95-98 dash crack? Repair or replace?

[wancosc356]

Would you repair or replace this crack in the dash?

If repair, how so?

If replace, can I just replace that "section" or is it the entire dash that has to be replaced? Either way, how hard is it gonna be?

Might just have to find a dash mat for the time being.

[scotts62]

Mine was cracked in the same spot from a thief.. i was going to fiberglass it and paint it just because that panel is really expensive new unless you can find a good used one cheap.

[BIGphillip79]

Doesn't look too bad, I would just get one of those custom fit dash covers.

[wancosc356]

Originally Posted by scotts62

Mine was cracked in the same spot from a thief.. i was going to fiberglass it and paint it just because that panel is really expensive new unless you can find a good used one cheap.

Yeah. I wouldn't buy a new one. I would look for a used one. So that panel is removable without having to remove the entire dash?

Originally Posted by BIGphillip79

Doesn't look too bad, I would just get one of those custom fit dash covers.

Yeah. Its not terrible. Ill get a dash mat either way.

[1badgmc]

Originally Posted by wancosc356

So that panel is removable without having to remove the entire dash?

That crack is on the main dash piece. The whole thing would have to come out to replace that. I haven't pulled a late-OBS dash, but I did pull and replace the dash in my '91. That was NOT a fun job by any stretch of the imagination!

[ChevLoRay]

I'm thinking that Just Dashes would be a good resource, but they don't offer a cover for the 95-98's. It may be because the dash change in '95 and again in '97. So, there may be something to the idea of using fiberglass to skim the original, and then paint it. It's gotta be cheaper than going for an OEM dash pad that may be just as brittle.

I guess our trucks are in that cusp of years that the aftermarket hasn't decided to accomodate in a total manner. Some stuff is out there, but not all.

[wancosc356]

Originally Posted by 1badgmc

That crack is on the main dash piece. The whole thing would have to come out to replace that. I haven't pulled a late-OBS dash, but I did pull and replace the dash in my '91. That was NOT a fun job by any stretch of the imagination!

Thats what I thought. Haha. Super glue or duct tape??? I can live with a small crack...for now.

Originally Posted by ChevLoRay

I'm thinking that Just Dashes would be a good resource, but they don't offer a cover for the 95-98's. It may be because the dash change in '95 and again in '97. So, there may be something to the idea of using fiberglass to skim the original, and then paint it. It's gotta be cheaper than going for an OEM dash pad that may be just as brittle.

I guess our trucks are in that cusp of years that the aftermarket hasn't decided to accomodate in a total manner. Some stuff is out there, but not all.

I didn't know the dashes changed again in 97. Thanks for the tip. May look into the fiberglass deal.

[1badgmc]

Originally Posted by wancosc356

Thats what I thought. Haha. Super glue or duct tape??? I can live with a small crack...for now.

Thought so.

I didn't know the dashes changed again in 97. Thanks for the tip. May look into the fiberglass deal.

You have the '88-'94 dashes that are the same throughout aside from different gauge clusters and radios, but all the actual dash pieces are the same. In '95 you got the updated interiors. That dash lasted for 2 years; '95 and '96. In '97 the trucks got passenger side airbags, so the dash got reworked on the passenger side of the bezel.

[wancosc356]

Oh I see. Thanks!

[bwood]

Mines cracked from just below that all the way to the VIN panel and throughout the defroster vent. Last time I checked, the new dash was $1k unpainted from the dealer.

[wancosc356]

Originally Posted by bwood

Mines cracked from just below that all the way to the VIN panel and throughout the defroster vent. Last time I checked, the new dash was $1k unpainted from the dealer.

Ouch! This is what my conversation with the parts guy would have looked like...

Haha. That is just nuts!

[bwood]

There is a wrecking yard near by that ended up with a bunch of clunker trucks. I'm going to see if I can find a better one?

[Hoods69BadBowTie]

I would just put a dash mat on it and call it good! I am sure that a whole new dash will be insanely expensive to say the least.

[bwood]

I would, except it is feels loose and makes noise going down the road.

[1971gmcshortbed]

It will be difficult to find a used good one. If they aren't careful taking it out it can break, old = brittle. I would leave it alone. It comes out with the bulkhead/harness, the harness that goes into the engine. About 8 hours worth.

[Rimshot1911]

I would put some super glue under the crack and then once it dried use a heat gun/hair drier and the color should come back. Solves the ugly hole and the color won't change too much. Just my .02 worth.

[wancosc356]

Thanks fellas. Dash mat it is! Anyone got an extra laying around?

[BigBlocksRule]

Pull the gauge/control surround piece, that'll give you better access to that area. It might help to pull the gauge cluster for better access. Get some sort of small clamp - something with decent width jaws that will allow you to clamp directly across the crack, I've used Stanley Quick Clamps. JB Chemweld dries to almost the same color as your dash. Mix it up and make sure you get some in the crack, may have to use a toothpick. Smash it together as much as you can with your fingers, then wipe off the excess that runs out of the crack on top. Clamp it - use wax paper to keep it from sticking to the clamp - and let it set overnight. When you pull the clamp off, mix up a little more and apply it across the crack on the underside to give it a little more strength.
Done, costs less than $10 and you won't have to mess with the nightmare of removing and replacing that dash. Believe me, that's something you don't want to mess with if you can avoid it.
I know a guy who busted a connecting rod in his numbers matching 454 in his Chevelle. It knocked a clean chunk of metal out about the size of a 50-cent piece. He had everything cleaned, then JB Chemwelded the piece back in place. It's been at least 10 years since he did this and it's still running 11's.

[wancosc356]

Thanks for the advice BigBlocksRule.


Well my dash is the 95/96 style, but.....
I found a guy selling a 97/98 style dash in very nice shape and the same grey color to boot. Includes gauge cluster, radio, heater controls and passenger air bag. He also has a steering column with the steering wheel with the airbag too.

So my questions are:
What it is all worth, so I can know what to offer?
And will it mount right in place of 95/96 dash? If so, can I hook up the airbags easily or should I even bother? Looking for experience and suggestions here.

[BigBlocksRule]

I bought two, gave $200 for each in excellent condition. That included all the surrounds, etc. that snap in place along with the glove box door. The one I patched with JB is still fine, these are for project trucks with dashes wrecked beyond repair.

[Jeepwm69]

Anyone have a tutorial on replacing a dash?

Just picked up a 95 with one tiny crack to replace Dad's pretty busted up dash.

The one I bought came complete with passenger side ducts, and metal supports underneath. Guessing this isn't going to be an easy job.........

[special-K]

My suburban came with that crack shown in the original post. It was a sheriff's K-9 unit and when they remoo..., more like tore their equipment out they left carnage behind. I have a nice used surround but think I'll just glue the main dash. It's just a driver anyway. But when I press the crack together it's barely visible.

Good luck with your project. Sorry can't help on the tutorial

[Mr_Rich]

There is a two-part epoxy made especially for repairing plastic. I've had very good luck with repairing plastic parts. Saved me $$.

[Just call me Sean]

This stuff?

[Mr_Rich]

Originally Posted by Just call me Sean

This stuff?

Yes. Give it a try. I was able to repair the plastic brackets that retain the rear bumper cover on my gf's Scion. Those brackets cost over $50 each. It's been over a year and still holding. What you might want to do is glue a piece of plastic on the back part of the crack and clamp it until the glue sets. You will have a strong repair.