C20 to K20 Conversion "Simply Toxic"

[72 tigger]

Looks like a very nice truck- following along

[Azathoth]

Just looking at your pictures and some others from the web, it doesn't look like you moved the height of the front spring mount much if any, just lowered the rear. Could you have flipped your rear mount or done something to raise it closer to it's original position in relation to the front so you wouldn't get the big lift in the rear? Or maybe have gotten custom springs to keep the ride height in the back the same? I'm interested in doing something similar and would like to keep the IFS without a crazy lift.

[JustToxic]

I actually didn't touch the leaf spring mounts at all. The rear mounts are still riveted in place, the front spring mount has bolts in it but that is only due to connecting the frame back in the location. This is completely doable with being able to keep the IFS, I have enough room to raise the leaf spring mounts up on the frame so everything sits lower.

My main reason for not wanting to keep the IFS is I have a 2002 2500HD with a lift on it and I love the truck just hate the torsion bar set up. I like the way parallel 4-link handles and performs off-road and on-road.

In short tho, there are other guys doing this swap and keeping IFS, mine is a personal preference for getting rid of it. If your interested in doing this swap and wanting to know more info of what you'll need or anything else feel free to message me. Hope I didn't ramble on too long.

[Azathoth]

No, I don't think there's too much rambling when it comes to talking about suspension. My truck right now is a straight leaf spring set up (83SWB, not what I'll be converting) and I'm looking for a better ride and handling characteristics, so I'd like to try IFS. I have a long commute and it beats me up quite a bit. I know I'll never get a ride like my BMW, but I'd like something closer to an 80's Datsun at least. I have no experience with torsion bar suspension, so I'm learning. What about a 4 link in the rear?
I understand you didn't move the aft mount on the frame, but by taking all the rise out of the frame you lowered it's position relative to the fwd mount. You lowered the piece of frame it is mounted too.

[JustToxic]

If your using the truck mainly as a daily driver I'd just do a frame swap from a Avalanche or Tahoe, those frames are straighter then the trucks and you can find some with a factory air ride, so your end result would be a smoother ride overall. There are a few guys on here that have don't the swap, just look it up in the search. If mine was more of a daily driver I would have done that swap. 4 Link in the rear wouldn't be too bad, if you have air ride or a good coil over set up, there are a few companies out there making them.

[JustToxic]

Well in the last few weeks I came across some good finds. Picked up a set of OE West Coast Mirrors off of a '68 C30, besides some surface rust they are solid and almost ready to bolt on. Then this past weekend made a trip south and picked up a slightly used long bed bed floor.

[JustToxic]

Here's a picture of the bed floor I picked up from brandX over the weekend. It now has a coat of primer on it.

[JustToxic]

Well, while I'm waiting for the engine for my step dads truck to get back from the machine shop. I've been itching to get back to mine as I have parts stacking up for it now.

Don't hate me but this 4-Runner came into work the other day (I'm a Parts Manager at a Toyota Dealership) and I'm thinking I've fallen in love with this blue, It looks great with Satin Black and Red. I'm pretty sure this will be the color of the truck once the bodywork is complete.

[JustToxic]

Well, I'm finally back on this thing. Got the step dads LS swap out of the garage after it being there way too long. On to building the cab mounts for this girl, after doing enough math to make my head smoke, took the cab off the frame and started fabbing up the mounts. Looks like the rear mount falls to just the inside of the frame rail, and the front cab mount falls dead center of the frame rail. On the rear I'm going to build a small pocket that will accept the mount, give enough room for the Energy Suspension poly mounts. On the front I'm going to be notching the frame and adding some reinforcements so I don't loose any strength. I'll make sure I keep track with pictures to show the process.

[El Dorado Jim]

sub'd

[72 tigger]

Making progress. How bad is the cab?

[JustToxic]

It's not too bad, most of the stuff that needs replaced, there are new available. There are only a few pieces that I'm going to have to make. Like the top of the door jam, is rusted out on the driver side. And the top of the windshield area has a few pin holes from the seam leaking. After I get done with the body mounts on the frame I'm going to test fit the cab and move on to metal work on it.

[JustToxic]

Spent some time last week and got the body mounts started. Still have to clean up some of the top holes with the de-burr bit. I'm going to do a little more filler welding to the front mounts, so I can grind the welds down and make it look smooth. Going to do the same on the frame seam right there to. I like having the smooth frame look, even if it means more welding and grinding. Hopefully finish up the rear mount supports this week, time permitting.

[JustToxic]

Got the rear mounts burned in right before I ran out of welding gas. Started the grinding process to smooth everything over. While doing so the handle on the grinder came loose and swung around and got me.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice build and great work on it! Nice work on those cab mounts. I have a 72 gmc cab that is on a 03 half ton burb chassis and the guy put the front cab mount bolt straight through the frame. It works, but IDK if I'll complete the project or separate it.

[JustToxic]

Thanks Dieselwrencher, I did a good bit or research on how the cabs fit the frames before hand. Came up with something that looked better then some of the ones I saw. If I was to this frame swap again I think I would have picked a burb or a avalanche frame to start with.

[JustToxic]

Worked out in the garage almost all day Saturday tearing the cab apart. Found a bit more rust, so I need to order a few more pieces before I can start going back together. I want to thank 72_tigger for helping with the cab last weekend. Not going to explain all the rust, I'll let the pictures do the talking.

[JustToxic]

A few more pictures of the rust.

[landarts]

Nice job on the cab mounts and I really like your rotisserie the cab is on. That will really help in repairing the rust on the cab. Nice job!

[JustToxic]

Thanks landarts, glad I took someones offer on letting me use the rotisserie, its made life way easier.

[JustToxic]

Figured after two days of working on the cab I'd have more done. I got the new driver side floor welded in and the cab corner started. Still have to do everything to the passenger side.

[72 tigger]

Making good progress- always surprising how much thin metal you find when you dig into it

[JustToxic]

Yeah, the more I vibrate the cab taking the driver side apart, the more I see I need to replace on the passenger side. Just ordered a floor board for the passenger side, it looks like Swiss cheese since I took the rocker off.

[JustToxic]

Forgot to post the floor pan pictures the other day. Got the rocker and cab corner lined up last night. Need to take the outer rocker back off to finish the inner rocker. Give everything a final grind, then time to move on to the passenger side.

[landarts]

Floor patch looks great, keep up the good work on bringing it back to life.