86 Suburban daily driver

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

One 'watch-out'…. Burbs/Blazers are known for issues when c-notching. If you notch it, I would verify there's the same amount of travel available above the different as well. Otherwise, you'll clear @ the axle tube but still hit @ the floor.

Cool family ride for the record!

Thanks! The whole family is on board with it, as soon as I get a few things fixed (including A/C).

Thanks for the heads-up, and I'm already on it! I already measured the space between the top of the diff and the floor, and used that as my measurement as to how deep the notch reasonably should be. I want to cut as little as necessary because hooking up a trailer is still important to me.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

Thanks! The whole family is on board with it, as soon as I get a few things fixed (including A/C).

Thanks for the heads-up, and I'm already on it! I already measured the space between the top of the diff and the floor, and used that as my measurement as to how deep the notch reasonably should be. I want to cut as little as necessary because hooking up a trailer is still important to me.

I highly recommend 'over-doing' the c-notch if planning to tow. A simple bolt-in raised floor allows for better frame rail height above the notch & ample pumpkin clearance (win/win). It doesn't have to steal too-much interior compartment space. Even raised just 2" allows for a superior ('safer' since you're a family guy) set-up & wouldn't be that noticeable.

[BlueJeep]

I scored a lightly used Holley transmission crossmember over the weekend. My exhaust (on the passenger side) is the lowest point on the truck, so that will make it nice to tuck that up when I get around to installing it!

[BlueJeep]

Was able to get some more work done on the suburban over the weekend. Put in a new window to replace the one I broke. I picked up some steel for the notch, now just need time to get that in the works. I did get my phone up underneath to snap some pictures for those who wonder if you can do an axle flip on a suburban without a notch....without it, you have a cool inch between the axle and the frame....which isn't enough.

I'm also in the planning stages of deciding how I'm going to make new shock mounts that allow for longer shocks. Need to improve the ride on this thing and these things are what it will take!

[BlueJeep]

I also spent some time with a buffer. Now, I don't really know what I'm doing when it comes to buffing...and it shows. I used too much compound on the first fender and not enough elsewhere, so I really need to go over the whole thing again but I didn't feel like it after round 1, so that'll be another day. Significant improvements though from what I did do! Constructive criticism is welcomed here....

[BlueJeep]

And lastly I've cleaned up some wiring. I have no idea what possessed the last stereo installer to do what they did, but it's fixed now. I have a confession, I *never* use butt connectors. I showed the Suburban to a friend last week, who noticed the butt connectors and commented that he couldn't believe I would even drive it like that! Ha, so I had to fix it!

The power wire to the radio was 36" long, had four butt connectors (both red and blue ones), and the wire was wrapped around the radio fuse and pushed in the slot. Oh man! They completely bypassed the original radio wire that already ran to that fuse and was right there.

The radio is back in and working properly now. I will come back and make an 18 gauge plate to replace the plastic one in the radio install kit, and I will also clean up the hole in the dash that was chopped in there before installing my nicer bezel.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I highly recommend 'over-doing' the c-notch if planning to tow. A simple bolt-in raised floor allows for better frame rail height above the notch & ample pumpkin clearance (win/win). It doesn't have to steal too-much interior compartment space. Even raised just 2" allows for a superior ('safer' since you're a family guy) set-up & wouldn't be that noticeable.

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

Thanks! The whole family is on board with it, as soon as I get a few things fixed (including A/C).

Thanks for the heads-up, and I'm already on it! I already measured the space between the top of the diff and the floor, and used that as my measurement as to how deep the notch reasonably should be. I want to cut as little as necessary because hooking up a trailer is still important to me.

Here's an image of a shop built notch. Not much clearance gained for the work but it is what it is. I bet if you extended the plating on both sides of the frame to where it's just below the floor (box the inside of the rail & plate the outside portion), you gain strength & could go ~3" into the rail. wouldn't have to cap the top off making it an easier install (as long as it doesn't trap moisture).

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Here's an image of a shop built notch. Not much clearance gained for the work but it is what it is. I bet if you extended the plating on both sides of the frame to where it's just below the floor (box the inside of the rail & plate the outside portion), you gain strength & could go ~3" into the rail. wouldn't have to cap the top off making it an easier install (as long as it doesn't trap moisture).

Thanks for the picture! Is that a blazer by chance? Mine doesn't have the crossmember right above he notch like that one. I will box the inside for sure, and I was also thinking of running it higher and filling in some of the gap between the frame and the floor.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

Thanks for the picture! Is that a blazer by chance? Mine doesn't have the crossmember right above he notch like that one. I will box the inside for sure, and I was also thinking of running it higher and filling in some of the gap between the frame and the floor.

Yes. It's a Blazer.

I would make the plates as tall as will fit. The strength is in their height. Capping them will add some rigidity but the main thing would be the height & doing it to both sides (like an I-beam).