner brought me a #510008 Universal Harness from AAW to install. So far I like the kit and how all the wires are labeled.
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Old 08-10-2020, 02:07 PM   #24
smbrouss70
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

You can't blame us for the wipers! She came out as soon as you went to the store and started asking about the wipers that Kevin and I were talking about. I just made sure she went to the correct website and ordered the correct ones... and made sure she used the free shipping code that I found.

It all looks really good. I assume you had to determinate the block on the firewall to pass the wiring through your voltage regulator cover, huh? I see that you did replace the screws with buttonhead screws that hold the fuse block to the firewall, looks much better now.

I didn't get a chance to work on the Blazer this weekend, so my wipers still haven't been installed yet, but I think I will be using the stock knob like you did.

Also, my LED tails should be delivered today after seeing yours. See, it works both ways.
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Last edited by smbrouss70; 08-10-2020 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 08-10-2020, 03:54 PM   #25
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by smbrouss70 View Post
You can't blame us for the wipers! She came out as soon as you went to the store and started asking about the wipers that Kevin and I were talking about. I just made sure she went to the correct website and ordered the correct ones... and made sure she used the free shipping code that I found.

It all looks really good. I assume you had to determinate the block on the firewall to pass the wiring through your voltage regulator cover, huh? I see that you did replace the screws with buttonhead screws that hold the fuse block to the firewall, looks much better now.

I didn't get a chance to work on the Blazer this weekend, so my wipers still haven't been installed yet, but I think I will be using the stock knob like you did.

Also, my LED tails should be delivered today after seeing yours. See, it works both ways.:lol:
It seems you've got a few more bucks to spend in order to equal that purchase-price range of the DSE package. It's funny reading though. I just printed off the install instructions on Saturday to get a feel for the motors mounting footprint in order to see if they'd work on a g-body.
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