faux-tina paint jobs

[LostMy65]

[LostMy65]

[LostMy65]

[LostMy65]

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[LostMy65]

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[rickywideglide]

used dupilcolor paint shop paint for white and black base under satin jade rattle can before and after

[Rusty one]

Originally Posted by rickywideglide

used dupilcolor paint shop paint for white and black base under satin jade rattle can before and afterAttachment 1901969

Attachment 1901970

Not bad..

Started on my door to get an idea. Not sure if I'll keep this color or not.

[coolfool_2]

Heres my 61 i just completed the patina look for the second time as i learned some things since i painted it 2 years ago and wanted to try them out. First laid down a brown base layer. Then sprinkled a bunch of table salt and rock salt onto that layer, wetted the truck down to stick the salt to the base and let it all dry. Then sprayed my green over the brown and salt. Once dried, started wet sanding to produce the final result. Looks great and cheap to do. Both trucks are painted with Krylon rattle can paint.

I will post before and after of my 64 Burb as well in the next post.

[coolfool_2]

My 64 burb using the same techniques i described above.

[LostMy65]

I'm not sure if I posted this already, but I saw this some time ago and thought this might be cool to do with two contrasting colors. Put down one color, then a thin coat of a different color. Then, while the second color is still wet, throw some leaves on it. Later pressure wash off the leaves. Maybe corny... But might also be an interesting effect.

[forestb]

Now we are getting artsy

[LostMy65]

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[sstock]

All that work, you could lay down some nice paint, call me weird, I just don't get this craze. Maybe it is because I'm old guy now in my 60s.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by sstock

All that work, you could lay down some nice paint, call me weird, I just don't get this craze. Maybe it is because I'm old guy now in my 60s.

I see it from both sides. I know several classic car/truck guys that have said their nice paint job makes them nervous/worried about every scratch or ding. Keeping it old looking allows for them to just jump in and take it anywhere, and use it as a truck.
My 65 has maybe $100 in paint. And most importantly, it's how I want/like it - scratches, dings, and all. I'd prefer a natural truck over a restore, but we either buy a natural, or spend the money on a restore.
I personally don't get spending money for a full on restore. Oh yes, I admire, but unless I got money spilling out of my pockets.... I can't justify it for myself.
Natural would be my first choice. The work and money for nice paint makes no sense to me if I'm going to use it as a truck.

[kensblue64]

Originally Posted by sstock

All that work, you could lay down some nice paint, call me weird, I just don't get this craze. Maybe it is because I'm old guy now in my 60s.

I'm going to do 6 things to my 64 Project, before I spend a penny on paint & body work

1) Make it safe
2) Make it fast
3) Nicely detailed engine compartment
4) Custom 20" wheels & tires
5) Killer completely restored custom interior
6) Make it fun to drive (power disc brakes- power steering)

I'll enjoy it now, and when I want to make it pretty, I'll do it then.

By the way, I'm 69 years old.

[sstock]

Originally Posted by kensblue64

I'm going to do 6 things to my 64 Project, before I spend a penny on paint & body work

1) Make it safe
2) Make it fast
3) Nicely detailed engine compartment
4) Custom 20" wheels & tires
5) Killer completely restored custom interior
6) Make it fun to drive (power disc brakes- power steering)

I'll enjoy it now, and when I want to make it pretty, I'll do it then.

By the way, I'm 69 years old.

I totally get that Ken, it is just spending lots of time and money to spray in a patina paint job

[kensblue64]

Originally Posted by sstock

I totally get that Ken, it is just spending lots of time and money to spray in a patina paint job

I plan to patina my entire truck for $50.00 to $75.00.

I will be able to complete the entire job in about 8-10 hours, outside, on a nice sunny day.

My friend & I completed a patina job on his 48 Ford truck, and it is simple, and looks authentic.

My truck looks nice about 15 feet away, but most of the panels, fenders, box, and tailgate are have a lot of bondo, from previous owner. They look presentable, but require a lot of work, before spending any money on proper paint.

I plan to drive the truck this coming season ( I live in the Northeast PA)
so the season runs from mid April thru mid October.

Then I will order new boxsides, front bed panel, wheel housings, and tailgate.
If I have any money left, I'll order a new hood, and new fenders, as well.

I don't weld or do body work, so I figure that with the high price of labor, it will be cheaper to order rust-free repro panels, than have them done in a body shop.

The piece in the pics is a glove box, from a 48 Ford truck.

It took about 2 minutes to do, and cost about 25 cents to faux patina.

My friends truck looks Old School patina, and he has no plans to change it, it really looks good.

The last pic is how my truck looks right now.

[UK62LW]

Originally Posted by kensblue64

The piece in the pics is a glove box, from a 48 Ford truck.

It took about 2 minutes to do, and cost about 25 cents to faux patina.

Wow, nice job! Please share your technique..!?

[sstock]

Originally Posted by kensblue64

I plan to patina my entire truck for $50.00 to $75.00.

I will be able to complete the entire job in about 8-10 hours, outside, on a nice sunny day.

My friend & I completed a patina job on his 48 Ford truck, and it is simple, and looks authentic.

My truck looks nice about 15 feet away, but most of the panels, fenders, box, and tailgate are have a lot of bondo, from previous owner. They look presentable, but require a lot of work, before spending any money on proper paint.

I plan to drive the truck this coming season ( I live in the Northeast PA)
so the season runs from mid April thru mid October.

Then I will order new boxsides, front bed panel, wheel housings, and tailgate.
If I have any money left, I'll order a new hood, and new fenders, as well.

I don't weld or do body work, so I figure that with the high price of labor, it will be cheaper to order rust-free repro panels, than have them done in a body shop.

The piece in the pics is a glove box, from a 48 Ford truck.

It took about 2 minutes to do, and cost about 25 cents to faux patina.

My friends truck looks Old School patina, and he has no plans to change it, it really looks good.

The last pic is how my truck looks right now.

Very interesting Ken, please keep us up to date when you do this.
Subscribing.
Steve

[forestb]

I think we are having some communication problems. This a fake patina thread and I think "Sstock" is talking about spending a hole bunch of money on making your ruck look old not leaving it in its original faded paint. I think LostMy65 and Kensblue64 are talking about leaving in its faded old paint state. There are a lot of people on this tread posting real patina paint instead of faux patina paint.

[LostMy65]

Yeah, I see some who go to a lot of work to fake patina. Again, it's their taste.
And, although that may take a lot of work and cost some money, I can still see a possible practicality in it. In that all future scratches and dings aren't going to ruin a beautiful paint job.
For me, I had to do something cheap because metal was exposed. Brakes and Steering were #1 on my list. Then I moved onto reliability. I'm actually glad I didn't dig into the body. I haven't had time to work on it for years, but it's safe.
I'm working with what I have with the money I have.

[forestb]

do you have a photo of your friends ford?

[60chevyjim]

the glove box looks great , I tried to find this color local , but I ended up getting it on ebay. I plan on using it on my 65 c10 rat ,and my chopped top 50 f car
the 65 is spray canned satin green with zero prep . it was black with horrible paint and bodywork when I got it. i put the rusty hood on it.

[richards72chevy]

FB_IMG_1580324927589.jpg

[cgster]

A lot of good faux-tina paint jobs on this thread. Are any of you applying any kind of clear coat afterwards?