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Old 05-05-2002, 12:40 PM   #1
racedvl
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Question Gravity bleeding.......

I'm in the process of trying to gravity bleed my rear brakes. Is there a way to make them bleed faster? I have had the bleeder open for about half an hour now. Still no brake fluid. What gives?

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Old 05-05-2002, 12:45 PM   #2
Longhorn Man
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lots and lots of air.

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Old 05-05-2002, 01:31 PM   #3
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push the pedal i bet youll get some fluid,why not bleed them the standard method.
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Old 05-05-2002, 02:00 PM   #4
Longhorn Man
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Hmmm, just a guess...the old lady don't wanna help.

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'69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man
I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it.
FINALLY got the HORNIAC...a '70 one ton Longhorn with a Pontiac 350/350 and lots of 'personality'. Check out The Longhorn Webite.
If you need a pic posted, E-mail me at longhornmail@yahoo.com
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Old 05-05-2002, 02:07 PM   #5
barn9
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I had the same problem a couple of weeks ago. I ended up calling a friend and had him come over and help me do a standard bleed. My right rear was the only one that gravity bled, and it still had some air in it I discovered when my helper was pumping the brake pedal.

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Old 05-05-2002, 03:21 PM   #6
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I always like to figure out how to do this stuff alone. How about using a vacuum source into the top of a container and have a second fitting which hooks up to the bleeder screw. They make those hand pumps but that would be a real pain. I'm going to use either engine vacuum as a source or I have a venturi vacuum pump I got from harbor freight for $12. You hook it up to compressed air and it will draw 28.5" of vacuum. Anyone tried something like this for brake bleeding.

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Old 05-05-2002, 03:25 PM   #7
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the handpumps work good, one person, ust make sure you fillthe resivorr you'll be at it a long time... Bryce

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Old 05-05-2002, 03:30 PM   #8
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go buy a plastic container with a sealed lid.put the brake fluid in the container.put a small hose around the bleeder nipple on the wheel cylinders or calipers.cut a hole just big enough for the hose to go through the lid.leavew the bleeders open make sure the hose is sank all the way in the brake fluid so it cant suck any air.just do one wheel at a time and it should work just fine.also u can buy bleeder screws that have a one way valve that will only let air and fluid out but no air back in so u can bleed the system on ur own

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Old 05-05-2002, 03:41 PM   #9
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ddsmith, i did this a few years ago. Don't use a plastic container as it will cilapse.
I used a pickle jar and put nipple fittings on it. Ran a real long hoes to the carb, and a 2 foot or so hose from the jar to the bleeded. (use clear tubing...like for a fish tank air line)
I loved it.
It busted in the move here from Tx.

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'69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man
I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it.
FINALLY got the HORNIAC...a '70 one ton Longhorn with a Pontiac 350/350 and lots of 'personality'. Check out The Longhorn Webite.
If you need a pic posted, E-mail me at longhornmail@yahoo.com
Andy, in Columbus Ohio


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Old 05-05-2002, 05:09 PM   #10
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OK, this is the deal. There was NO pedal! So I was hoping a gravity bleed would help get me a pedal. I had jacked up the front of the truck, and slowly started to get brake fulid out of the bleeders. Cool. And just at that time, my father in law shows up. So we try to standard bleed them, with no luck. So we loosened the line at the bottom of the porporating valve. No fuild comes out. So started to pump the pedal with it loose and started to get some air out. And some really crappy looking fuild as well. Low and behold, start getting a pedal! So we standard bleed the rear, ALOT and I can only get a half pedal out of it. I think I need to bleed the fronts now, but don't wanna because I'm gonna have to replace the wheel cylinders, and most likly the hoses as well. And if all goes well I won't have to replace the steel lines as well. So I can move it around now, but I don't like the brakes. I wounder if I messed up my new master cylinder at all. When the rear brake hose went, and the pedal dropped, do you think I couldda messed up the master. Even if it's new?

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Old 05-05-2002, 09:09 PM   #11
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TTT

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Old 05-05-2002, 10:49 PM   #12
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Lightbulb

The vacum pumps work good.You can also do it backwards.Get a pump oil can.Get a piece of hose that will fit on the nozzel and the bleeder.Pump the air out of the can,hook it up to the bleeder,pump it up till you get presure,crack open the bleeder,start pumping the fluid back to the master cyl. DON'T EMPTY THE CAN.Keep it full. Do it till it starts flling up the master cyl.They might be a little sponge but it will get most of the air out.This works to fill the new brake lines before you hook both ends up.Then if you hve to bleed them it's alot easier.I just did the panel like that and they work good.Did you bleed the master before you put it on?If not,you need too. Hope this helps. Roy
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Old 05-06-2002, 10:33 AM   #13
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yah, definitely bleed the master cylinder first...
bleed the brakes in order...
back right, back left, front passenger, front driver side...
i got a one man bleeding kit fot about 5 bucks from kragen...
basically plastic bottle with nipple on top and a magnet on it...
hook it via some tubing to the bleeder nipple...
using the magnet attach the bottle to the frame above the level of the brake...
jump in the cab and pump the peddle til there's fluid in the bottle...
cake, now i don't have to ask the old lady to pump the brakes...
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Old 05-06-2002, 08:19 PM   #14
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I did bleed the master first. My problems happend after the master was installed.

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Old 05-07-2002, 10:27 PM   #15
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Anyone interested in a cheap pressure bleed setup? Check out Car Craft this month. They take a 1/4" steel plate cut a bit larger than the master cylinder, drill a hole in it and tap it with pipe threads so a air fitting can be attached. They attach a 1/8" thick piece of rubber sheet with weatherstrip adhesive after punching a hole in it to line up with the air fitting. Then they fill the master cylinder place the plate gasket side down on the master cylinder and c-clamp it in place. Set their air regulator for 10# and apply air for short periods. They recommend 30 seconds. The only real hard part is to keep the master cylinder full which would require removing the plate to top it of while your bleeding. I think I'll make one of these and test it out. It would be great to have one of these.

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Old 05-08-2002, 09:07 PM   #16
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Thumbs up

Now that's a neat idea!!

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Old 05-09-2002, 07:13 PM   #17
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Just made the one they talked about in Car Craft. I was having a problem with the brakes on the 79. I hooked it up to the master cylinder and pressed it up to ten pounds. I found my problem. Rear brake line coming off the frame rail was leaking. It sprayed a nice stream requiring no guess work. I love this gadget.

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