283 Cylinder Head Decision

[cwcarpenter98]

Frankentruck is letting out a fairly large cloud of smoke on initial startup, but stops smoking fairly quickly. It's been happening for a bit, but seems to have gotten a lot worse after sitting parked for a couple months.

I've got 3 options, and I'm not sure exactly which one to go with. Please give your opinion on which might be a good choice to make.

Option 1: Replace the valve seals on the current head. I think it's an 8.5:1 CR head. Not sure if it has hardened exhaust seats or not, but the casting number is 3814480. It has a regular rectangle on the front.

Option 2: Use the set of Power Pack heads that I have on my other 283. I know they don't have hardened exhaust seats, and I'm sure they need to be refreshed, so I was thinking about taking them to a machine shop to get all the work done before swapping them on to the block in the truck.

Option 3: Buy new heads, but I have no clue where to even start with that.


Future goals engine wise is to eventually rebuild the 64-65 283 that I had pulled out of the truck. I'd like to have a good bit of torque in the 1500 to 3000 rpm range since this truck isn't a race truck and I do plan on occasionally towing trailers.
I'd also like to keep running 87 pump gas if possible since I enjoy driving my truck but don't enjoy higher gas prices.

I wasn't planning on doing the engine build now since the current block still has nice crosshatching and still seems healthy.

So, what would y'all recommend?

[Rick Bollinger]

You may want to consider smaller aluminum head. I put the edelbrock e street heads on a mild 383 build and it pulls 404hp and 465 torque. I wouldn't think that you would need anything more on a mild 283.

[cwcarpenter98]

Originally Posted by Rick Bollinger

You may want to consider smaller aluminum head. I put the edelbrock e street heads on a mild 383 build and it pulls 404hp and 465 torque. I wouldn't think that you would need anything more on a mild 283.

If money was no object, I'd definitely be considering a set of aluminum, but at the moment, I won't be starting my full time job until August of next year. Finishing up with grad school in the spring.

One day I'll have a truck with a hot 283 that has all the goodies

[MySons68C20]

Sounds like new seals should solve the oil leakdown problem with your valve stems.
Have you done a compression test lately?

[geezer#99]

I’d do option 1.
Easiest to do. Cheapest too.
Your heads are listed here.



https://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm

[cwcarpenter98]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

Sounds like new seals should solve the oil leakdown problem with your valve stems.
Have you done a compression test lately?

I haven't done a compression test at all I don't own a tester, so that'll probably be on my Christmas list for this year.

The engine in the truck has been in for over 3 years now. I bought it from a friend that swapped to a 350, but I had seen the truck driving around before he pulled it, so I was not concerned about the true condition of it at the time of purchase. It has treated me well, but I don't know the true history beyond the 3 years of ownership from my friend and 3 years from me.

There was still plenty of crosshatching in the bores when I swapped it in.


The other thing about the valve seals is we don't have shop air currently, and I really don't want to pay someone to do it, so I'm pretty much stuck with pulling the heads anyways. I'm not worried about that since I'm assuming it's a stock 283 inside

[geezer#99]

Quarter inch nylon rope threaded into the chamber works well. Put the piston at the bottom, thread in the rope, bring the piston up and the valves won’t move for the seal installation.
Tape the end of the rope first.

[cwcarpenter98]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Quarter inch nylon rope threaded into the chamber works well. Put the piston at the bottom, thread in the rope, bring the piston up and the valves won’t move for the seal installation.
Tape the end of the rope first.

I've never heard of that. Thank you!!

[AcampoDave]

When it comes to heads, What's good for the 350 isn't necessarily good for the 283. This is a good article https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/...58cc%20chamber. I have a great results using the heads from the high output 305. Mine have a part # ending in 416 and there was another one from the 305's that was a good one too (ending in 601 I think). A good google search on "305 heads on a 283" will net you lots of reading. Bear in mind however, 305 heads were a light casting and have been known to crack when overheated. I feel they are worthwhile but one needs to take the care and time to have them checked out before installing them. Mine are rebuilt by my local machine shop and they got a good ol' port and polish job while they were there too. A street mannered 283 is never going to keep up with the "big boys " but they can be a peppy and efficient old school motor.

[cwcarpenter98]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

When it comes to heads, What's good for the 350 isn't necessarily good for the 283. This is a good article https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/...58cc%20chamber. I have a great results using the heads from the high output 305. Mine have a part # ending in 416 and there was another one from the 305's that was a good one too (ending in 601 I think). A good google search on "305 heads on a 283" will net you lots of reading. Bear in mind however, 305 heads were a light casting and have been known to crack when overheated. I feel they are worthwhile but one needs to take the care and time to have them checked out before installing them. Mine are rebuilt by my local mchine shop and they got a good ol' port and polish job while they were there too.

That is a good article, thank you.

I'm leaning more towards option one for the sake of time, money, and stress on my back trying to pull the heads with the engine still in the truck. I do like the idea of a better head, but that will probably end up being saved for when I rebuild the other 283 that I have while I can still drive the truck with the 283 that's in it now.


Another related question: Is there a specific type of valve seal that is better than any others?
Any valve spring tool out there that y'all recommend? This doesn't seem like the right time to whack it with a hammer

[AcampoDave]

I usually try to take advantage of the "loaners" at my local auto parts store for tools I'll rarely use. Might be worth a try.

[AussieinNC]

If it was my truck I would be going with option 2....service a known good set of heads and install....

Reasons:

Yes the seals will need doing...but

The valve guides are most likely worn beyond tolerance and contribute to the oil leak down, causing the smoke on startup.

The valve stems may even have some wear present.

The valve springs should be replaced, stock ones will work fine and installed heights should be checked on installation.

You can take time to save up for the work, as the truck seems to be drivable albeit with some smoke...

Just my 2 cents worth....

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

What about 95+ Vortec heads.

Do either of the 350 or 305 versions work on a 283?

[burnin oil]

305 vortecs are nothing like the 350s. They do have 58cc chambers supposedly.

If this were my truck I would just do the valve seals on the truck. A decent parts guy should be able to get you the ford umbrella seals that fit a SBC. Pop off what's left of the old oring seal and slide umbrella on. Easy day. This should be under $20 since last time I bought them for under $10. I really like the cheap valve spring tool that is in the help section. It is essentially a flat bar with a slight bend at one end. The whole thing goes on the rocker stud and works like a giant rocker arm. Only catch is it takes space that you may not have at the back of the motor.

I wouldn't waste any money on rebuilding a set of heads before checking for after markets. There used to be a company, I think iron eagle, that sold decent quality new heads pretty cheap. If I was going to rebuild a set of heads I would look for the 305HO castings already discussed. Talk to a machine shop because you may not want to spend the cash they want these days.

[cwcarpenter98]

Thank you for the suggestions guys.

Vortec heads, although better, are not in the consideration for the sole purpose that I want to run the Chevrolet script valve covers, or a set of Corvette valve covers if I feel like being ~fancy~


I currently have a stock, 68 quadrajet intake manifold on it now, so probably going to stick with that intake for awhile.

Also, I only have my basic hand tools here at college. Any special stuff I might need is back at home. Frankentruck is my daily driver currently and the Dakota is back at home. Without a backup vehicle, I'm just going to let the mosquito fogger keep working until after this semester

AussieinNC,
Yes, the truck drives great right now. Leaks a little oil, but that's my doing on poor attempts at sealing everything up and not replacing the rear main seal when I put the engine in since it had been replaced by the previous owner

Burnin_oil,
Thank you for the suggestion on the seals, I'll look into that if I decide to do it with the heads on the engine

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Dart made Iron eagles as a cheaper alternative to there aluminum offerings or for racing which spec'd iron heads. They are excellent, and compare to comparable offerings.

World Prodicts had good quality iron heads cheaper, but not with a small enough chamber for a 283.

[Tom]

Originally Posted by burnin oil

305 vortecs are nothing like the 350s.

Explain.
They are the same ports.

[Accelo]

The valve guides are most likely worn beyond tolerance and contribute to the oil leak down, causing the smoke on startup. The valve stems may even have some wear present.

I have rebuilt my 283 and was amazed in the poor shape of the valve stems. They were .005 to .007 undersized.
The old engines relied on the lead for lubrication. Newer metallurgy has solved the issues.
I rebuild the old head. Because of the worn stems I replaced the valves. I was amazed as I could put a flat spot on the valves with a file. The new valves a file just skidded across. They have a coating of satellite on the OD. I knew the old girl wasn't going to get driven a lot so I didn't install hardened seats. Been over 15 years, since I completed the rebuild, without an issue. I would consider using a stock metal gasket as it will keep from lowering the compression by .1 point.
Not much of a difference but you need all you can get with the stock compression level being so low.
Cheers.

[Warrens69GMC]

Originally Posted by Tom

Explain.
They are the same ports.

305 Vortec Heads vs 350 Vortec Heads (Flow Data)...

[cwcarpenter98]

Originally Posted by Accelo

I have rebuilt my 283 and was amazed in the poor shape of the valve stems. They were .005 to .007 undersized.
The old engines relied on the lead for lubrication. Newer metallurgy has solved the issues.
I rebuild the old head. Because of the worn stems I replaced the valves. I was amazed as I could put a flat spot on the valves with a file. The new valves a file just skidded across. They have a coating of satellite on the OD. I knew the old girl wasn't going to get driven a lot so I didn't install hardened seats. Been over 15 years, since I completed the rebuild, without an issue. I would consider using a stock metal gasket as it will keep from lowering the compression by .1 point.
Not much of a difference but you need all you can get with the stock compression level being so low.
Cheers.

I wouldn't be surprised if that's part of the problem. I haven't been running a lead additive since I put the engine in the truck over 3 years ago. I don't know if the engine was fully rebuilt before the previous owner got it or not.

I've been busy with classes and work stuff, so I haven't had a chance to dig deeper into the problem yet. If not this weekend, probably some time next week

[cwcarpenter98]

Huge thank you to one of the forum members who sent me an early Christmas present of a compression tester!

I was able to sneak in a compression test today before it got dark out.

Engine was cold, all plugs removed, 3 different screwdrivers used to hold the throttle blades and air dams open on the Quadrajet.

Highest reading was 145, lowest was 135. The average was 140. That seems good to me, but what do y'all think?

Also, all of the plugs looked about the same. The past couple weeks have been short drives in the cold which is probably why it looks a little rich, but I could probably do some more fine tuning at some point. The plug on the right is the darkest one. That one came from cylinder 1

I'm just glad there doesn't seem to be anything majorly wrong internally at the moment

[geezer#99]

I think you’re using the wrong plugs.
Instead of the tapered seat type you should have ones like in this link.


https://www.corvettecentral.com/c3-6...r43-set-302026

[cadillac_al]

Good info here. Get those wrong plugs sorted out and the Ford valve seals burnin oil mentioned is cheap and easy.

[cwcarpenter98]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

I think you’re using the wrong plugs.
Instead of the tapered seat type you should have ones like in this link.


https://www.corvettecentral.com/c3-6...r43-set-302026

Well dang, I didn't realize that. I thought it was a tapered hole, but it's pretty obvious now that the taper on those plugs really isn't sealing against anything. Would I have an issue with running plugs that are designed for a points system in my truck that has an HEI?

The truck has run great for the past 3 years with those plugs in it though and made a 3 hour drive from Milledgeville to Savannah today

The 283 I pulled out of the truck has a set of plugs similar to the ones in the link you posted

Originally Posted by cadillac_al

Good info here. Get those wrong plugs sorted out and the Ford valve seals burnin oil mentioned is cheap and easy.

The rope trick (since I don't have shop air) and the Ford valve seals will be the ticket. That way I can push off building the other 283 I have for the truck to when I have more tinkering time and money to spend on it

[geezer#99]

Your plugs won’t know the difference between points and hei.
Justgap the new ones to .045 for the hei.